WME

OK Lets try 1/4" birch plywood for overlayment. For full redo use 3/4" birch ply. Big box store again

Its for the Mad Max supercharger clutch

1 hose, 1 tire. Plan B.https://www.amazon.com/Jili-Online-Pieces-Extension-Extender/dp/B071WW54R4/ref=sr_1_7?ie=UTF8&qid=1532644043&sr=8-7&keywords=dual+rear+tire+valve+extensions..

Bang for the Bucks is Reflectix from any of the big box home stores. Remove seats and old carpet. Cut the Reflectix to fit floor, use 2 layers on driver side because of exhaust heat also 2x on the transmission hump because of heat, run it up the foot wells as far as the carpet will allow.. Reinstall carpet and seats. Just use a screw driver to poke holes in the stuff for the seat bolts. P.S. It looks like chrome plated bubble wrap.

Typically a 22r will warp the head if severely overheated, the average small town machine shop answer is to plane/mill the head to make it straight, this is NOT the correct procedure. Again a small town shop will take 7-10 days (+shop back log) to machine/rebuild a short block. The warranty (if any) is in that town period. The engine your getting has a nation wide warranty. Your basically stuck with the lesser of many evils, good luck

The rear brake valve reacts to the ride height, it does not adjust ride height. The valve is for an Toyota pick not a motor home. When a pickup is empty the rear is up, so the valve sends most of the brake force to the front. When its loaded the rear end sags because of the weight, so the valve sends more force to the rear because there is more traction. Using air bags on a MH totaly messes up the valve. Rasing the rear with the air bags makes the valve think its got an empty pickup so it sends more force to the brakes. The simple answer is to remove the force arm from the rear axle and just bolt it to the frame in the up position, this will give you max rear brakes. works because you have duals (more traction) and a bunch of weight (more traction)

Not a lot of joy, but even a "good" used car will cost you $300-500 to make it right. Thats just life in the fast lane.

The recall was not against Toyota, it was against the RV mfgs. Most of the mfgs are out of business, so your on your own. Sunrader is among those.

ATK engines, Grand Prairie TX.. They maybe part of LKQ. Jasper Engines, Jasper IN These are a couple of the larger rebuilders. Jasper can do semi custom engines, I don't know delivery time for special engines

The axle looks good. Goggle the net and find out how read the tire dates.

Very long winded, but read ALL of this and you will find your answer...http://toyotamotorhome.org/forums/index.php?/topic/4321-brakes-load-sensing-proportional-valve-lspv-and-lspbv/ Basic problem is the brake basis valve is for an empty pickup truck. at best a Toy MH is a grossly overloaded pickup and the rear suspension totally screws up the valve.

I use this at home...https://www.pplmotorhomes.com/parts/electrical-plumbing-lp-gas/rv-toilet-tanks-plumbing-sanitation/macerators/sewer-solution_88-8635 I pump 60 ft to my house sewer cleanout. I use 60 ft of 1"PVC. This is only of little use on the road as it requires good water pressure. In many cross country trips I've always found places to dump every few days.. This helps https://www.sanidumps.com/sanidumps_usamerica.php

Recheck ALL recent work done to your Toy

Its a 40mi climb from Evanston 6700 ft to 10000 to Mirror Lake. Lots of 5%+ grades. From Mirror Lake its a 10% climb to the pass at 10700+. Then its 20 mile down hill to Kamas. Miles of 5-7% down grades. In a 8.1 liter Winnie with 4 wheel disc brakes its tough, in an overloaded Toyota RV, nope, take the interstate .

The max SAFE capacity of a propane tank is 80%. So a "12 gallon" tank would be full at 9.6 gallons

Normal

Use this stuff when you put things back together...https://www.ebay.com/itm/20g-Tube-Syringe-Silver-Thermal-Paste-High-Performance-Heatsink-Compound-CPU-GPU/131753508718?hash=item1ead1eff6e%3Ag%3ANfkAAOSwEjlbS6rh&_sacat=0&_nkw=silver+therminal+compound&_from=R40&rt=nc&LH_TitleDesc=0

Ya the sound deadening stuff works, but you still won't end up with a Rolls Royce cabin. The stuff comes as a deadener or as a oil can preventer. A full layer of Fat Mat acts as a deadener/reducer. There are several products like Fat Mat, just get the rubberized type and not the asphalt based stuff. The Lizard skin spray on stuff changes the vibration frequency of a large metal panel and prevents it from acting like a speaker and amplifying sound. You can get just 12" squares of the Fat Mat stuff and place it in side doors and around speakers and some random spots on the floor board and it will change the ting door close to a thunk. This place has both types... https://www.ebay.com/str/Deimos-Deals?_trksid=p2047675.l2563 On my 64 Hot Rod Chevelle I've used both, including the roof.

You would have 3 battery chargers if you go solar 1. The Toyota truck alternator 2. The converter mounted in your RV, it will charge the battery slowly when the power cord is plugged into 110v 3, Your new solar panel and controller. A 100w panel will make about 5+ amps in perfect conditions. But reality is more like 3 amps over 8-10 hours. Less load is equally important as a more powerful solar setup, both will give you a longer boondocking time. Get set up right for load and go with a 100w panel, if it does what you want then great, if not buy another 100w panel. Just make sure the controller you get with the first panel is big enough for more panels. A 15 amp controller is minimum for 200 W. You best strike while the iron is hot before Trumps tariffs raise the price of new panels

To Solider/weld a gas tank. remove tank, remove fuel level sender, find a good sized hose and hook the tank up to the exhaust pipe of an running engine. This fills the tank with inert gas and you can weld solider as needed. YMMV

Start here and see what will fit in your battery box, most Toys will fit a 24 (80h) or 27 (90 ah) sized battery. https://www.batterystuff.com/kb/tools/bci-battery-group-sizes.html With LED lights and some common sense usage a100w panel will make 2-3 day stays possible. 200w will allow for extravagant usage, and perpetual stays. If you are out in cooler weather the house heater is a real power hog, so 200w and a larger battery can get you to a 3-4 day stay

The main AC power cord, that goes from the rv park/house plugin to the main RV fuse panel. In a house the neutral and ground wire are bonded together at the main fuse panel. In an RV the neutral should NOT be connected to the ground, it should float. The first thing you need is a cheap polarity checker to verify that what your plugging into has correct polarity

I can't remember the exact details right now. Something about the neutral (white wire) and ground (green wire) should not be bonded together, but the neutral should float

A used tank might be the answer if there is a next time. What brand were the bad tanks?

Try here for propane fittings and stuff. http://propanegear.com/fittings/