lexxxel

I made the files smaller, now they will upload. The first is the aluminum window, and the old rubber track. Second is the rubber track and the holes it has in it. Third is what this rubber stuff looks like in cross section. And forth is the drain holes I drilled into the aluminum window frame, to allow water to drain from the inside track out.

There's a cool Toyota GranSport pop top for sale in Hamilton Ontario area. Just saw it on classified site. In case anyone is interested... https://www.kijiji.ca/v-rv-motorhome/hamilton/1984-toyota-camper-gran-sport/1429489044?enableSearchNavigationFlag=true

Hey, glad to hear you are enjoying the large animals... from a distance. I also only feel safe out in the bush with a hard shell camper. I had considered a pop up, but much prefer my sunrader. I take my dog out with me, but she's only a warning not a defense... I just try to stay out of the way, and only be out during the day when I'm remote. The economy is certainly not going so well for us up here in Canada these days, worse in Alberta though. There's a cool toyota pop up locally here for sale on kijiji also. Not super cheap though.

I found some that I'm going to try at vintagetrailersupply.com Called fuzzy glass channel. It's rubber. Approximate size and shape. It looks like it might work, and it's about $20 for an 8 foot piece. So no big loss if it doesn't work. Doesn't say it has drain holes but I can always drill some in the rubber at an angle Still can't upload pics...

I've been trying to "fix" my leaking side slider windows, they are leaking because water is coming into the inside slider track where it can't drain out and then pouring down the wall. First I tried cleaning the track, but upon closer inspection, I couldn't actually see any drain holes in the frame from the inside. There are drain holes in the window, but they look to be only on the outer side (between the outside glass and metal frame). I can't take very much of the rubber slider track out to look, because it is brittle and just cracks apart. From what I did take out, I see holes in the rubber track, but none in the window frame leading to the outside. They might be there, but I'd have to wait until the window comes out and I have (hopefully!) new rubber slider track. If I can't get new track, I can't take the old stuff out. It will be useless. Does anyone know where to source such rubber track? It is 3/8" square. See pics. I've looked pellandent, nothing seems right. Suggestions appreciated. I ended up drilling a few small holes from the inside aluminum track to the outside. At least water will drain out. APPARENTLY I can't upload any pics, get a -200 error. Not sure if anyone can help minus pics...

took a look, but i find the descriptions and all the options a bit confusing...

Hey thanks... good info. If you can provide any links, I'd appreciate it.

Currently, my sunrader (truck camper) from 1981 has the original power center -- which has one 120v outlet when plugged in to shore power, and no 12v outlets at all. When the power center is switched to 12v, it runs the interior lights, and the water pump (I always just use the hand pump when camping, only use the 12v pump when flushing out the system or priming). There's also a stove light and fan, but I don't ever use those. The fan is super loud. Great for cooking I'm sure, but I don't do that either. Still has the original dometic 3 way fridge, but I can't see how to use it on 12v. The plug the fridge plugs into doesn't have any power when the converter is switched to 12v, and I don't see a separate 12v cord going anywhere. So 12v either doesn't work, or isn't hooked up properly. Fridge works otherwise, but I only use it as an insulated cupboard and am thinking of removing it. Nothing I need to keep cold bad enough to use the fridge... it gets the camper too hot in the summer anyway. No inverter capability, so the single 120v outlet does not work while the system is running on 12v. I currently have the 12v coming in from the truck batteries (the truck is an older diesel with 2 starting batteries). I don't really use the inside lights much, they are led (just led replacement auto bulbs), but they are way too bright to enjoy at a campsite. Like being at work they're so bright. I use a good quality camping lantern on yellow low light and it lights everything up nicely (not much space inside this unit anyway!). I am thinking of replacing one of the 4 interior lights with a 12v fan, so I would run that on hot nights, all night. I am thinking of 2 options moving forward: Replace the original power center and get some decent RV batteries (likely 2 x 6V) to run with my 3 x 40w solar panels (not installed yet, and may only install 2); or buy a lithium power unit (they call these generators, but really they're just power units). I see small sized lithium units can be had for about $400. Since all I seem to do is run some led's and one fan, maybe a small lithium unit would suffice. Most say you can hook up solar panels to charge it. I also like to charge my phone, laptop, and drill battery, and right now am using a small 75w inverter in the truck. Lead acid batteries I could get cheaper, but I'm thinking if I have to also upgrade my old power center, that's going to add to the cost. I want to upgrade the power center because the old one gets really hot when plugged in to shore power. Great on cool nights but not good for hot summer nights. So, I could buy a lithium power unit and keep my old system hooked up to truck batteries for the water pump and the odd time I use the led's. Then run an external fan off the lithium power unit. Or, I could replace the old power center, add 2 6v batteries, maybe 225AH, and install 80 or 120 watts solar panels on the roof. I have read some stuff about replacing the power center, but it's kinda sounding like a foreign language. I know basic electrical stuff, but at this point the power center is not something I feel confident about, because I can't even figure out what to buy! I'd prefer to update/replace the power center and add RV batteries. Advice appreciated.

Keep on keeping on, indeed. I certainly hope you are not showing this cougar and meaning you intend to kill it, or already have. I like to appreciate wildlife, watch it, and let it be. I camp in remote areas specifically to experience nature, and the animal life. We humans don't have to wipe out every other species that lives around us.

Brings back bad memories of loading and unloading my sunrader truck camper. People think sunrader shells are light; they are not. My camper weighs 1700 pounds empty. And the thing has just 2 jack points in the middle of each side. You jack it up with original jacks that seem flimsy as hell, then the whole unit tips backwards because it's so back heavy. By the time you get it high enough to drive the truck out, you feel like people are going to get crushed. It takes 4 guys to get the camper off or on the truck, and it's still a crazy nerve wracking exercise. I've thought about making jack points for 4 jacks, just to make it easier to unload or load, but haven't got around to doing anything like that yet. In the spring I will come up with a bunch of projects for it i'm sure. Looks like a cool project here. The shells are definitely worth saving.

Posting as I won't be bidding. Looks like a cool little 18' shorty toyota motorhome, the Pathfinder, which I think was made in BC, Canada. It's at the Impact auto auction in Edmonton, AB, Canada, but this is a public auction and people can sign up to bid online. Auction at 11am eastern Monday March 4, 2019. Looks in good shape with 119,000 km (70,000 miles), with a 6 digit odo, so it is actual. Hail damage. If it goes cheap it might be a gem! https://impactauto.ca/Vehicles/VehicleDetails?itemid=1036379&t=1551408259220

There is no outside appliance to hook it up to. Fridge is not connected because I didn't like the look of the line. Also, I never use. Don't eat meat or dairy, so nothing needs to be kept cold. There is also no gauge to indicate fill level. I bought it filled from the shop. They filled it. It's just a little 5 pound tank, that's what fits upright in my camper (which at one point had a horizontal tank). It isn't knocking all the time. Only at camp sites where the truck is leaning side to side and the propane is on the high side of the lean. Maybe the kid at the shop who filled it, overfilled it. If I just disconnect the tank and open the valve some of the propane will expel into the air. Will that work to reduce pressure? As I say, it's not currently knocking. I feel like if I take it back to the shop (a couple hours drive for the trip) all they are going to do is take it in the back, open the valve, and let some gas go. What would you do?

A comment about your wanting to ditch the black tank and go for a composting unit. It's a great move. I had another camper with a rv toilet and black tank, and it was a big hassle and a little smelly. Plus was always stressful about it overfilling as overflowing on camping trips. My current sunrader truck camper is tiny and of course has no toilet area, just a cutout under the dinette for a porta potty. I now use a reliance hassock toilet (i think they're called? it's a round unit with a removable bucket on the inside). I place a compostable (corn based) plastic bag in the bucket, then fill with a few scoops of horse bedding (pine pellets) or compressed newsprint pellets (packaged as cat litter). Works great for up to a couple days at a time (depending how much use it gets), and then can be composted or tossed in garbage. No overflowing, no mess, no smelly rv toilet. No smell from this unit at all, it's basically a dry toilet. Works great!

Not sure if anyone else has the 80's Shurflo hand pump faucet in their rig, but mine does and I rebuilt it with a kit from Leisure Components. Info doesn't seem largely available that the kit will rebuild the Shurflo original units, but it definitely works. So I'm posting it in hopes it helps someone. I thought I'd have to replace my faucet, but looked at the rebuild kit and it looked identical to the parts I needed, so I gave it a try. A little time consuming but well worth it. Great to have functioning water on board now! My 12v pump also works but I never need that much water so I use the hand pump and it works great.

oh ok I see, you are saying remove it temporarily while cleaning out the weep holes, and then put it back in. I thought by take it out, people meant permanently. But putting it back in will surely block the weep holes again. And yes it is from 1982 and should be replaced. Maybe new more pliant stuff would let the water drain? Or should I drill little holes in the glazing bead where the weep holes sit?