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I need help with the 22re engine in my toy home. It all started with a bad alternator and we replaced it. Then it would just crank and it had no spark. We replaced the plugs, wires , cap and rotor. It still cranks and does not start. It has fuel going to the engine. Here is a video of the motor cranking.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UWGpCOHxosQ

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What is the fuel pressure? Do you have spark? Are the injectors firing? When was the fuel filter changed? From the sound of the engine cranking your compression is fine.

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^^ Agree. If it was running OK before the alternator change, then I'd be very skeptical about something that got moved, or unplugged when the alternator got change. i.e. was the distributor removed, if so so was it reinstalled correctly, were the electrical connectors from the distributor re-connected.

ALSO -I'm thinking that the IGN that feeds the Alternator and the Isolator is indeed ignition power.

Did all the wires get re-connected to the battery. This is one of the more common problems. (I'd almost bet you missed one) . Also check the IGN fuse in the fuse block.

John Mc

88 Doiphin 4 Auto (SOLD)

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Sorry I missed that you put an alternator on it, check your 15 amp engine fuse if the key was on when you replaced the alt. you very well could have popped the engine fuse it is the exciter feed to the alt. but it goes to the engine computer also. Check the 7.5 amp ign fuse too.

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there is no fuel pressure test port on the 22RE.

Did you look at the battery to make sure you re-attached all the connectors on the battery after you replaced the alternator?

ALSO If you don't have it, you can download the FSM from my web site. WARNING, This is a large file (85 meg) so it could take some time.

http://iflyez.com/DOWNLOAD/88_TOYOTA_TRUCK_Service_Manual.pdf

John Mc

88 Dolphin 4 Auto

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i never unhooked the battery when we removed the alternator. I have spark at the coil but not at the plugs. could the distributor be bad.

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You just said you have spark at the coil, but not at the plugs. How did you determine this.

If the coil is generating spark, the sensor in the distributor is doing its job (this signal is sent to the coil pack and tells the coil to fire)

The distributor may have been moved and isn't timed correctly, i.e. its generating a spark, but the distributor is sending it to the wrong cylinder or not sending it at all because the rotor isn't pointing to the correct cylinder for the spark to jump to.

Probable causes: Bad spark wire, distributor not timed correctly, plug wires on wrong plugs, cap/rotor missing or broke. If the coil is generating the spark, it has to go somewhere, follow the path

post-4544-0-05436500-1386070982_thumb.jp

If you removed (or loosened) the distributor, it needs to be re-installed at the correct location, i.e. if you get one tooth off when re-installing the distributor, the timing will be way off, Same if you even loosen it.

This procedure will get you in the ball park and it should at least start:

The timing marks are very hard to see (look at the photo as a guide to find the timing indicator), when they are lined up on "0" (The scribe mark on the crankshaft lined up with the "0" on the small number plate), you'll be at Cyl #1 or #4 Top Dead Center. i.e. either #1 or #4 has just compressed, is at the top, and is getting ready to fire. (The other cylinder is also at the top, but has just completed an exhaust stroke)

The only way to tell if your at #1 or #4 is to pull all the plugs, put your finger over the #1 spark plug hole and rotate the engine. you'll fell the cylinder compress air as its coming up on its firing position. This is what you want #1 at top dead center, getting ready to fire.

(LITTLE TRICK) - Remove the Dist cap and set it aside. leave the rotor button on. Put your finger over the spark plug hole #1. Use caution as the rotor button will be turning as the engine is cranked. Watch the rotor button as the engine is cranked.. Your going to use the Rotor button as the indicator to identify #1 TDC crank position.

Have a helper hold the gas to the floor and crank the engine. Watch the button as the engine is cranked, and observe its position when the compression blows your finger out of the hole. Once you see where the button points to, manually rotate the crankshaft to this position and line up the timing marks. You can now re-position the distributor to the correct #1 TDC position.

Lets say you lucked out and #1 is ready to fire. (Engine timing always refers to #1 TDC)

post-4544-0-13886600-1386070992_thumb.jp

If you remove the cap, you should see the rotor pointing directly at where the #1 cylinder is on the cap. (This would be rough timing, it should start, but may not run very well. You'll need to use a timing light to precisely get the timing correct.

Check the plug wires and firing order.

OH YAH - NEVER, EVER remove the alternator without first disconnecting the battery. You could easily short out the new alternator and/or start an electrical fire if the BAT lead gets shorted to ground.

JOhn Mc

88 Dolphin 4 Auto

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There is a port on the fuel rail it requires a special fitting. Before you get as far as fuel pressure I would start checking voltages at things like the ign coil and the injectors. All though it is possible the fuel pressure is off it seems unlikely though because it was running before you changed the alt. Did you by any chance have the pipe between the air flow meter and the intake off?

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Maineah, He says he has spark at the coil, but not at the plugs.

ALSO - If anyone ever takes their fuel rail off (i.e. service fuel injectors) I would highly recommend drilling a hole in the end ( the front), tapping it for 1/8 pipe thread, and either put a Schrader valve in it or a pipe plug. This will allow you to check fuel pressure at a later time. There is a special tool Toyota uses, you remove the fuel connector from the cold start injector and place this tool adapter in line.

John Mc

88 Dolphin 4 Auto (SOLD)

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