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How to do a Do-It-Yourself head liner replacement in the front cab of a Toyota motorhome?


Stevo

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this will be one of my winter jobs

was thinking about going into mexico to have the work done

will probable do it myself..

we made 1/8 cut outs for front peace (to replace the old cardboard insert)

and made new trim peace for bed..

also thinking about the left and right cab entrance walls & put some padding and the same material used for cab

my cab is brown and coach is blue I thought about trying to find blue door trim and complete dash but sound like to much work and headache for such a little thing... plus dash & trim still looks newish...

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It always amazes me when I see a cab that was shipped with a brown interior and then the MH manufacturer goes and upholsters the seats and door panels in a 'clashing' colour.

Were interiors from the factory ever anything other than grey or brown? I guess there's always vinyl and fabric dyes.

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My SR-5 Toyota pickup came from the factory with blue carpet on the lower half of the doors and a complimentary lighter blue padded vinyl on the upper half of the doors. The dash was the same color as the dark blue carpet. The seats were stripped fabric with both colors included. It looked very nice.

That being said, my Escaper RV has tan everything in the cab. Tan seat, tan vinyl floor, tan dash. Tan doors. It looks like a tan paint bomb went off.

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Hey thanks for posting the video! On my 82 Sunrader I thought I would have to remove the windshield to remove and replace the headliner but I see yours was done the same way.

A few questions please...

1) So the part of the headliner that attaches all across the top of the windshield can be removed and replaced without removing the windshield, right?

2) Did you use the old headliner as a template for the new one?

3) Where did you buy the new headliner material and how much was it? I just checked eBay and prices for pre-cut headliners start at $150 (aaargh!).

Thanks

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Hey thanks for posting the video! On my 82 Sunrader I thought I would have to remove the windshield to remove and replace the headliner but I see yours was done the same way.

A few questions please...

1) So the part of the headliner that attaches all across the top of the windshield can be removed and replaced without removing the windshield, right?

2) Did you use the old headliner as a template for the new one?

3) Where did you buy the new headliner material and how much was it? I just checked eBay and prices for pre-cut headliners start at $150 (aaargh!).

Thanks

1) The windshield stays in place.

2) I used the remnants of the old one to figure out how much to buy and where to generally cut. Most of the trimming is done with it in place.

3) I bought it at a local car upholstery shop for about 30 dollars but I am cheap so I have a hem in the middle to save material. It is normal foam backed stretchy headliner material. The whole thing takes about 2 hours working slowly -- if one had experience I bet 30 minutes. Be aware there may be a plastic clip or two that breaks and is found at Toyota or eBay. You also might want some spray adhesive.

Here is what we started with.

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That video has me wondering who took out the board that was on top of that area? It being gone is what caused the separation. The 1.5" x .75 wood strip below the opening and the board that forms the foundation under the mattress on top are what holds that whole area together. Screws go through the metal roof on up into the board above. Then the lower trip strip is put in place and screw go down through from the board on top on into the that bottom wood strip the headliner attaches to. That bi-directional screw job clamps the metal roof of the cab and the fiberglass shell together.

They used self tapping screws, drove them all the way through, then backed them out and trimmed off excess length so they did not protrude past the boards surfaces. I know this as I am presently replacing that lower board and the headliner too. Just picked up some new stainless screws for it today. I will be doing the trim to length of the screws with a fiber reinforced cutoff disc chucked into my Dremel Motor. I hold the screws by the head with a pair of vise grips, steadying it against the work bench while I do the cutting. May the sparks be with you! You could use shorter screws but the gripping power is better with the cut off screw method as you will have more threads engaged in the wood.

But if you have particle board strips on the bottom get rid of them and replace those with some decent hardwood. Nice little bit of upgrade in a place that could certainly use it.

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