ToyoGuy

Thanks Linda, I guess I'll be peeling that formerly attractive shaggy stuff back and taking a closer look this weekend. My curiosity is killing me. If I solve the mystery. I'll report back. TG

I have a friend who is a fellow '85 SunRader owner; and is trying to figure out how the bullet style lock-receiver plate is attached to the left side of the door frame of his coach. Somehow, according to him, there is a block of wood in the mix. Maybe it's glassed to the interior wall? or screwed to something? (the rig is not where I can get to it) I changed mine out to a Bargman so long ago and have forgotten, and he has not reached the "adventurously aggressive" stage of repairs yet in his quest for a well-functioning lockset. Does anyone remember how the plate is attached, or have a coach stripped down far enough to comment? Thanks for any help offered. BR, TG

Thanks Linda, MW1 and Maineah, Found the correct starter and it's finally getting cooler here, so I can work on the rig and inspect all parts/areas. TG

Thanks markwilliam1, It's definitely time to get a stockpile going. The days of "OEM, on the shelf" are sadly gone. I'll make the call tomorrow and see what the dealer here in Cali. wants for a rebuilt compared to Ohio price. Should be interesting...... BR, TG

The gear engages the flywheel correctly to start the motor, but when the engine starts, it's like the pinion gear assy doesn't withdraw/snap-back fast enough and there's a little bit of "razzle" or slight grinding when the ring gear spins off the very end of the pinion gear, which is likely going a lot slower at that point. Sounds suspiciously like the reverse and more common problem where, when trying to start a vehicle, the starter gear occasionally grinds the flywheel, but doesn't mesh enough to fully engage to the flywheel and can't start the motor.

Howdy All, I am beginning to get a "lazy" pinion gear performance from my starter. It is dis-engaging a bit slowly when it's cold and I don't want to screw-up the ring gear by leaving it that way too long. (22RE motor, standard trans) The FSM says this can be variously due to "faulty magnetic switch" or "Damaged or worn pinion gear or ring gear". Hmmm, a faulty magnetic switch, WTH? A Denso-brand reman appears to be about $45 plus shipping online.and this is not original parts pedigree. A solenoid-only repair kit online is $18 and a whole starter repair kit, with the pinion, is the price of the whole Denso rebuild. Any reason not to just replace the whole thing? Any words of whizdumb here? I have heard these starters are "bullet-proof" and well worth keeping, IF you have an OEM, but alas, I am not so equipped. Thanks for any input, BR, TG

Oh yeah, Hmm, Somehow I just assumed it was a removable-slider-window and it might be a common size. Also, I confess,... when I'm in Sac, I just like shopping there for my punch-list. Heck, it's the only place I've ever seen an authentic SunRader lock assembly, complete and in good condition for sale. I shoulda bought it, but I completely changed my lockset and couldn't justify it at the time. TG

Just an off-chance, you might measure it and try RV Doctor George's salvage yard up there in Sacto. Would only take a couple of minutes and you might get lucky. George is gone, but the guys there have been very helpful and the prices were reasonable the last time I was there. Good luck and sorry for your misfortune. BR, TG

Thanks for the compliments Linda and MW1, I couldn't have done the job I did without the kind folks on this forum. Heck, I just noticed on my profile today it's been 10 years I've been a member........... Kinda makes me a little teary. D'oh ! On the other thing, guess I should consider loosing weight and start meditating on my roof, maybe then I could end up knowing half of what Linda knows about these things. On the other-other thing, sometimes I think we oughta rename that stuff "RV Wheeler's Friend". It sure works well. BR, TG

Sorry for the lack of clarity,... Yes, the weight was the thing, EPDM as indicated by WME, it's amazing how more weight can seem to creep into these tasks as the total completion comes into sight. I had forgotten your past experience with the VeeDub, so I now realize you have a more evolved horsepower-to-weight ratio consciousness. I concur with the plywood weight distribution idea, especially at your weight class.... if you do get a rig with a flat roof. Again I was coming from a skewed SunRader perspective, and those roofs are curved. I do lean on my top, or sometimes lay over it when I,m on a ladder and I reaching to do caulking etc.and, like WME, I went the route of making up simple scaffolding that has served me many times since. I am 5' 9" though and results do vary. When all else fails,sometimes, I just get help. TG

Couldn't ask for a better fit, wow.

Hey there SOH, I applaud your careful research and wish I myself had asked more questions before I took the plunge. It would have saved me a lot of $ and grief. This might be a good time to decide whether you are including a roof that you expect to walk on, as an item on your list of requirements for your RV. I have an 18' SunRader and, at 160 lbs, I have been able to successfully navigate any maintenance or repair tasks (including scraping off large amounts of every imaginable goop and sealer from the roof around the vents and removing an A/C unit), without needing to try to walk on the roof. I understand the sirens-call of this particular temptation, but would never do this on my rig, even though I installed reinforcements and re-arched the ceiling during the restoration. Personally, I would add the statement "of course you can walk on the roof of this C class RV!" to the list of reassurances: "the check's in the mail", "I'll respect you in the morning" and "I'm from your government and I'm here to help you". That said, I realize that we all have different needs and loading skills, but personally, I just don't think the risk of stressing all that reinforcement and cabinet work is worth it. Also, and related to this, though not many seem inclined to the EPDM solution, I found it useful during my searches for even the smallest solutions to any fixes or modifications, to relentlessly ask myself, "how much does it weigh?". I was then new to the principle that every time I drive my RV, I am paying again to haul all my solutions around with me. Just some thoughts, they were helpful for me. BR, TG

Heating the screws is an old trick I have used on nails, screws, bolts etc that are stuck in old steel, wood, plastic and other stuff. If there's enough of the fastener shaft left, it seems to break the rust bond, glue or any sealant that may have been used originally, or sometimes just a really tight fit. It worked well on stubborn old fiberglass bonded by rust. As usual, normal tool cautions apply. You can usually smell when things get warm enough to loosen-up. I used an old pistol-type Weller brand soldering gun, not sure if the little pencil-type would have enough power. TG

From what I've seen,the most common "too-long" offenders seem to be ones located below the side windows in the cab-over sleeper. Two of them per side usually completely penetrate the shell and screw about 1/2" into the horizontal strips of plywood that the sleeper side paneling is attached to. I had difficulty removing all the old rusty ones to replace with stainless until I hit on heating them up with a good high wattage soldering gun. Then they backed out quite nicely. Out of all, I think I might have had to repair 3 or 4 of the holes with a bit of resin and flock powder and re-drill. I also blew out crud from the others with about 40 psi compressed air, then pre-loaded each of the holes with caulk before putting the new screws in. Worked for me, BR, TG

http://allofcraigslist.com/ http://www.searchtempest.com/ Both web-based, should work for you...may be useable as phone "app" as well. Never used either, but I'm sure there must be more. TG

Closest thing I've seen. No boxes, not aluminum and not cheap, but I'm thinking about it myself. Sure would be nice to be able to just fold it up instead of pulling it off every time I store the rig. Dunno if it would block brake lights on mine when folded up though...... BR, TG

Maybe take some reference pictures to email and measurements of basic stuff like ID, length of straight portions of the throat, angles etc. and try RV Doctor George in Sacto. http://rvdoctorgeorge.com/ They have been helpful for the SunRader on an occasion or two and have been great to work with. Good luck, TG

Nice pictures (and fish) Darrel. Couldn't help but notice the 'skeeter-proof shirt. Have you needed it for most of the outdoor portion of the trip up there, or just fishing? Glad to hear no problems so far. Safe travels. TG

Just my 2 cents.. I originally had the cool 360 degree model, but, I tarp my rig in the winter, and the "shark-fin" on it cuts plastic tarps really well when you're a one-man-pull over tarping team . That one is now mounted on a fence post at my brother's house as a weather-vane and I have switched to contestant #3, the siphon vent, which works every bit as well moving, or parked. BR, TG

I also heard everyone's recommendations and went from well-used Rancho adjustables (in the back), via the PO, to Bilsteins.... Heck, the Bilsteins feel a lot softer to me. Might even change them back. (vroom, vroom) Gotta find something for the fronts now. Up there, I'm currently running old Gabriel Red Ryders. BTW, I'm running all tires at 60psi. Rig is about 5,800 lbs pre-provisioned. Guess I'll hold off switching back 'till I change out the fronts though. TG BTW II - If you're talking about south of Healdsburg, that stretch is famous around here.

Thanks Linda, the mirror thing sounds like a sure win, even if the color/texture were slightly off, the mirrors aren't attached right next to the body and it should fly. If you have time, please update us, TG

I called Rust-oleum tech support this am and asked if they carried this color ( matte french cream part number 282816 ) in gloss or semi. (Haven't tried the match yet, my rig is not handy) They said no gloss or semi, offered no rational reason for this, but said that it may be possible to cover with clear-coat of some sort. My interest is high as I also have tried an assortment of paints from legit touchup (Dupli-Color Creme-#557) ( too dark) and others whose numbers I've forgotten, to Rustoleum 7794 Antique White (Too yellow?) Can't remember whether the Wimbleton White works or not, have to re- check. One of the problems is with the touchup paint websites not having any sample whatsoever of certain common colors to judge from (Dupli-Color). The other is some of us have had re-paints with only close matches to paint codes, and/or fading overall. There's also the color-match issue of stock Gel-coats on the coach for those of us who own SunRaders and have done glass re-work. Any luck from anyone there? My rig is not at the home right now, but I'll see if I can contribute more after checking the DupliColor Ford/Whimbleton Wht. BR, TG