evereste Posted September 11, 2013 Share Posted September 11, 2013 I removed the dead weight and dead air conditioner off the roof of my 85 Dolphin, bought a Fan tas tic fan but haven't a clue how to get it working. I tried connecting to the two wires but there is no power... is it a fuse thing or am I missing something?..you can laugh at me, my kids do.... I'm hopeless at electrics....can't find anything that helps on You Tube... thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Derek up North Posted September 11, 2013 Share Posted September 11, 2013 Which wires are you talking about? The wires that used to power your A/C? Won't work. A/C is 110v, Fantastic fan needs 12v power. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Derek up North Posted September 11, 2013 Share Posted September 11, 2013 The best guide I can offer online. http://www.modmyrv.com/2008/07/28/rv-fantastic-fan Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
evereste Posted September 11, 2013 Author Share Posted September 11, 2013 Wow, thank you for replying in nano second...I tried it with my light too, but nothing? I do see a red and white cable, should I try that? I'm sorry, I'm not good with electrics at all... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
evereste Posted September 11, 2013 Author Share Posted September 11, 2013 Hmmn..I did the light fixture thing,,,and the light works but nothing/ maybe a bad fan? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zero Posted September 11, 2013 Share Posted September 11, 2013 I removed the dead weight and dead air conditioner off the roof of my 85 Dolphin, bought a Fan tas tic fan but haven't a clue how to get it working. I tried connecting to the two wires but there is no power... is it a fuse thing or am I missing something?..you can laugh at me, my kids do.... I'm hopeless at electrics....can't find anything that helps on You Tube... thanks Depend on your RV and what is already in the ceiling for wiring. I recently put a 3 speed Fan-tastic unit in my Chinook. I had to fish new firing through the ceiling and wall. It needs two-lead wire, 12 gauge if your run to the power source is 15 feet, and 14 gauge if 10 feet. Since you had an airc conditioning unit up there -the 120 volt AC wiring is going to be 12 gauge copper with two insulated wires and a ground (I assume). If you are careful and get those wires unhooked at the other end where your control panel 120 VAC breakers are - you can re-reuse them for a DC circuit. They ought to be unhooked anyway and that's an easy way to do it. The two insulated wires should be white and black. When it was 120 VAC the white wire was neutral and black wire was "hot." To avoid confusion - you can put some red tape on the white wire and make that 12 volts positive. Keep the black for ground. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zero Posted September 11, 2013 Share Posted September 11, 2013 Hmmn..I did the light fixture thing,,,and the light works but nothing/ maybe a bad fan? How many wires do you have coming out of your new vent-fan? Mine only has two but mine is just a three-speed vent-fan and no light and no rain sensor. I suspect tapping into your light circuit is not a great idea if you want the best from that fan unless you've got some big wiring. That fan draws 3 amps and if there's 15 feet of wire between the fan and the power-center - it needs 12 gauge wire just for the fan not counting the lights. For example - RVs often have one set of wires powering all the interior lights. Let's say it's 14 gauge wire, 15 feet long and there are three lights. Each light might draw around 2 amps unless you've got LEDs. If you had three lights on plus the fan - all hooked to the same wire - that's 9 amps. 9 amps on a 15 foot long wire that is 14 gauge results is a 6% voltage drop. The standard allowed drop is usually 2%. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Maineah Posted September 11, 2013 Share Posted September 11, 2013 I run mine off the lighting circuit works fine. The lights are wired with #12 wire. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zero Posted September 11, 2013 Share Posted September 11, 2013 I run mine off the lighting circuit works fine. The lights are wired with #12 wire. We don't know how many lights you have, what kind of lights you have, how long your wire run is, what your vent-fan draws, and what the definition of "fine" is. When it comes to low draw stuff like a fan and lights - a substantial voltage drop doesn't usually hurt anything. It just makes the lights dimmer then they ought to be and the fan will run slower. Seems to me if someone paid money for a new appliance and wants the most out of it - might as well do it right. I noticed when stripping this Winnebago Phasar I have here - all the wire runs in the walls and ceilings for the lights are 12 gauge wire - like your's. That is pretty substantial. Good for 8 amps along a 10 foot long run before loss climbs higher then 2%. On the other hand, my 78 Toyota Chinook has 16 gauge wiring in the walls which is barely adequate for a few lights. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bob C Posted September 11, 2013 Share Posted September 11, 2013 Use your VOM (voltmeter) to determine if you have power supplied to those wires. I would unplug the shore power and check for DC voltage first and then plug in the shore power and see if you have 120 volt AC (alternating current.) I hope that you do not have 120 volt power because if you hooked up a 12 volt fan to it, the fan is now trashed. I would also use jumper wires (or remove the fan) and hook the fan up up to your truck battery to see if it works. You never know, maybe the new fan doesn't work to begin with. My A/C is powered through a junction box located in the overhead cabinet on the driver's side. The junction box is labeled "120 VOLT FOR AIR CONDITIONER." I like to test all items before I go to the trouble of installing them to make sure that they work properly. I have bought a few items that did not work and saved the trouble of installing them. This includes the new stereo that I bought last year for the cab. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Maineah Posted September 12, 2013 Share Posted September 12, 2013 Well #12 wire is rated at 20 amps the fuse is 15 amp 4 1157 bulbs and the fan is around 12 amps I feel safe with that even at 2% so I lose a 1/4 of a volt that may cost me a few RPM I'll take it for the simplicity. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
evereste Posted September 12, 2013 Author Share Posted September 12, 2013 Thank you all for the help...I have a feeling the fan is a dud, I've tried hooking it up to the ceiling light (which is bright) and nothing at all..it was an open box, maybe they tried to pass it on? BTW what do you mean by 'shore? I'm a novice Cheers all Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
evereste Posted September 12, 2013 Author Share Posted September 12, 2013 Use your VOM (voltmeter) to determine if you have power supplied to those wires. I would unplug the shore power and check for DC voltage first and then plug in the shore power and see if you have 120 volt AC (alternating current.) I hope that you do not have 120 volt power because if you hooked up a 12 volt fan to it, the fan is now trashed. I would also use jumper wires (or remove the fan) and hook the fan up up to your truck battery to see if it works. You never know, maybe the new fan doesn't work to begin with. My A/C is powered through a junction box located in the overhead cabinet on the driver's side. The junction box is labeled "120 VOLT FOR AIR CONDITIONER." I like to test all items before I go to the trouble of installing them to make sure that they work properly. I have bought a few items that did not work and saved the trouble of installing them. This includes the new stereo that I bought last year for the cab. the Ac/roof wires (120 v) don't seem to be live..or isn't connected.. hmmn Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
evereste Posted September 12, 2013 Author Share Posted September 12, 2013 Which wires are you talking about? The wires that used to power your A/C? Won't work. A/C is 110v, Fantastic fan needs 12v power. yes, i considered trying those thick ones, but thought better of it... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
evereste Posted September 12, 2013 Author Share Posted September 12, 2013 The best guide I can offer online. http://www.modmyrv.com/2008/07/28/rv-fantastic-fan I did this first time...must be a bad fan thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Derek up North Posted September 12, 2013 Share Posted September 12, 2013 BTW what do you mean by 'shore? I'm a novice Cheers all RVers are a bunch of frustrated sailors. 'Shore power' is when you plug your 110v into the house. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
waiter Posted September 12, 2013 Share Posted September 12, 2013 On my Dolphin, there is a junction box in the ceiling for the 110 volt for the Air Conditioner. They are capped off and not used. However, I do have a power vent fan in that roof vent, the 12 volt wires run from the cabinet to the fan in a small plastic conduit thats glued to the ceiling. You can see them in this photo. John Mc 88 Dolphin 4 Auto Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zero Posted September 12, 2013 Share Posted September 12, 2013 Well #12 wire is rated at 20 amps the fuse is 15 amp 4 1157 bulbs and the fan is around 12 amps I feel safe with that even at 2% so I lose a 1/4 of a volt that may cost me a few RPM I'll take it for the simplicity. #12 copper has an ampacity rating of 20 amps. That has nothing to do with voltage drop and if it's the correct size for anything. It simply means that if used with a 20 amp fuse - the fuse will blow before the wire melts. That is why at times, a 20 amp circuit needs #6 or #8 wire (like with my well pump). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bob C Posted September 12, 2013 Share Posted September 12, 2013 "Shore power" is a term used by boaters for 120 volt power from a source that you plug into such as an outlet on a dock. Sorry about that. I should have said external power. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Maineah Posted September 12, 2013 Share Posted September 12, 2013 Yes current draw it has ever thing to do with voltage drop. 20 amps is its capacity before it overheats but without amp load you cannot figure VD that is why I stated probable current draw. You need to know length, resistance, amp load and wire size or VD= 2X R X I X L divided by CM (wire diameter) that will give you voltage drop. If you have a well that is 400’ deep and 100’ from the house you better had upgrade the wire to a larger size. Mine is 120’ deep and 15’ from the panel box feed with a #12 wire well within the NEC acceptable limit of voltage drop also they are 240 volt motors meaning two wires carry the load not one so the current is 50% per wire. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zero Posted September 12, 2013 Share Posted September 12, 2013 I've got a 650 foot run from my well-tank control to the pump at the near bottom of the well. 1 horse, 240 volts, 20 amp circuit (per line), and calls for a minimum of #8 copper wire. In my area, 120 volt submerged pumps are pretty much unheard of. Above ground jet pumps, yes. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
evereste Posted September 13, 2013 Author Share Posted September 13, 2013 Took fan back, and the new one worked instantly..good thing I tested before installing.... is it ok to use the fan to blow air in> seems it's designed to extract? Thanks everyone for all the help.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
waiter Posted September 13, 2013 Share Posted September 13, 2013 Mine has a forward/reverse switch, Its also wired to a thermostat on the wall so it can turn on/off with temperature. You might consider installing one of those "MaxxAire" covers. that way you can leave the vent open, even if its raining outside. John Mc 88 Dolphin 4 Auto Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Maineah Posted September 13, 2013 Share Posted September 13, 2013 I bought one on serious sale that had a thermostat, 3 spds, reversed and had a rain sensor. All though the rain sensor works it has some quirks if the rain is light it will close, dry out and open only to get rained on again and close up! I think I would have put the sensor outside instead of under the cover It however is great if you leave the camper and it rains. The fix of course would be a cover but I like the light it lets in. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
evereste Posted September 14, 2013 Author Share Posted September 14, 2013 Well, I'm back... I installed the functioning fan but now none of my cabin lights are working? I'm guessing a fuse or something? I did take off the ceiling) I replaced the water damaged original, so not difficult, just a few screws) to see if I'd somehow cut a wire but it looks fine...i checked the fuses under the steering wheel and all look good...hmmm help. I need the bus for a show tomorrow, it serves as a dressing room for myself and band... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
linda s Posted September 14, 2013 Share Posted September 14, 2013 Well, I'm back... I installed the functioning fan but now none of my cabin lights are working? I'm guessing a fuse or something? I did take off the ceiling) I replaced the water damaged original, so not difficult, just a few screws) to see if I'd somehow cut a wire but it looks fine...i checked the fuses under the steering wheel and all look good...hmmm help. I need the bus for a show tomorrow, it serves as a dressing room for myself and band... The fuses for your coach section are in your power center. Should be somewhere inside the coach, square metal face on a cabinet with a drop down front. Fuses inside Linda S Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Maineah Posted September 14, 2013 Share Posted September 14, 2013 This ^ they maybe behind a little plate held on with a screw in you converter/breaker panel in other words you may not see them with out taking the plate off. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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