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1 hour ago, linda s said:

Ikea makes beautiful solid wood butcher block type countertops. Some of them as cheap as 99 dollars.

Linda S

http://www.ikea.com/us/en/catalog/categories/departments/ikea_kitchens/24264/?sorting=price

 

could well bean option. However, if one looks at my "counter", then it has a small sink and the oven. The alleged "counter" is the space around the sink and the oven. Of course the oven has a cover and the sink can get one. But the total space around these is like a stick or two wide. So to use a real countertop would mean deciding to go away from original design. Very probable. But I am not there yet.

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1 hour ago, cdt5058 said:

So, the table that I used wasn't all comprised of particle board. It had about 1.5" of really tough particle board around the perimeter and then a honeycomb pattern in the interior space - similar to some Sunrader roof construction. The most comparable item on their website is probably this. I was able to reutilize the edging/trim from the portion that I cut off on the exposed side + a bit of caulking/sealant.

I think that the PO of my rig actually reinforced the kitchen countertop - I found it to be pretty sturdy after I re-squared it with a few screws.

The Ikea option is very interesting if it cuts as easy as that. The cut for sink and the cut for the oven will leave very little of actual counter and may provide parts for repair of the rest.  Still what did you use to cut, a hand tool or a power tool of some kind? Does a dremel stand a chance or is plunging necessary to do the job?

edit -- about the best picture I have handy. There is about an inch or two behind and to the right of the oven and a couple inches around the sink. Thats the "counter".

20170731_161255.jpg

Edited by neubie

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Yup seems like a waste but even though your cutting out such large pieces the frame left needs to be strong. I have seen smaller pieces of butcher block at home depot. You could just cut them out of plywood. A nice finish on it and it can look great too.

Linda S

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4 minutes ago, linda s said:

Yup seems like a waste but even though your cutting out such large pieces the frame left needs to be strong. I have seen smaller pieces of butcher block at home depot. You could just cut them out of plywood. A nice finish on it and it can look great too.

Linda S

I figured that gulfstream must have given it some thought too. They used a relatively weak particle board, supported only by the front of the cabinet (also particle board) and a piece of wood screwed into the wall that held the drawer rails. The sides werent doing much either, just some light stick framing and then 1/8th ply. This thing gave up and failed on two sides early on. The left, and the back. The right probably didnt see any real use being protected by the oven and the sofa. The front particle board took the weight for the most part.

So I agree it needs to be strong.  I was thinking metal framing and fastners, metal legs, and then whatever appearance improvements that could well be canvas or granite and it wouldnt matter.

On the other hand, I intend to use the kitchen heavily.  So a real counter would do me much good.

The challenge is that there is less than 72in space between the oven and the cab. I want 72in of relatively open and configurable space that could go to just the floor with a few nuts removed.  The reason for this is to give the layout a "refresh" every once in a while. Will entertain the cats if nothi g else.

So I dont want the counter eating into that. I will get a hinged addition to the right of the oven that acts as a kitchen wall, and that latches up to the shelves when unused and comes down and acts as counter during use.

The ikea boards are interesting because they should be light. Appearance can be dealt with those counter revitalisation kits.

I should sketch this up before I make grand plans, but in reality all I do most days is scrape some more plywood and take it to trash.

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Here are some candidates for appliances:

1. Suburban 5120A Water Heater - 6 gallon -- this is sw6D electronic ignition

2. Thetford 31668 Aqua-Magic V Toilet, High / Hand Flush / Parchment

3.  Dometic Americana Single-Door RV Refrigerator RM2354     AC/DC/LP gas     29-3/4"H x 20-1/2"W x 21-3/8"D   Electronic LP ignition

 

Two quick and important questions.

1. Anyone have a bad experience with these models?

2. Where do you typically buy RV stuff that dont charge 100+ in freight for things like fridges? What are the better rated online stores that are not named amazon.

thanks.

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Check out the Dometic 310 toilets. They have a ceramic liner and are easier to keep clean.

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I installed a Thetford high rise all ceramic with foot flush toilet. Just like @ home now:-)

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Check out pplmotorhomes.com they usually have free shipping and not tax to California 

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15 hours ago, neubie said:

Still what did you use to cut, a hand tool or a power tool of some kind? Does a dremel stand a chance or is plunging necessary to do the job?

I used a cheap-o drill from Harbor Freight to drill my corners out then a Harbor Freight jigsaw to make the actual cuts. Pretty simple.

10 hours ago, neubie said:

Suburban 5120A Water Heater - 6 gallon -- this is sw6D electronic ignition

I purchased this same model from eBay last summer from this seller and am looking to install it in the coming month or so. Since her items are Best Offer, I offered $127.30 + ~$13 shipping (so $150 shipped to my door). I've also purchased a water filter, heater access door, and a CO/Propane alarm from her. For what it's worth, the propane alarm cost me $30 and turned on when connected to my 12V system.

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10 hours ago, neubie said:

  Dometic Americana Single-Door RV Refrigerator RM2354

Also, for my fridge, I'm going with a dorm mini-fridge that cost me $79 at Walmart + a handful of electrical components from Amazon that cost $80 + $10 in insulation. I'm following instructions per this thread - I'd much rather spend $400+ less on a fridge/freezer that just runs off an inverter than a propane/12V/120V combo model.

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Thank you all. The fridge is sort of a necessity due to dietary habits. I am all for economizing, and am economizing but the reliable propane backup seems like its necessary.  If its a three way, it can still be plugged into an invertor. Something I might still do. But there is a large gas tank on this thing and otherwise it will have to be setup just for the oven as the hot water heater and furnace will likely not be on for too long.

If I am going through all this trouble, might as well fix up a recognized commercial solution.

Thanks re. tools. Have the cheap harborfreight drill, so will try it.Thanks also for the ceramic lining suggestion. That is very helpful.

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Put the battery back in. Didnt start. Jumped. Ran fine.

Tested cruise control *without driving*. Aftermarket brain gets power with the on off switch on the control stick. So its wired and powered. Its hoses are now clamped on. Hopefully helps than the loose wire.

Tested A/C. Switches on/off. Fan runs. Heater works. Not sure if any cooling actually happens.

Need to test alternator circuit. Battery voltage was 14+V with engine running so its a good sign. Still want to disconnect isolator.

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On 7/30/2017 at 7:00 PM, neubie said:

what in the world is going on here? This "vent" is sort of over the entry door, has a short pipe hanging through the ceiling from the inside. What is it?

 

20170730_185751.jpg

20170730_185236.jpg

Of all the goo covered mess, this was the easiest to get rid of. There is a hole to be plugged but finally I have one thing off the roof.

Which tells me the aluminium portion of the roof is THIN. Like 1/16th or less thin. Its just a foil.

Need to get rid of plumbing vents next. Do the dark and gray water tanks have separate vents? Why do I have two? I have only seen folks mention one so far.

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I'm guessing a TV Antenna? When I caulked & painted my aluminum roof neubie my aluminum roof was pretty thin and very sturdy. It does flex when I walk on it.  Maybe different manufacturers used different thickness in their metal roofs?? I also have 2 vents but don't know which is for the grey or black tanks. Maybe someone will educate us! Enjoy your posts.

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Holy smoke!  I can't believe you took all this on...You must make a name change after you finish up, for you can't reasonably refer to yourself here as "neubie" after all this! 

I have to say that only on this forum,  *with Linda et al*,  could such a transformation be attempted with any hope for successful outcome.  But I don't need to tell you that.  Please keep the pics coming, so informative, if frightening...

Are you replacing the toilet?  If not, are you considering a waterless system?  After much research, & after several years of severe drought in CA, I pulled my flush toilet & replaced it with a C-Head dessicating/compost model.   Highly recommended.  Even unvented there is absolutely no odor.  The unit is substantial molded formica & works wonderfully.  Many RVers have installed them & are pleased with the system. 

Your project is daunting, but clearly you are *full steam* ahead. I will be watching your progress with great interest.

Scarlett

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1 hour ago, Scarlett O'Hara said:

Holy smoke!  I can't believe you took all this on...You must make a name change after you finish up, for you can't reasonably refer to yourself here as "neubie" after all this! 

I have to say that only on this forum,  *with Linda et al*,  could such a transformation be attempted with any hope for successful outcome.  But I don't need to tell you that.  Please keep the pics coming, so informative, if frightening...

Are you replacing the toilet?  If not, are you considering a waterless system?  After much research, & after several years of severe drought in CA, I pulled my flush toilet & replaced it with a C-Head dessicating/compost model.   Highly recommended.  Even unvented there is absolutely no odor.  The unit is substantial molded formica & works wonderfully.  Many RVers have installed them & are pleased with the system. 

Your project is daunting, but clearly you are *full steam* ahead. I will be watching your progress with great interest.

Scarlett

Things are probably a little bit farther along than last pictures. There are more screws out,  more of the roof aluminium is visible. 3 months in demolition is hardly full speed ahead. The roof is high enough to be almost out of reach and now in no shape to be climbed on. Cant build any scaffolding. A bit bothersome to work on.

Yes, I am replacing the toilet and sticking to a conventional one.  The odor problem will be taken care with a solar vent fan (yes it will be a bit noisy). I just wanted a porcelain bowl like non mobile homes in the end. The alternatives are cheaper in some cases but this is more straightforward.

As of now, its mostly roof repair, purchase of major appliances (water heater, fridge, a/c, generator), painting, and then putting everything back left.  Bad thing being these are the pricey parts, good thing being some sort of warranty on new ones as these are common problem makers.

 

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On 8/4/2017 at 8:54 AM, markwilliam1 said:

I'm guessing a TV Antenna? When I caulked & painted my aluminum roof neubie my aluminum roof was pretty thin and very sturdy. It does flex when I walk on it.  Maybe different manufacturers used different thickness in their metal roofs?? I also have 2 vents but don't know which is for the grey or black tanks. Maybe someone will educate us! Enjoy your posts.

Mark,

The whole sandwich -- two pieces of plywood glued to an inch thick insulation all glued to the framing sticks (or in my case metal framing) provides the strength. If there is water damage then the sandwich is gone and you are standing on the aluminium wrap unsupported.

The toilet arrangement is a pipe straight down to the black tank as you see here in previous pictures. Your black vent is on the same side as the black tank. My black vent also vents the bathroom sink! What genius thought of that?

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I agree with Scarlett. Your certainty not a "neube" anymore! Nice job so far!

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Thank you kindly,  and even though its been hard,  taking a hammer and making things less functional isnt really something to complement for. 

I have everything except for a few roof support aluminium bars on order. Lets see if I can put something back together again. Going from the thin glued strips to thicker one inch bars screwed into existing aluminium framing to make the metal framing a bit closer than it is right now. Also changing one layer of ply to 1/4 inch. And hoping to use a lot of liquid nails. Next to aluminium should be a thin layer of bondo in most places on the inside and rubber uptop. That should take a bit of weight and stand up to mild weather we have here.  Roof has been open to the elements forever as it was being torn down and I was getting concerned the sky might pour if my luck ran out. So roof gets dealt with in the next several days. Its gluing up 70 sq. feet of insulation and ply but I dont have enough means to hold it up for a day or two as things cure, so it will need to be done in parts. I am not doing a bottom fabric layer. Just primer and paint. If luck holds and it goes up and stays, I can then do the sealing from top.

For various reasons, working higher up isnt really my cup of tea. Or too low for that matter. So the over and under bits scare me a lot. Inside is sort of contained, the over and under may need some external help.

Linda -- know anyone reliable hereabouts that does mobile rv stuff? also, for the truck stuff did you run into someone experienced and reasonable here? I am hesitant to go into a random shop, even the other car is behind on its oil changes and such (no, I cant do it on either. its a matter of physical flexibility or lack thereof) for this reason. I am still very new hereabouts.

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1. There is closed cell expanding foam in all gaps. should provide a surface for some epoxy where its needed.

2. The plastic welding adhesive is finally here.

3. The roof holes are taped up too for repair.

4. The fresh water tank was finally emptied after all these years of lack of use. Its just sitting there, completely unrestrained. I plan on taking some pictures and then try to see if it will come out for descaling outside. The sensors were actually working so I am hesitant to disconnect stuff.

5. the 5 lug spare finally came off so the bumper can be painted. More rust dissolver on nuts for spare tire attachment and water tank braces. A lot of rust there, not to mention the braces are twisted out of shape doing nothing to support the tanks.

6. More screws poking through the skin came off. The old TV antenna is only held down by dry dicor. Its screw points have caused gaping holes.

7. Old screens on the screen door are out new ones go in after white paint.

Need support braces where a frame bar is missing on the roof and where the roof typically sags. Otherwise, I can start putting parts of the roof back up this week. Everything else is dry and glued down too well to be taken off.

There is a shopping list of 100s items and more small items get added every day. Amazing how after three months there are still new discoveries.

 

Edited by neubie

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After much hesitation, finally tried out the epoxies. Gas mask and all. Needed plastic weld AND bondo body filler.

The plastic weld is for the dually tire covers that extend into the coach. A stone had shattered the flimsy plastic, and hit the house battery case (likely got to the battery and all). Was previously hidden under the bed. I was in no mood to replace the whole thing. It will get a plywood cover in the coach but not a new plastic cover. So thermaplast black it was.

Then at some point in its previous life the exhaust had been escaping just behind the driver seat. Its hot enough to cause three separate holes. The previous owner was cheap enough to stick a bunch of dicor goop on it and then new shag carpet. I decided to be just a tad less cheap and stick bondo on various holes and gaps. Still need to fill in the old tv antenna (the pipe thing and its five attachment points, not where the cables come in)  holes that are poking through the roof, leaking and destroying it.

Finally, got the spare out of the way so the black tank can come off (it must, there is no other way of adding a flange on it. Even a 4 inch flange does not fit. And whoever says things dont rust in california has never met my poop storage bumper under this flimsy protective thing!

The roof wants a sh%t ton of attention. Just getting the goop and screws off is a nightmare due to being practically unreachable. It should weather some water on the roof now with holes mostly closed and a tarp handy if needed so I am less concerned than the near panic until I convinced myself expoxy isnt rocket science or poison. It might be.

 

 

20170809_205453.jpg

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Still havent the foggiest idea of what to do with the faded stripes. They are the only real outside blemish. But I dont have the wherewithal to use the erase wheel to get all of it off. Too slow.  Probably signage stays as is until the end of the project. May be goes away slowly when it starts getting used.

On a separate note, need new glazing bead for front window. Where do you folks buy it. The one place I found wants 20 bucks just for shipping, and then a couple dollars a foot. That gets expensive quickly.

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I have seen some that they sanded smooth and then repainted new stripes over them. They looked fantastic. Or paint all white and put on newer looking RV decals. My friend Roy did that to his Sunrader.

New+Canopy.jpg

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Hey neubie you must have shopped @ the same place I did for glazing bead. Ridiculously expensive! Linda provided me a link to purchase the bead Way cheaper. I replaced mine last year. Perhaps she will repost as I can't remember the place.

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Thanks guys. Linda -- do you remember the glazing bead link? Searching didnt bring up anything good.

In the meantime, finally tried to put a flange on the black water thank. The tank braces have to come off, but they are hanging of nuts in almost impossible to reach places. Need tools that can go over a two inch nut to reach a bolt. More tools that I will need once. Hello, Harbor Freight.

On the other side of the tank, pictures previously posted, is a three inch ABS pipe glued to make a low seat high. Well I can fit a new flange on it, but there is, was, a connector that blocked the flange from sitting flush on the floor. So, more ABS chop chop. Now, there is a three inch pipe at the end of the tank. There is a 4 inch flange. Need new 3 inch pipe to go inside the tank pipe, then a 4 inch pipe to go over it, and inside the flange. All in about two inches.  Probably better if the flange sits inside instead of outside the pipe, but something will work. At least with the pipe gone, I can start redoing the back end.

Here you have the cut off black water vent to reposition the sink. The fresh water tank that is sitting completely unconstrained except by the piping. The real black water hole. The flange. The bare bathroom and cupboard ready to be redone.

Oh, and bare unprotected wires coming out of the walls as usual.

 

20170811_144406.jpg

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