candace Posted March 8, 2016 Share Posted March 8, 2016 About half the time when I turn my RV off, it rattles and shakes from under the hood in a way that doesn't give me confidence. Any ideas? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WME Posted March 9, 2016 Share Posted March 9, 2016 Year and engine please. EFI or carbed? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
candace Posted March 9, 2016 Author Share Posted March 9, 2016 1984 2.4 liter 4 cylinder 22r bottom/20r top carbed Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WME Posted March 9, 2016 Share Posted March 9, 2016 Sounds like a classic case of dieseling. See if the carb as an up idle solenoid and if it works. The up idle works when the key is on, it raises the idle speed to normal. When you turn the key off the throttle is closed all the way. If the throttle is open just a bit the engine will run on with hot spots in the cylinder head igniting the fuel. The timing is way off and the engine will shudder or even run backwards. Some times somebody adjusts the idle speed with the wrong thing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zero Posted March 9, 2016 Share Posted March 9, 2016 Just adding to what WME posted. Besides the fast-idle solenoid system - one other thing to check. See if the choke is actually opening all the way. If not the engine will be on a metal ramp that makes it idle too fast. Also check for a broken or leaking vacuum line, or a choke-pod not working and leaking. My carb from my 20R has two choke vacuum pull-off pods and they were both bad when I checked them. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zero Posted March 9, 2016 Share Posted March 9, 2016 Carb I pictured is for a 20R. If you have a 22R carb - it is slightly different. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Maineah Posted March 9, 2016 Share Posted March 9, 2016 Every one that made cars in the late 60's up to the point they went to fuel injection had issues with run on. Usually the problem was high idle (hanging linkage, choke cams, cables etc),idle kick solenoids or fuel shut off valves not working properly. The idle kick and the fuel shut off were both controlled by the ign switch and were only on when the key was so once the key was off it either dropped the idle to a point it wouldn't idle or shut off the fuel passage way. Other things can cause this but they are pretty extreme cases. Toyota chose fuel shut off, with the engine running disconnect the wire that goes to the fuel shut off it should a least slow the engine at idle or stall it. if it has no effect look for some thing that maybe hanging any of the linkage up. Any thing above maybe 800 rpm may well be enough to cause it to run on. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
candace Posted March 10, 2016 Author Share Posted March 10, 2016 (edited) I have a dgv 32/36 Weber carb. Not sure if this is related but when I turn the ignition on it ideals high at 1500,I have to tap the gas to get it down to 700. Is this yellow wire the one we're talking about to the fuel shutoff? It's the Only wire I see from the carb Edited March 10, 2016 by candace Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zero Posted March 10, 2016 Share Posted March 10, 2016 Isn't that the electric choke? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WME Posted March 10, 2016 Share Posted March 10, 2016 (edited) Yellow wire is 12v for the choke heater. The 1500/700 idle thing sounds normal. The Weber does not have the up idle solenoid. There maybe a solenoid kit for AC up idle that could be use the same way Take the air cleaner off and check all the linkage and choke when the engine is hot. Your engine is built as a old time hot rod engine, did you have it done or did it come that way when you bought the RV? Edited March 10, 2016 by WME Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
candace Posted March 10, 2016 Author Share Posted March 10, 2016 50 minutes ago, WME said: Yellow wire is 12v for the choke heater. The 1500/700 idle thing sounds normal. The Weber does not have the up idle solenoid. There maybe a solenoid kit for AC up idle that could be use the same way Take the air cleaner off and check all the linkage and choke when the engine is hot. Your engine is built as a old time hot rod engine, did you have it done or did it come that way when you bought the RV? Previous owner is a mechanic. He rebuilt the motor and modified for more horsepower with weber carb and header. My throttle cable is fraying. I wonder if that's causing a hangup. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Maineah Posted March 10, 2016 Share Posted March 10, 2016 5 hours ago, candace said: I have a dgv 32/36 Weber carb. Not sure if this is related but when I turn the ignition on it ideals high at 1500,I have to tap the gas to get it down to 700. Is this yellow wire the one we're talking about to the fuel shutoff? It's the Only wire I see from the carb Yes that is the heater wire for your electric choke your carb is not a Toytoa carb it is an aftermarket Weber. They are good carbs but have no previsions that treat run on. So yes when it cold it will idle high until the choke heater opens the choke but once it's warm it should idle down by it's self and you should not have to kick the throttle. If that wire has no power with the key on that needs to be fixed. Completely hot it should just stay in the 6-7 hundred rpm range at idle. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WME Posted March 11, 2016 Share Posted March 11, 2016 A frayed cable could hang up causing the problem. Has the problem just started or is it a long time thing? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
candace Posted March 14, 2016 Author Share Posted March 14, 2016 The problem started recently. Not happening anymore after having the oil changed. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Maineah Posted March 14, 2016 Share Posted March 14, 2016 Glad to hear it but I have never heard of that trick. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WME Posted March 15, 2016 Share Posted March 15, 2016 The oil filter is on the carb side. Something got bumped or pushed, both to do and undo Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
candace Posted March 16, 2016 Author Share Posted March 16, 2016 On March 14, 2016 at 4:18 PM, Maineah said: Glad to hear it but I have never heard of that trick. Never mind. It's doing it again. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
payaso del mar Posted March 16, 2016 Share Posted March 16, 2016 try this: give the throttle a healthy stab just as you turn the key off, so the rpms are still rising as the ignition cuts off. not sure why, but this seemed to stop dieseling issues on several cars I had back in the 70s. maybe because the spray of fuel from the accelerator pump cools the heated bits that are continuing to ignite things? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Maineah Posted March 17, 2016 Share Posted March 17, 2016 Try turning it off in gear also takes a far amount of power just to keep it running and the idle will be lower. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.