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On The A/c D/c Converter


trickofthetale

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on my 1978 Toyota Chinook Newport I have the converter but I have no idea about the settings. I have the white switch and to the left it looks like it had 2 reostat type switches. The type that you twist( the plastic part that sticks out is broken off on both ) Can anyone help me out with when its set properly. The white switch has three positions one in the middle is off. It's the other two settings I have no idea how they should be set why and when. And what position does it have to be in to recharge as I am driving. I just put in two new batteries one deep cell and one to start the MH. Oh, and a new isolator as with the old one my generator light would not go out. I am getting like 14 amps at the battery and isolator so I think I am ok with that. Or if anyone knows of a guide for the converter.

thanx all

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If you can afford a new converter it is a good investment. I installed a Progresssive Dynamics Intelli-power 9245. It is a "smart converter" meaning that it should not ruin your coach battery even if you leave it plugged in all of the time. Your converter, if left on, can boil the coach battery dry. I think that I paid around $125. I do leave my RV plugged in most of the time when not in use. My converter is all automatic so there is no switching required.

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Sounds like a wise investment and a no brainer. And if the one I have fails I will replace it. I am more concerned with the operation of the one that is in the Chinook now. Can I assume that while I drive I set it to conv so it charges the coach battery. when I stop I put it on the other position to run the coach lights. and water pump for the sink and fridge. The fridge is another thing. I found the settings now I have to figure out how to fire it up with the propane while standing still. At least the fridge came with a manual it must have been replaced along the line.

thanks bob

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Anything is possible when dealing with stuff the PO did to your rig. BUT the "normal" 3 way rocker switch is set up is Battery, off, converter. What your selecting is the power source of the 12v for the lights. It has nothing to with charging the house battery.

Your factory converter should have a 1-3 amp separate charging circuit for use when plugged in to 120v. There should be a charging circuit from the truck alternator to the house battery.

With a new modern 3 stage converter you would remove the 3 way switch, hook the converter to the battery and hook the 12 circuit direct to the battery also.

You would still need the 12v isolator circuit to charge the house battery from the truck engine

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So if I want to use the coach lights, fridge water pump I set the white switch to battery

If I want to plug my laptop into the converter I set the switch on converter

Driving the fridge is running on propane and amonia so I set it to off

Is that about correct.

Yes I have the idea on how the isolator works and charges the coach

One more thing where should I check out a good place to pick up a converter.

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Close but no cigar, unless your computer runs on 12v. The converter ONLY deals with the 12v circuit. The 120v outlets are powered only the RV is plugged into shore power.

Try this out, the OUTPUT of the switch is 12v to power the lights water pump and such like. The switch has 2 separate INPUTS, a 12v battery and power from a 12v converter. By moving the switch you change where the 12v for the 12v lights comes from.

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OK more food for thought.

Converter 120v AC input, 12v DC output, designed to power your lights and water pump

Inverter 12v DC input, 120v AC output, designed to run house hold things, like computers, tv, a small microwave maybe. NOT camper A/C

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