noahrexion

dolphinguy - what sort of place are you looking for? What is "too" expensive? How long are you thinking of staying? I'm from Longmont and I know a few around there. Otherwise I can only really recommend places that would require a bit of offroading. There is also a Camping World on I-25 just north of the Highway 66 junction (barely north of Longmont, headed towards Loveland). Supplies and information can be had there.

Actually now that I've stared at your super-sized version of the last photo - it looks as if the aluminum roof bends over the fiberglass siding: is this the case? Do you have any other photos of this? Can you explain briefly how the layering goes (ie: siding, aluminum, butyl tape, trim piece, screws, vinyl aesthetic piece...etc)? I'd hate to put everything back together after a repair and still have a leak !

What did you use to hold the fiberglass sheet back onto the foam board (or OSB)? I guess I'm not totally sure how your cab over is now layered. Also, did you happen to take any pictures of the paneling disassembly? I think I'm going to be resealing all my exterior paneling this winter and have yet to find anyone with pics/instructions on how to properly take apart/seal the aluminum roof: side areas yet. Thanks so much for sharing these pictures, I was wondering if you were going to just use plywood after I saw you post in John's thread. Nice to see other options!

You were both correct, for the record! I hadn't, at that point, checked my coach voltage for about a week. Indeed I had about 60% or so charge and once plugged in/charged back to 80%+ the furnace is working as it should. Just wanted to follow up for reference.

I wish your writing was a bit more legible; sentence structure would go a long way. Are you saying the the buddy units vent inside? You had headaches from monoxide? I'm interested in replacing mine with something newer/more efficient as well.

3travellers, Shoot me a pm. I will be driving through California (south to north) in about 1.5-2 weeks with my 86 dolphin. I can show you around the Toyota RV if you have interest. Austin

Heater was working great about the last week. I can only think the auto pilot is not working as the fan still runs and I've plenty of propane. Anyone replace the pilot? Is it accessible through the inside cover? John, any insight? I couldn't find anywhere to access this pilot.

Sorry this one is a little bit off topic, but do you guys know of a solid (whether cheap or expensive) tank gauge? Have a link? I have a tiny little 1" or so gauge that seems to consistently read a a little low. We had about 9 days of use on our 20lb tank (5 gallon) and when our gauge read about 1/8 of a tank I brought it to get filled. Low and behold, the guys puts in 2.1 gallons to fill it. Obviously I had about 1/2 a tank but my gauge reads low. It sure would be nice to have a 30lb tank in there for those chilly nights and furnace usage. Although I store my jacks in the same compartment as my 20lb tank since there is so much more room.

Brent, My wife and I just moved from that area about 2 weeks ago. We are leaving the west coast for the east coast and will be driving through later (about 10-12 days from now). We would be happy to show you around it if you still need. Austin

Gerry, Are those harbor freight gauges you used? How do you like them? Color match the oem green at all?

So little did I know that there are two valves inside the electrical cord access panel, behind the water heater. When I pulled out the cord I opened one of the valves fully. I closed it and solved the mystery. Just in case folks were wondering. I suppose these are drain valves for the water heater that act as another drain point to help winterize.

Fantastic John, thanks for the ID. Have you any idea where I may be able to close them? I hadn't known of any valve(s) to open/close or area where I can get to in order to change O rings.

Have put about 1700 miles on my 86' Dolphin (rear dinette) in the last 2 weeks - been outstanding! I am settled at a family residence now, charging and cleaning. I filled my fresh tank, turned on the water pump and the pump would NOT stop running. Generally this has been when the tank gets low and the pump cannot prime as it pulls air in. This is not the case now. I heard water draining from the outside and I went underneath and took this picture of 2 hoses coming out of the floor. I do not know what they are but they do look as if they're underneath the water heater. Perhaps they are overflow lines for the water heater? When I turn on the pump water just spews out of the line(s) non-stop and the pump runs and runs. I cannot find any leaks anywhere else. This is an "all of a sudden" type of problem that did not come on gradually. Everything has been working great until this happened (with the water pump that is). Can anyone help me ID these water lines and perhaps help me ID the possible source of my problem with my description thus far? I didn't pinch the output line from the pump (yet) to see if it is an external priming issue since the obvious running water from these line(s) is a priority issue first. I have a feeling that waterever these lines are associated with is where my attention shall need to be directed. Thanks you outstanding toy'ers in advance! Austin

Dolphinite - what floor plan do you have? Please document, as nice as watier does if possible, your project! Oh and your condensate - since its a window unit and designed to "hang out" - may very well not have a hose/line but instead either 1) accumulate and flow off of the corner of the behind-end or 2) not have one at all and have self evaporating technology (as many new ones do)

PIsta, My wife and I are planning at least 3 months of living in our 86' Dolphin that we just bought. For reference sake, it was tough finding the right one and (un?)fortunately we decided to go the fixer upper route. We have a 50lb heeler and a 24lb son that is as rambunctious as they come - and we're excited We're relocating from Colorado to Oregon and I looked EVERYWHERE! We were looking at units from $4000 - 10,000 and I will say that if you have the capability to do repairs yourself, you have the time and energy then you may be able to score a deal. Otherwise I would generally agree with everyone else; buy the best you can period. I think you'll get used to any floor plan, any model...etc I really wish I was able to find a manual transmission, this is my first automatic. I've a mechanic by trade and have had no issues going through my entire rig the last 5 weeks. It is exhausting, but I've come to know this thing really well and we haven't even slept in it yet! Tons of great help and great people on this board, as well as the yahoo group. It is very worth looking (physically) at a few more before you make a decision. Be sure to run everything, try everything, get on the roof, drive it, plug it in, check for leaks, ask for records, bring a multimeter, have the owner fill up the tanks (water and propane), run the fridge...etc Jam your nose in the cushions and smell for smoke, put pressure all over the inside windows (especially the cab over) to check for soft spots...etc We got a great deal on ours (monetarily) and have had a frustrating love affair fixing it up. We're about ready to roll this punk LONG distance and sure hope our family of 4 does well. If you have any reason you'd like to come up to Colorado to look at a few I know of a VERY nice gentleman (2 actually) selling units - one is a 89' Warrior V6 for around $7k (very worth it) and another is a 87' Dolphin for around $8k (though I suspect if its still available the owner would easily come to $7.5 or 7k). Both were well cared for units that I inspected/drove myself. Best of luck to you and your family unit. Austin