Adeibold Posted May 18, 2014 Share Posted May 18, 2014 Hi guys, Ive done a bit of searching around the site, and the internet, and can't seem to find what I'm looking for. Has anyone out there removed their cab A/C unit? I've had my Toy for 3 years and used it once to see if it worked (which it didn't really), and the unit was damaged in a hail storm before it was mine. I'm looking to remove mine for weight/fuel saving but before I take the thing off, I want to have a plan for what to do with the hole in the roof. Hoping to fine a sky light that might fit…..?? I have an 84 Sunrader. Any help or ideas is very much appreciated. Alex Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
linda s Posted May 18, 2014 Share Posted May 18, 2014 You mean removing the coach ac unit. Cab is the one inside the engine compartment. I removed mine from my Sunrader almost as soon as I got it. Hated to see that big box on top of my otherwise sleek little camper. I replaced mine with this http://www.adventurerv.net/maxx-fan-maxxair-volt-ventilation-system-white-camper-p-1023.html?utm_campaign=partsfeed_ppc&utm_medium=cpc&utm_source=Froogle&gclid=COiMya6Htr4CFXTl7AodFikAfw Not cheap but no need for an extra shield on top to protect from rain and when this is closed it's not visible at all. Blows lots of air in or out. Had it almost 10 years and still works perfect. Your current AC unscrews from the inside and then you have to carefully pry it off the roof section. Cap off the wires. You can't use them for your vent fan. I powered my vent fan with wires from the nearest inside light fixture on the ceiling. Linda S Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zero Posted May 18, 2014 Share Posted May 18, 2014 All the coach AC units I've pulled use standard 14" square holes . Same size as used by standard 14" vents (more like a 15" rough opening). You can buy a decent 14" fan vent for $125-$130. You can reuse the 120 volt AC wires if wanted by unhooking them back at the nearest junction box and and hook them to the DC at your DC fusebox or converter. Most will be 12 gauge solid copper which is fine. Just use the black wire that was formerly the 120 volt AC hot leg and make it 12 volt DC positive. Use the white wire that was formerly 120 VAC neutral and make it 12 volt DC negative. The bare ground need not be used for anything. Or you can buy some plastic wiremold runner and attach it to the ceiling to run new DC wires in. Whatever works out the easiest. If the original wires are already well routed through the ceiling - they can work fine for a DC circuit. I just got done doing this one yesterday. Took the Coleman AC off the roof and stuck in this 14" Fan-Tastic fan-vent. Also stuck in a new Winegard UHF/VHF antenna. I opted to use the original AC wires. There is a 120 VAC junction box in a nearby ceiling cabinet. I just unhooked the wires there and extended them down to the DC converter. I then stuck a 120 VAC duplex receptacle in that J-box to have an extra 120 VAC outlet if ever needed (with it's own breaker). After putting in the vent I added an extra plastic junction box on the ceiling so I could tap in some new LED ceiling lights. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bob C Posted May 19, 2014 Share Posted May 19, 2014 Yesterday I removed my roof (coach) air conditioner. It was an easy job but I backed under a large oak tree and used a block and tackle to do the hard work. I have never used the a/c except to see if it worked. It was so noisy that I could not imagine trying to sleep with it running. I installed a Maxxfan unit that I picked up on EBay. It sure pulls a lot of air and it is very quiet. I am not hauling 100 + pound of a/c unit and reduced the drag on the MH. We will use this fan much more than a/c. I did almost the exact thing as JD described in the previous post, I used the existing wiring from the a/c unit to power the fan only I pulled the wires from the 120 circuit breaker and installed it into an empty spot in the fuse block. I already had another 120 volt outlet inside that overhead cabinet. The job took about 1 1/2 hours including building a spacer for the fan, the roof is 1 1/2" think and the fan needed 2". I used pressure treated wood, butyl tape between the roof and wood and between the wood and the fan. I then painted the wood, screw heads, and around the entire thing with Dyco self leveling roof paint. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Maineah Posted May 19, 2014 Share Posted May 19, 2014 All the coach AC units I've pulled use standard 14" square holes . Same size as used by standard 14" vents (more like a 15" rough opening). You can buy a decent 14" fan vent for $125-$130. You can reuse the 120 volt AC wires if wanted by unhooking them back at the nearest junction box and and hook them to the DC at your DC fusebox or converter. Most will be 12 gauge solid copper which is fine. Just use the black wire that was formerly the 120 volt AC hot leg and make it 12 volt DC positive. Use the white wire that was formerly 120 VAC neutral and make it 12 volt DC negative. The bare ground need not be used for anything. Or you can buy some plastic wiremold runner and attach it to the ceiling to run new DC wires in. Whatever works out the easiest. If the original wires are already well routed through the ceiling - they can work fine for a DC circuit. I just got done doing this one yesterday. Took the Coleman AC off the roof and stuck in this 14" Fan-Tastic fan-vent. Also stuck in a new Winegard UHF/VHF antenna. I opted to use the original AC wires. There is a 120 VAC junction box in a nearby ceiling cabinet. I just unhooked the wires there and extended them down to the DC converter. I then stuck a 120 VAC duplex receptacle in that J-box to have an extra 120 VAC outlet if ever needed (with it's own breaker). After putting in the vent I added an extra plastic junction box on the ceiling so I could tap in some new LED ceiling lights. Yep they work great and that is a good use of the 20 amp wiring. Mine has a rain sensor, mixed blessing if it's a light rain it closes dries off opens gets rained on and repeats the whole procedure it's annoying if your trying to sleep but great if you are away not coming back to a wet camper. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
linda s Posted May 20, 2014 Share Posted May 20, 2014 Yep they work great and that is a good use of the 20 amp wiring. Mine has a rain sensor, mixed blessing if it's a light rain it closes dries off opens gets rained on and repeats the whole procedure it's annoying if your trying to sleep but great if you are away not coming back to a wet camper. The vent I posted a link to doesn't need a rain sensor. You can keep it open in a downpour as long as the wind isn't blowing the rain up. Linda S Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adeibold Posted May 21, 2014 Author Share Posted May 21, 2014 Wow, thank you guys so much, I've had some much less functional suggestions from an engineer friend of mine but this looks like exactly what I was looking for. I'm not very good with wiring so I'm hoping that aspect won't be too hard to tackle. Thanks again for the help. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bob C Posted May 21, 2014 Share Posted May 21, 2014 I looked at the vents that Linda is talking about. I really liked them but the $150 price tag on Ebay was more than I wanted to pay. I only paid $40 for the unit. I really liked the design with the built in rain shield. My vent also has a rain sensor and I like the idea because we are frequently away form the RV for extended times. I don't have to worry about leaving the vent open and soaking the interior. My fan has a remote wall control that I mounted right next to the bed so that my wife does not have to get up and change fan speeds or open/close the vent. I like to be nice to her so this is a nice feature. Only kidding, I do not make her get up to open and close windows and vents. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
linda s Posted May 21, 2014 Share Posted May 21, 2014 Well the only Maxxfan vent now on ebay with the options yours has is 190 bucks so you just got a crazy good deal Bob. Linda S Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Maineah Posted May 21, 2014 Share Posted May 21, 2014 The vent I posted a link to doesn't need a rain sensor. You can keep it open in a downpour as long as the wind isn't blowing the rain up. Linda S Yeah mine is a standard roof type vent it's nice because the vent cover is transparent tint and lets in a good deal of light. They do make a cover for but when I bought it, it was on a killer sale the rain sensor I could take it or leave it the thermostat is nice and the reversing feature is good also. They are light years ahead of the old things with little fan the likes of a rubber band airplane prop. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zero Posted May 23, 2014 Share Posted May 23, 2014 We just camped in two nights of pouring rain with our Fantastic vent fan running all night. No rain sensor. Just a three speed motor, reverse switch, and thermostat. When the rain began - I just closed it as far as it would go and still run (has an auto shut-off). Maybe open an inch"? Worked great all night and no rain came in. Ran it in reverse all night so he blew out and sucked air into our open truck cab windows. We had four chickens in there with us and the fan was a godsend. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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