About To Start My First Ever Fiberglass Project....help!

[brp]

It is time for me to glass over my wheel wells (they are gone as the Sunrader will be on a flatbed), my gas tank fill port, the fridge vent (going straight 12v DC), add some 2x1 bracing to the roof, and maybe a few other odds and ends.

I am hoping someone can help me determine my basic plan and materials list for doing these projects.

My thought is to glass in FRP panels over the large voids using Bondo Fiberglass Resin and either Bondo Mat or Cloth.

Here is a link the product:

http://bondo.com/products/fiberglass/fiberglass-resins/bondo-fiberglass-resin-20122.html

-I don't see if this is polyester resin or epoxy resin.

I don't know if cloth or mat is what I need, as I said I plan to fill large voids with FRP.

Any advice or feedback would be great, I am really looking for a comprehensive and basic way to attack this, as it is the first fiberglassing work I have ever done.

Thanks a lot.

[WME]

Long read, but your answer is there. http://toyotamotorhome.org/forums/index.php?showtopic=206&hl=sawzall&page=1

[brp]

I have read some of Bajadulce's stuff and the excerpt below basically answers my questions. I just want to know if there is anything I am overlooking or not aware of as a rookie. Thanks

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That being said, I have been using polyester throughout my projects (both this sunrader and an older V8 chinook for several years now). I have used a few different brands from different vendors, but mostly just the cheapo Home Depot gallons as it was the most convenient It's a tad thicker than "quality" resin which would seem to be counterintuitive? Most of my applications have involved a brush (bought those in large packs of cheapo throw away at Home Depot as well) and the thicker globby resin doesn't run down the walls or drip off the ceiling as easily. The few times when I had to use a roller to apply large mats of glass (underside of FRP ceiling, floor, and front windows), Yes, I had to thin the Home Depot resin with some acetone.

Both the V8 chinook and Sunrader have held up for many years now. No signs of any failure due to mix-matched chemicals in any of these to report.

Quote

I am in the process of glassing over the leaky wrap around windows of a Sunrader. I am using poly resin

Sounds like a good move. What material are you planning on using to cover the expansive holes? Myself, I used some of the readily available FRP shower panels. FRP panels are pretty flimsy, but added 3 layers of glass matte to the textured side (yes, had to spend a few minutes w/ disc sander roughing up texture) to make for a beefier panel. The beauty of the FRP, is the "backside" is non-textured and thus has a very "gelcoat-like" finish. Used it for the roof as well. Doubt these panels could stand up to the UV punishment of direct sun for very long, but painted, I'm sure they will be fine.

I've seen a lot of ppl over the internet try to use layers of cloth alone for expansive voids rather than scabbing in a section of pre-made panel. The end result is them having to apply a crapload of bondo to try and achieve some sort of smooth surface.

[dwhyte]

I did some fiberglass work installing round l.e.d. tail lights in my sunrader last summer, and I realized a few things along the way. 1) fiberglass is really sticky, I lost a lot of hair on my arms, wear gloves. 2) fiberglass dries really really fast, i used really cheap brushes because they would often turn rock hard by the time I was done with a section. 3) Fiberglass is pretty forgiving, it can be sanded, cut out, repaired, and redone without too much headache.

I used think I used fiberglass mat, whichever one has more cross weaving in the fibers, because it looked stronger, but I think either would have worked fine. I'll be glassing in both wrap around cab-over windows this summer because they leak and I hate them. Good luck!

[kayakthecoast]

Buy decent cloth, if its directional cloth lay it up in different directions to add strength.

For small projects I prefer to wet up the cloth with resin on a work surface old piece of wood or cardboard and then transfer it to your rig - less messy. For vertical and ceiling projects add a thickener such as wood microfibers added to your resin. Practice makes perfect. You can use wax paper to prevent any surface from adhering or to add pressure and force out air bubbles during curing.

[Derek up North]

I always use waxed paper over the resin/mat before I squeegee the excess.