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Everything posted by WME
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Clueless. About the only crazy thing I can think of is cruise control. In the old days there was a mechanical cruise control that used to mechanically locked the throttle pedal, it had a switch that would release it when the brake was pushed. It did not vary the throttle on the engine but just locked the gas pedal. Maybe what you have left is from someone uninstalling the old system.
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My Escaper averaged 13.7 mpg over a 3000+mi trip. When I was selling it I said it would get 13-15mpg, I lost a buyer to some one who was selling a Dolphin in the next city over that "got 20mpg". I often wonder what the buyer though of things later. I once got 21mpg when touring Yellowstone @35mph, maybe I should of just advertised 21mpg.
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FWIW 22re, auto, 2people, loaded weight 6400lb. 3500 mi, 13,7 mpg@ 60-65 mph. Before doing anything rash, give yours a full tune up and go for a weekend drive @ 60 mph and see what you get for mpg. A trailer adds drag reducing mpg P.S. 26ft class A with 7.4L Vortec, 3people, 12,500 lb, 6400 mi, 10 mpg @55-60 mph. So 3.7mpg gas guzzler "tax", but 2x the room
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Yep that's what we've been talking about for 3 pages. stabilizing and leveling are different functions
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Ya know you can let air out of an airbag . If your not moving you can let a lot of air out.
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Stablizing jack. http://www.ebay.com/itm/Aluminum-Stabilizing-Trailer-Stabilizer-Leveling-Jacks-/141161830927?pt=Motors_RV_Trailer_Camper_Parts_Accessories&hash=item20dde69a0f&vxp=mtr Leveling jack http://www.ebay.com/itm/Four-24-5000-lb-RV-Stabilizer-Scissor-Jacks-leveling-camper-trailer-4-24-50CR-/181166086120?pt=Motors_RV_Trailer_Camper_Parts_Accessories&hash=item2a2e5717e8&vxp=mtrA With a remote compressor you can use your airbags to help with the leveling http://www.ebay.com/itm/2198-Firestone-Air-Rite-Dual-Air-Command-III-Suspension-Control-/301045433694?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item4617b4c55e&vxp=mtr
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Which Model Has The Tallest Interior Height?
WME replied to thunder_chicken's topic in General Discussion
Installing a bubble skylight in the shower adds about 4" of headroom -
79 Travette
WME replied to thebonds's topic in Improvement and Do-It-Yourself Projects you have done to Share!
Look up the max gvw for that year truck. Weigh yours with the rear axle on and off the scale. The weight difference should tell you how much the rear tag axle is carrying and if your "real" axle is within weight limits. -
A wood block, add some paint and it will look good. Use long bolts and fender washers inside. That way you can use it and not pull it off.
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I used a BFH and a socket. Make sure the socket is larger than the cone or the nut. Leave the nut on the stud, place the socket over the stud and cone and smack it, make sure you hit the end of the axle and not the cone. A couple of hits and the cone will pop out. Do it 5 more times and then the axle will come out easily. You CAN NOT pull the axle with any of the cones in place.
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You will never seal it from the outside with any kind of "goop". I had to cut the ABS pipe off and use a sanding drum to grind out the ABS pipe until I was down to the Poly. Then cleaned everything and used Linda's method. You cant just re-glue it because the Poly part wont be perfect. The sealant is thick enough to fill in the gaps. If the neck on the tank itself is long enough you can just cut the ABS pipe. Then use a rubber coupler and hose clamps over the outside of the tank neck and ABS pipe to make things watertight.
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I've been over a 12,000ft pass in Estes Park in CO. As for brakes the thing to do is go down the backside of the mountain in the same gear you went up it. Use your brakes as needed to keep the tach happy.
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Several options to help get you to CA. with the hubby and 2 dogs. One solves the room problem the other will get you over the Grapevine I-5 1. 2. Not to bad for a Splitie, notice how relaxed the passangers are.
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Welcome to the wonderful world of fixing problems caused by something that the P/O did or didn't do.
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Are you cheap, crafty and possible forgetful? The simple way is to install a cheap fuse holder, with about a 5 amp fuse in it, across the battery cables at the isolator. Then the onboard charger can charge both batteries all winter long. You just pull the fuse before your first trip and your isolator works as planned. If you forget when you start the engine the 5 amp fuse will pop and the isolator works just fine, and your out a 50 cent fuse.
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Better check the invoice and see what quantity they have you down for