WME

You have 6 tires balance all of them, that way if you feel any strange vibes then it isn't tires. Use a smart phone and take a video when somebody shows you how something works.

I have 2 AGM batteries they are mounted inside and unvented, this is now officially frowned on, but it used to be OK and I've been doing it for 5 years with no venting problems. I camp in 0 degree weather and having the batteries in a sorta warm place will let then deliver more power. Using a proper charger with an AGM rating is a must or you can damage a VERY expensive battery.

I don't know your plans, but if you're up to a BIG adventure then go to the southgate via Dubois and Moran junction. Then do the park for a couple of days and exit via the Silver gate and go north over Beartooth pass to Red Lodge. Foe a not so big adventure go to Cody via Thermopolis and spend some time there at the hot springs park. Then to the Buffalo Bill museum in Cody. Then to the east gate, do the park and leave via West Yellowstone. Sent from the Corn Palace

Well this is interesting... We just started our summer vacation/trip. The only toy we have seen so far was an Escaper with a motorcycle strapped on the back. It was parked in a corner of our local Riverton WY Walmart. Was that you?

All your adjusting is the idle mix. Each throttle has a main jet, air bleed jet and a emulsion tube. To rejet for a higher altitude you need a smaller main jet, if you make a big change you will need a larger air bleed, and if you get crazy then you will need an emulsion tube with more holes in it.

"Typically" a backfire under deceleration is caused by a lean condition. Often caused by a Bad gasket or broken vacuum line. The only way to jet a carb is with an air/fuel meter, Ebay has them in the $175 range. In the OLD days I learned how to jet a Weber by reading sparkplug color. I had bags of jets, air bleeds and emulsion tubes.

Make sure your substitute Freon is for R 12 and NOT R 134. The EnviroSafe stuff I've seen is R 134. Google Freeze 12, also Real R 12 is all over Ebay for $ 25 or so a can

The new sureflo pumps still are supposed to shut OFF. The bypass is for when you are running a trickle out of a faucet, like brushing your teeth. The bypass will let the pump run continually instead of rapidly cycling on and off. But once you shut off the water the system will come up to pressure and the pump will shut off.

What model pump did you get. I wasn't aware that any of the Sureflo pumps had a bypass system. All the ones I've installed shut off when they reach pressure. A constantly running pump can't be energy efficient.

The joint I had the most problem with was the 4 into 2, manifold to down pipe. Finally after replacing 3 of them I found the secret. Loosen the manifold and then torque the down tube joint carefully so that you have an even crush on the donut gaskets. Then tighten the manifold. I probably screwed the local parts store inventory buying 3 gaskets set in about 4 months exhaust gaskets sets.

When I did carpets I used Dyna mat for sound control and a layer of Reflectix to help reduce the heat. Both make a big difference.

22RE engine SHOULD have a rubber diaper around the distributer. With out it, rain will drown it out.

The typical RV roof AC will only show a 20-25 temperature drop when its running. We're talking about room temp vs AC outlet temp

The only truth about what to carry is...If you have it, you will never need it. As soon as you get rid of it, you will need it with in a week.........

If you do use bolts, just drill out the hole to 5/16 or so and get the same size dowel. Coat it with epoxy and stuff it in the hole. After things set up cut off the part of the dowel sticking up

When you get home take everything out and make 2 piles. One of stuff you used and the other of stuff you didn't use. Put the stuff you used back inside and take a long look at the other stuff. I understand some unused things should be kept, first aid kits, spare RV parts. But the extra set of silver ware and the second set of coffee cups maybe you could do with out :-)

Sounds like your OK. the PCV should draw fresh FILTERED air into the valve cover, either from the air cleaner or through the K&N breather cap. The other end with the actual PCV valve should go to a fitting in the manifold or a fitting in an adapter plate BELOW the carb. To work correctly the PCV needs manifold vacuum.

Wow talk about 10lbs of s#*t in a 5lb bag, dude your loaded for sure. All the designing to make the cubbies paid off.

And as soon as you open the door to get a cold beer all the numbers are shot to hell. Add a kid to the mix and you'll see why most rv come with propane refers. That's also why the super DC refer JD wrote about is a chest type.

Your engine looks clean, guess somebody cared and didn't use Pennzoil If you so much as bump the head you need to pull it and install a new gasket. I had to helicoil the block where the 2 bolts that were between the exhaust valves, it must be hot there. I maybe a bit old fashion, but I've never been a fan of changing the brand of oil on high mileage engines.

Idea JD when you actually start twisting wrenches start a new post (with lots of pics) in the engine section

Looking for a vacuum leak? Use a can of carb cleaner. Carefully spray around the carb base and suspect hoses. If there is a leak the rpm will change, some times faster, some times slower. Stop spraying when the engine gets hot.

Random thoughts, rebuilding your head is cheaper for sure. Just check for corrosion in the water jackets. Lack of proper care will cause thin spots in the head. Steel chain guides are a good investment. There is a hidden head bolt that lives hidden in a oil pocket under the distributor drive, it clamps the timing cover to the head. Leave the exhaust header/exhaust down pipe intact if possible (just pry the header back to get the head off) Just remove the idler arm and pull down on the tie rod to get enough space to drop the oil pan. The oil pump is a gear rotor in the front timing cover so nows the time to replace it if there is any question about oil pressure.

My engine was overheated by the PO and used lots of oil. It had 65k on it. There was no ridge in the cylinder. The ring clearance was ok with the used pistons, I used a dingle ball hone and really cleaned the bore after honing. I paid $275 for the cam and head. I never been a fan of planing a warped OHC aluminum head. Personal likes, I don't like chrome faced rings for this use, moly is nice but will flake under detonation so that why Deeves rings. Hastings makes good iron rings that will seat fast on a proper cylinder wall. But they will only run a 100k or so. Of course that's not a real problem with our motorhomes. A 100k is like forever

I used the head and cam set from engnbldr.com. And I used Deeves cast steel rings. I watched Ebay for a couple of months and finally found a used/new head and cam. It was the classic "I just bought the head, but I wrecked my truck before I could install it".