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Everything posted by WME

  1. WME

    Heading home

    I-5 is not Toyota RV turf, Hwy 99 and Hwy 1 are more Toy roads.
  2. Depending on the motor I have used 2 methods of relubing. 1. A riveted motor gets very carefully hung by its shaft with the other end just below the surface of a cup of oil. I use Mobile 1 , let it sit for a day and then turn it over and do it again. 2. A bolted together motor gets taken apart and plain end gets submerged for a day, the end with the brushes get a careful submerging as in #1. Even after years of heavy use the motors were still quiet. The idea is to soak the bearing itself and the cotton wicking.
  3. A word of warning to those who are thinking about the lube in the rear axle. There is nothing that stinks as much as 30 year old rear axle lube, it will forever ruin any clothing it touches. YOU HAVE BEEN WARNED.
  4. Inside to out. Bearing, thrust washer (washer with inner tab), nut, nut keeper, cotter key. All are common parts
  5. Heaters are simple IF you understand "things". Are you running the heater off the house battery or is your rig plugged into a 115v source? Failure points, heater blower, sail switch, ignitor points, control board, gas valve. Check outside vents for critter nests. Cycle it 6 times while plugged into 115v. IF your battery is a bit low the blower won't spin fast enough to trip the sail switch. Without the sail switch tripping there is no heat.
  6. Invest some time before you spend $$$. Run the aluminum rad with out the shroud and see how it works. Then install the OEM and run it the without the shroud and compare the two. If OEM is cooler then by all means buy a shroud, if hotter then look else were.
  7. Maybe start here http://www.delamrepair.com/index.html
  8. If you have a solenoid isolator just turn the key on. If your worried about the auto systems draining things, just use a short wire with clips between the house battery (big cable) and the 12v switch in (small wire). This will make a high amp connection. Desperate times, just connect all 3 big wires to the same terminal, works with any isolator. This will also work when your alternator cr*ps out in Baker Ca. at 03:00 . You would be surprised how long a 100AH battery will run the engine and lights.
  9. MOST rv thermostats have a small on/off switch on the bottom. Have you tried it? A millivolt house stat works ok, spend a few bucks more and get a heat only digital stat. It will have set backs.
  10. The outlets are powered by 115v ONLY. The older chargers will boil out the water. Did you ever check your water level? What charger is in your Toy?? The newer converters will work OK if plugged in continually. To bring 115v power to your outlets from your 12v battery you need to spend some serious $$$. You will need an INVERTER and an ATS or a big DP/DT switch VOCUBLARY Converter, converter takes 115v ac and makes 12v dc to run the lights and stuff, some converters will also charge the house battery. Older converters will charged at 13.5 volts around 6 amps. The newer converters have three or four charging levels. Inverter, takes 12vdc and inverts it into 115v ac. To run a small microwave will require over 110 amps from your house battery. ATS. auto transfer switch. It selects from 2 sources of 115v and sends to a single point. 115v power cord and a 115v generator are usually the sources. You can also use 115v power cord and an inverter. Some of the high quality inverters will have an ATS built in. 115v ac power cord will be priority and if its not the ATS will switch to the inverter.
  11. The siding on mine is a Filon type of panel, a lite pass with 600 w/d took care of things. Below the belt line the baggage doors and the door are fiberglass. They got a serious sanding with 400 w/d. The baggage doors were propped open on a simple sawhorse and then flooded with water and I used an air driven "palm sander". The door got 400w/d power sanding with running water. The wheel wells were hand sanded.
  12. BKF is inert, you don't need to neutralize it. Any good car washing soap will do just fine. A brush or fuzzy hand mit will help. The TSP is for cleaning off grease. But a prepaint wax/grease remover will work too. Take your hand and run it over the cleaned areas, is it smooth or do you still feel fuzzies??? A gel coated Rader should feel smooth unless its been horribly abused. If its smooth just ZEP it. If it still has fuzzies then you need to LIGHTLY sand with wet and dry paper. Get a bucket of water and put a couple drops of dish soap in it and use that. If your not in a water critical area then take a hose set to trickle and sand that way. Hose in one hand and sandpaper in the other. Use a sanding block. Wet and dry will last 10x times as long when wet vs dry
  13. IN the original 6332, C option was a 6 amp fixed voltage charger, not a 3 stage. If your manual says your unit has a 3 stage charger then the power section has been replaced with a modern unit and you should be just fine IF your replacement is working correctly. Keep your $$ for something else.
  14. The Magnetek 63XX came w/wo a charger. The charger is option C. Without the charger it is a constant voltage power supply.
  15. WME

    New Panel?

    Your voltmeter should be 13.5v or higher
  16. 3 or4 possibilities, 1 It ain't the window, check clearance lights, front hatch. Water will flow a long way. 2 The frame is the leak, remove window and frame, then reseal with butyl tape. 3 The glass is not sealing against the frame, remove window from frame and reseal with window sealant. Black goo. Very unlikely 4 The problem is condensation on the inside of the window, open a vent at night 5 The window frame drains are blocked or maybe not even there. Water will weep through the glass/frame and fill up the inside groove and over flow eventually. #4 problem acts the same way.
  17. It seems to take 3-4 coats to get 100% multilayer coverage. It seem you always miss a streak or 2. You can see what I'm talking about when you check each of the first coats in the sun.
  18. WME

    Found a Generator

    Owners manual and wiring diagram. http://www.wenproducts.com/store/generators/wen-3500-watt-generator-56352
  19. WME

    Found a Generator

    Back to the beginning. It looks like WEN has already done the conversion for you. You have a switch labeled 120/240,120. You may have a 30A 120v feed to the 240/120 connector.
  20. You should get flow from the hot side when its bypassed. Got a picture of your system.
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