new RVowner Posted July 29, 2015 Share Posted July 29, 2015 (edited) 1984 toyota 22r enginethe plastic broke away from the mount and it was laying on the engine, long story short.....it melted. Edited August 9, 2015 by new RVowner Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete1122 Posted July 30, 2015 Share Posted July 30, 2015 Looks like your vacuum reservoir for your cruise control. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nam Posted July 31, 2015 Share Posted July 31, 2015 Yep, part of the cruiser control system...aftermarket though Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
new RVowner Posted August 9, 2015 Author Share Posted August 9, 2015 Looks like your vacuum reservoir for your cruise control. Yep, part of the cruiser control system...aftermarket though Yes, That is was it was. we threw it away. never used it anyway. (re-ran the vacuum hoses) Thank you here is another question for you guys and gals out there. This is a picture of what we had on our 1984 22r toyota rader. (Pic found from the internet, but ours looked the same) What is that sensor/probe on the cat? Oxygen? Heat? We put a new cat on and the new cat does not have that on it so the mechanic just took it off. (Good or bad to not put one back on somehow?) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zero Posted August 9, 2015 Share Posted August 9, 2015 Yes, That is was it was. we threw it away. never used it anyway. (re-ran the vacuum hoses) Thank you here is another question for you guys and gals out there. This is a picture of what we had on our 1984 22r toyota rader. (Pic found from the internet, but ours looked the same) What is that sensor/probe on the cat? Oxygen? Heat? We put a new cat on and the new cat does not have that on it so the mechanic just took it off. (Good or bad to not put one back on somehow?) It's a temperature sensor for the air-injection part of the emissions system. Only used in California and NY trucks, I believe. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
new RVowner Posted August 9, 2015 Author Share Posted August 9, 2015 (edited) It's a temperature sensor for the air-injection part of the emissions system. Only used in California and NY trucks, I believe. Ok, well we don't have one right now because the guy took it off when we replaced the cat with a new one. Is this something that needs to be put back on? We noticed that when he took that off, the engine was running just a little bit hotter, and it seems to be lacking a little power on the freeway. Plus, we used to get 15-16 mpg, and now we are down to 12ish. Or is something else wrong? There seems to be a place for one on the new cat, there is a small hole that looks like it should go there. Edited August 9, 2015 by new RVowner Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zero Posted August 9, 2015 Share Posted August 9, 2015 You went from 15-16 MPG (which is almost unheard of as an average) to 12 MPG? I assume you have stick shift? That's what happens when a choke is stuck half-closed with a carbed system, or an oxygen sensor stops working with EFI. That temp sensor that was in your converter was there to divert air from the emissions air-pump if the converter got too hot. You can run without that sensor and have the emissions system work pretty much the same - if you send a "false" temp signal . Either by just leaving the sensor hooked up and tied out of the way somewhere - or maybe just by tying to the two wires together (not sure of that). I'm not sure because I don't know if that sensor makes less circuit resistance, or more as it gets hotter. If it is less resistance when cold - then just tying those two wires together will "pretend" it is still there. If you are sure your choke is fully opening when hot - keep an eye on your tail-pipe and see if it gets black soot in it. If so - that is a clear indication of running too rich. With an EFI system - it's means a bad oxygen sensor. But in a carbed system - the oxygen sensor has no effect on how rich the vehicle runs and just controls parts of the emissions system. On my 1979 280ZX Datsun with the same odd-ball "half charge per rotation" fuel injection system like Toyota has - fuel mileage went from 24 MPG to 16 MPG but it still ran great. Then I noticed the tail-pipe was full of black soot. Sure enough my oxygen sensor had gone bad. Put a new one in and it came right back to 24 MPG and ran just the same. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zero Posted August 9, 2015 Share Posted August 9, 2015 By the way, I don't have comprehensive knowledge of every Toyota built. But - as far as I know - Toyota did not use any electronically controlled venturi carburetors like Chevy did in 1984, or Subaru did up through 1989 (Subaru had the last legal carbed car in the USA). Cars with electronic carbs ARE controlled by oxygen sensors and DO run rich when they go bad. But like I said, I don't think Toyota ever used that sort of system. Oxygen sensors on Toyotas with carbs are a totally different system. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
new RVowner Posted August 9, 2015 Author Share Posted August 9, 2015 You went from 15-16 MPG (which is almost unheard of as an average) to 12 MPG? I assume you have stick shift? That's what happens when a choke is stuck half-closed with a carbed system, or an oxygen sensor stops working with EFI. That temp sensor that was in your converter was there to divert air from the emissions air-pump if the converter got too hot. You can run without that sensor and have the emissions system work pretty much the same - if you send a "false" temp signal . Either by just leaving the sensor hooked up and tied out of the way somewhere - or maybe just by tying to the two wires together (not sure of that). I'm not sure because I don't know if that sensor makes less circuit resistance, or more as it gets hotter. If it is less resistance when cold - then just tying those two wires together will "pretend" it is still there. If you are sure your choke is fully opening when hot - keep an eye on your tail-pipe and see if it gets black soot in it. If so - that is a clear indication of running too rich. With an EFI system - it's means a bad oxygen sensor. But in a carbed system - the oxygen sensor has no effect on how rich the vehicle runs and just controls parts of the emissions system. On my 1979 280ZX Datsun with the same odd-ball "half charge per rotation" fuel injection system like Toyota has - fuel mileage went from 24 MPG to 16 MPG but it still ran great. Then I noticed the tail-pipe was full of black soot. Sure enough my oxygen sensor had done bad. :Put a new one in and it came right back to 24 MPG and ran just the same. i forgot to add more info about the mini. 1984 toyota rader, 22r, 4 speed, brand new weber carb not the 38, but the other one. (34 /36 ?) it ran great and i really did average about 16 miles per gallon. (no jokes) (had the new weber carb on there for about 1-2 years now) The lowest i got ever was about 15, and then all this just happened with the increase of the engine heat, lower mpg, lack of power on the freeway etc And this little guy used to just cruise down the freeway at 60-65 no problem at all. now we have problems getting up hills and then we had the cat removed and replaced and they took out that little sensor thing from the cat and never put it back with the new one. where can i buy just that and maybe put it back on somehow? UPDATE: we just checked all of the exhaust that we had put on.... 2 inch cat -----> 2 inch straight pipe -----> "1 3/4 muffler" Did they put the wrong muffler on it and that it why it is acting so weird? too much air that can't get out fast enough because of the small muffler? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zero Posted August 9, 2015 Share Posted August 9, 2015 Cheapest ones I see are over $300. Not a very common item. I only find them currently listed for Toyota Land Cruisers. I suspect when it comes to Toyota trucks - those sensors were only used in HD units that were sold in California. Just a guess. The purpose of the sensor is to know when the converter gets overheated. I've been wrong before - but I cannot imagine a way the missing sensor can make your Weber carb, or the engine - run richer and eat more gas. But if you are 100% sure of cause-and-effect, I'd do this. Are the wires that were originally hooked to the sensor now hooked to nothing? If so - tie them together. If they ARE tied together - then separate them and insutate them. My point being - make it the opposite if what it is now. Can't hurt anything by doing this and it's a heck of a lot cheaper then blowing money on a new estoeric temp sensor. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
new RVowner Posted August 9, 2015 Author Share Posted August 9, 2015 (edited) Cheapest ones I see are over $300. Not a very common item. I only find them currently listed for Toyota Land Cruisers. I suspect when it comes to Toyota trucks - those sensors were only used in HD units that were sold in California. Just a guess. The purpose of the sensor is to know when the converter gets overheated. I've been wrong before - but I cannot imagine a way the missing sensor can make your Weber carb, or the engine - run richer and eat more gas. But if you are 100% sure of cause-and-effect, I'd do this. Are the wires that were originally hooked to the sensor now hooked to nothing? If so - tie them together. If they ARE tied together - then separate them and insutate them. My point being - make it the opposite if what it is now. Can't hurt anything by doing this and it's a heck of a lot cheaper then blowing money on a new estoeric temp sensor. UPDATE: we just checked all of the exhaust that we had put on.... 2 inch cat -----> 2 inch straight pipe -----> "1 3/4 muffler" Did they put the wrong muffler on it and that it why it is acting so weird? too much air that can't get out fast enough because of the small muffler? Bottle necking at the muffler? Too much back pressure causing the engine to heat up and lose power maybe? Edited August 9, 2015 by new RVowner Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Maineah Posted August 9, 2015 Share Posted August 9, 2015 It should have no effect with a Weber carb it was part of a feedback system. I doubt that a different size exhaust would have an effect either as the system came with 1 ¾”. Maybe time to do a compression check and a valve adjustment. It is possible you have a head gasket issue with the sudden change in temp and power. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fred heath Posted August 10, 2015 Share Posted August 10, 2015 It sounds like a back pressure issue.Just for fun, check the cat and I'm guessing new muffler to be sure they were installed correctly. There's an "inlet" and "outlet" for both cat and muffler. You should see a small "arrow" embossed on the metal somewhere. The arrow should point to the rear of the vehicle. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zero Posted August 10, 2015 Share Posted August 10, 2015 UPDATE: we just checked all of the exhaust that we had put on.... 2 inch cat -----> 2 inch straight pipe -----> "1 3/4 muffler" Did they put the wrong muffler on it and that it why it is acting so weird? too much air that can't get out fast enough because of the small muffler? Bottle necking at the muffler? Too much back pressure causing the engine to heat up and lose power maybe? I doubt the exhaust has anything to do with the problem. If in doubt - just stick a vacuum gauge on the engine. If the exhaust is not restricted, vacuum at low engine speed should be the same as at high RPMs. If at high RPMs the vacuum first is high but then tapers back a lot, their is likely exhaust restriction. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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