mpanzar

@mnkywrench is your shell resting on the frame in the rear where the red arrow in the photo is?

@Marse Hernandez it is a dually rim or single?

I am currently replacing the rear section of the floor on my 18ft Sunrader and am looking for the red dimension shown in the image below. The reason I'm replacing the floor is because I noticed the rear end of the fiberglass shell was resting on the vehicle frame. My plan is to put spacers between the frame and shell (as shown in the picture). Next I'm going to weld in a new sub-frame and then attach 3/4" marine grade plywood to the new sub-frame. finally ill fiberglass the shell to the plywood and remove the spacers. If other owners could provide this dimension I would appreciate it. Any additional advice, tips & tricks, or experience is welcome.

@HoneyTrek sorry for the late response. So far so good. Ive got several thousand miles on them now. They are bit noisy but my sunrader stops a lot better with them compared to the 365s i was running before. tread still looks great.

Another member is having a similar issue right now. Different motor but seems like the same issue in my opinion. https://toyotamotorhome.org/forums/index.php?/topic/13301-starting-issues/&tab=comments#comment-119633

Take a look at this from LCE: https://lcengineering.com/engine-starter-relay-tricks/

Sorry for all the posts, squeezing them in at work. The LCE writeup is talking about a 22RE but its fundamentally the same fix.

this is the write up i mentioned in the earlier post. https://lcengineering.com/engine-starter-relay-tricks/

mine would also start whenever it was jumped.

Does it click rather than crank when attempting to start? I had a box truck with the 3vze in it would never start consistently. i ended up having to install a solenoid to bypass the "worn out" starting system, then it worked every time. there is a ton of information on the forums regarding this issue. I think LCE has a small writeup about it too. From my understanding there is a fundamental issue with the way toyota designed the starting system and there is relay that is sensitive to "low" voltage. The low voltage is not so low that the engine cant crank but its to low for the relay just before the starter.

https://www.mcmaster.com/latches/draw-locks-and-latches/nonmarring-strikeless-draw-latches/ some other options to if you sniff around long enough on mcmaster.

Tire sizes and load ratings often debated subjects here, but I run these: Specialty Tires of America STA Super Traxion E78-14LT, i think they have something for a 15" wheel as well, but the width may be a little wide depending your wheel offset. I notice the RV stops quicker in most conditions with the STAs. But they sure are noisy and likely hurt your MPGs. http://toyotamotorhome.org/forums/index.php?/topic/11293-all-terrain-tires-for-stock-sunrader-wheels/

I like these from Specialty Tires of America STA Super Traxion E78-14LT http://toyotamotorhome.org/forums/index.php?/topic/11293-all-terrain-tires-for-stock-sunrader-wheels/

I finally have the springs installed. The Sunrader is technically not sitting on its wheels yet but the jackstands are supporting the axle and the weight of the vehicle is on the new springs. A couple things i learned along the way. the bilstein shocks technically top out (less than an inch). I think this is ok since i dont plan on jumping the rig to often. (86' 18ft Sunrader for reference) the center support bearing for the drive shaft did not line up properly when the axle was floating. But with the weight on the springs/axle pushed up, the drive shaft install was straight forward, so i recommend installing the axle then resetting the jackstands under the axle, then installing the drive shaft. The shackles concern I mentioned above resolved once the springs were weighted, as @AtlantaCamper expected. The stock brake hose fit OK with weight on the springs but having some extra length would be nice since it was really taut with the axle free hanging on the springs. I swapped out the original axle for a true 1 ton Toyota axle and it seems to fit just right... so far. I haven't measured ride height but based on where the wheel is sitting in the well it looks pretty good. (0 psi in airbags)

@AtlantaCamper did you have to increase the length of your brake hoses?

I agree with you regarding the cost. especially that particular part, i payed $35 which is a bit high comparatively speaking. Regarding the vibration, I believe it will be transmitted through the spacers. I believe the parts primary purpose is to serve as a baffle rather than vibration isolation. in any case, heres a few pictures showing without and with the baffle. I also replaced the bushing that was non existent. its much happier shifting now!

Heres the missing part.... i think From the image i realized the "baffle" is definitely not there. The source of information: https://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-gen-t4rs/77065-2000-4runner-4cyl-auto-manual-transmision-swap-4.html

will do, thanks for the support. ive got some energy suspension bushings.

that image has the front end installed. the wrap is still on the springs. i though it was just protective wrap. are there clamps or something that needs to be removed under the red wrap? Both springs are labeled with a "+"

@AtlantaCamper im currently installing the leaf springs and just want to do a quick sanity check. below is a picture of the new leaf almost installed. I was expecting the shackle to be sitting a little more vertical. do you remember your installation looking like this?

I like the heater hose idea!

I believe the reason this one is leaking is because there is a missing gasket, hence why i am trying to figure out which transmission i have so i can replace it.

the case has since been cleaned when the seals were replaced on the speedo cable, the drip is likely from installation. the smell was almost immediate when i top off the fluid. there is a splash guard style seal usually on toyota shifters. As for the red sealant, that makes sense since the PO installed a 5 speed. Ive read about transmission swaps and many times different bell housings and trans combinations are used depending on where the trans is coming from.

Those charts are from Marlin Crawler. They provide information about the application with respect to Toyota model year but nothing regarding a positive identifier on the transmission itself. I never had access to the input bearing unfortunately, i did the work mentioned above with the trans on vehicle. I think its a W55 but i cant find a way to be sure.

Regarding the oil smell, i have already replaced the rear output shaft seal and all the seals on the speedo cable output.