Gulfstream Greg

What about the drive line, will they just bolt up?

There different levels of boondocking. Some need to run all their 120VAC appliances and consider a large group areas with no designated assigned spots to be boondocking. Then at the other end is the rv'er who stays out for more than a couple of days where no one else is in sight. Conservation of your RV's resources becomes necessary. You did not say what your going to boondock in. Our first toy was a Sunrader 18 foot 4x4. The biggest problem was the size of the black water tank. 8 gals I believe. The shower also uses the blk tank. I replumbed the drain from the shower so that it could dump into a 5 gal bucket. I also removed the stock shower head and installed one of the house sink sprayers that are on the long hose. We could get a shower with about 2 gals or less of water each. My point is water usage really needs to be minimal for several days of boondocking. Battery charge is another concern. Led lighting, only enough lights on to get'er done. The small camping led lanterns are great. If needed the small Honda Generators can be run quietly for along time to recharge the coach battery. But still try to orient the genset so that if you do have neighbors they will not hear it. In a dead quiet area you can hear them at a good distance sometimes. Watch the weather. A barometer is a handy item for unforeseen weather approaching from a direction you do not have a view of like a snow storm. First aid for when you or someone is losing some blood! Insect repellant. A way to start a campfire if all the wood is wet. A small shovel. The more you do it the more you will know what there needs to be. As far as finding that great spot research, look at it with google earth then go there. Good chance you will find a different better spot. Always best to let someone know the general area or direction you took off to and how long. Cell phones usually don't get a signal at your favorite spot.

At the bottom look for "Theme" with a drop down arrow

Is everything visible?

OK give it a few mins and see what you get.

Hi All, first sorry about the ads. This site needs to pay for itself to stay alive. Google made some changes to their way ads are put on a page. I made an adjustment so let me know if the problem is still there. Also what theme you are using? I cannot reproduce the problem here using "Tower Theme". Thanks Greg

There used to be what looks like a really long spring that screwed to the bulk head at each end. The spring fed through the curtain so that they could slide to open. If the bulk head is slanted then a spring top and bottom. https://www.ebay.com/gds/CURTAIN-STRETCH-WIRE-for-the-Home-Caravan-Motorhome-or-Boat-/10000000178464290/g.html

jjrbus thanks for posting that. 58 amps! I suppose it is for just a fraction of a second, enough to wake up the generator. I think that might be the same A/C unit that is on my trailer but I think the BTU is higher.

Anyone ever measure the start current for any of the A/C units? I would like to know as a reference point.

Not 100% sure but I think a 2000i is rated at 1600 watts continuous, 2000 surge. This is right from their specs "120v 2000W max. (16.7A) 1600W rated (13.3A). Use ohms law to calc unknown values for powe needs. P devided by E = I, P devided by I = E, I time E = P.

Added some camping emoticons

For Android phones without an HDMI there is Google Chromecast https://store.google.com/product/chromecast_2015 I have not tried it though.

The stock V6 engines I believe are built to run on regular gas. Maybe I am incorrect here but my original thinking was Premium should give better performance. So I ran premium for a several long trips knowing that I was going to just fly up that mountain. Gas mileage and performance eventually dropped. I have to say it was kinda like getting old, took awhile before I realized that the rig was loosing some guts. It was the little hills and mountains where I noticed a difference. Somebody here or locally told me that the Toyota V6 needs regular gas. Higher grade gas burns differently. So I went back to regular and everyone (engine too) got happy. When I switched back to reg it took awhile before life was happy though. Maybe the bad combustion burns built some crude and it took awhile to clean out. Other factor are your ignition components in good condition? Depending on what kind of ignition wires you have, factory, bad aftermarket, the wires can break down and not conduct as well. That can reduce the intensity of the spark to ignite the fuel. Ignition coils are another item. They also can break down. No way to really know unless you can read the actual output voltage. Factory vs aftermarket ignition parts, Maybe some can chime in here. As Derek said, tire pressure, what does it say on the side of your tire, mine were around 60 Lbs. Front tires start hopping, could be out of balance tires, bad shocks or both. Good shocks can handle more out of balance than worn out shocks. Ditto WME's advice. I think OD for me worked best when running at around 60 to 65 mph. A bit more rpm and inertia flying down the road. Seemed to give the engine a bit more breathing room for road conditions and just ran really well.

The google tv box looks like a cool thing, connects via wifi to the internet https://www.gearbest.com/tv-box-mini-pc/pp_633912.html?currency=USD&vip=759849&gclid=Cj0KCQjwprbPBRCHARIsAF_7gDZqmR7l-Lii5Ig_Hfb_r-JhHFsyUVVm6Etqxe830B3BurVxVqbWFbMaAvQNEALw_wcB

My 91 V6 got 12 - 13 (sometimes higher) on a good day. Overdrive for me did help out on the flat long hauls with no head wind. On the freeways I was zipping at 65 plus MPH. With the V6 I found that my trans ran much cooler in overdrive.

I would clean the top edge of the strip then apply a thin bead of this stuff as a sealant "Lexel" http://www.sashco.com/products/lexel/ A little dab on the rivets and screws also. Then replace the molding strip with new. If you get Lexel on your fingers you can remove it with WD40. I have been using Lexel for years and love the stuff. When cutting off the end of the tube just cut a very small piece then you will have more control during the application.

Water pump is a big job, any idea if and when the timing belt was replaced? Not saying the timing belt is the problem just that if you go for the water pump the belt, pulleys etc should also be replaced. Rare though that the impeller on a pump wears down enough, I have seen it though on fords with metal blade impellers. Curious if there is a way to measure flow rate in the cooling system.

Wow, definitely take it easy. Let it heal before you start doing stunts again!

What about a thermostat that does not open all the way or a worn water pump impeller?

Who actually makes the Harbor Freight generator? And are they Calif legal?

I second swamp cooler

To the top of the closet then where from there? Roof?

If you can get your hands on a compression tester it will tell you if you have a blown head gasket. But what would normal compression be?

Humming out of the speaker? That converter is a half wave diode rectified type power supply. With no filtering. The humming is probably AC voltage in the circuit. The two diodes are to the left of the transformer. A full wave rectified power supply will have 4 diodes. If you have a multi meter set it to AC then take a reading on your 12 volt circuit when plugged into shore power. If you get a AC voltage reading then that is bad for any 12 v DC electronics. Most 12 v DC electronic devices do not have the proper filtering to filter out the AC from a half wave rectified power supply and could eventually get smoked! Another problem with those converter / power supplies is the battery charger which will over charge the coach battery. That converter also disconnects the coach battery from the 12 v dc circuit and connects it to the battery to the charger when plugged into shore power via the relay to the right of the transformer. I have replaced my last two MH 6300's wit these http://www.parallaxpower.com/6345ru-replacement-upgrade-6345ru . Basically plug and play with no major retrofit modifications.

Silicon warning, unfortunately many think silicon caulk to be the choice of sealants. So it is possible you have some silicon contamination. Paint does not like silicon.