Pat Posted July 18, 2007 Share Posted July 18, 2007 (edited) Looking at a '87 Sunrader that does not have air conditioning. Would like to add it. Are they pre wired? Can I get this done for under $1000? Does it just go thru the rear vent? Edited July 18, 2007 by Pat Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
picklebill Posted July 20, 2007 Share Posted July 20, 2007 Pat - We bought a 1982 18 foot Sunrader that had a Coleman AC on the roof ( it does go through the rear vent). The AC had been on the coach for about 5 years and had caused a goodly sized sag in the roof which caused the water to pool under the AC and leak into the coach. We removed it and installed the stock style vent. Had to jack the roof up from the inside and leave it that way for awhile to remove the sag. The Sunrader roofs are only about 1" thick and in my opinion, are not strong enough to support the weight. You may be able to figure out a way to add some support. And yes, there were both 120VAC and 12 VDC fed to the rear vent by the factory in our unit. Some folks have used the Fantastic Fan type powered vents and say they work almost as good as air conditioning - hopefully someone will respond to this topic with some suggestions for strengthening the roof. Hope this helps. Bill Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
turtle Posted July 20, 2007 Share Posted July 20, 2007 The Sunrader roofs are only about 1" thick and in my opinion, are not strong enough to support the weight. Sunrader started adding an internal roof truss in mid year 1990 and from then on until they stopped production in 1991 to support the AC unit. Late 1990 and all 1991 coaches do not have any issues with roof sag from the weight of an added AC unit. You can try adding a 1" riser on the roof and seal it to the roof with something like lexel (or double sided eternabond), then cover it with metal backed eternabond and a roof sealer like Dyco 20/20. This will require occasional maintenance to ensure there are no leaks. It might not stop the sag but it should keep water from coming in. Using a smaller lighter AC unit would be advisable also Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sharpest Posted July 20, 2007 Share Posted July 20, 2007 7/20/07 Pat, I am very interested in the answers you get on this question about roof AC for a Sunrader. We, like you, are new to all of this. We purchased a 1983 Sunrader a couple of months ago and we are looking at getting a roof AC. If you don't mind I would like to ask a few questions to the more experienced owners: 1. I have seen new 13,500 BTU roof AC units weighing in the 75-85lb range. Is this much lighter that the ones used 10-15 years ago? If there is a major difference in the weight of new versus old how much of a factor would that be relating to roof sag? 2. In your opinion is the installation of a new roof AC better than it was 10-15 years ago? I ask this question knowing that roof leakage is a big problem and perhaps the newer units are installed with better seals? 3. Has anyone who owns an older Sunrader actually reinforced their roofs to support an AC unit? Thanks everyone for the help. Bob Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pat Posted July 21, 2007 Author Share Posted July 21, 2007 7/20/07Pat, I am very interested in the answers you get on this question about roof AC for a Sunrader. We, like you, are new to all of this. We purchased a 1983 Sunrader a couple of months ago and we are looking at getting a roof AC. If you don't mind I would like to ask a few questions to the more experienced owners: Go for it! And lets hope they give us some help. So far I have found out that the unit I am going to look at is suppose to be pre-wired for the roof AC. And the install should take about a hour at a dealer. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
motoyhomme Posted August 2, 2007 Share Posted August 2, 2007 I have a 83 Sunrader 21 ft with an old Coleman 13,500 BTU air conditioner mounted on the front vent (center of MH). When I first purchased it, it had an aluminum support frame that the AC unit sat on and the frame legs went to the sides of the roof thus keeping the AC weight off the center of the roof. One of the legs broke one day and the unit shifted a little and allowed a little water to get past the seal. I removed the aluminum frame and purchased a new seal and placed the unit straight to the roof with no additional sag. I have never had a leak on the roof since installing the new gasket. The newer Coleman units may be a little lighter than the old ones. All of the Sunraders were pre-wired at one of the vents, I think. Allen 83 Sunrader Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pat Posted August 3, 2007 Author Share Posted August 3, 2007 Got the 9000 btu Coleman Polar Cub. It is taking up a bay in my garage with some other stuff. It is suppose to weight 88 lbs when installed. Found the wiring in the front vent. That vent has roof cross supports just in front and to the rear of the opening. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sharpest Posted August 8, 2007 Share Posted August 8, 2007 Pat, I wrote to you earlier about an AC unit on a Sunrader. I hope this AC unit works for you. Please let me how things go as I will probably buy one as well. Thanks and good luck. Bob Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pat Posted August 9, 2007 Author Share Posted August 9, 2007 Bob, Have not got it up there yet. Waiting for one of my sons to be around long enough to help me out (one hauls cars coast to coast and the other is a paramedic in a small city about 45 minutes away), and when I stop and think about it they are both to heavy for that roof! Maybe I better find someone else to do it. I reviewed the instructions and it looks very straight forward. The wiring is up there just waiting for the a/c. The service mgr at Camping World said that the unit would be more than adequate in cooling down the coach. Got the Coleman Polar Cub 9000. Pat,I wrote to you earlier about an AC unit on a Sunrader. I hope this AC unit works for you. Please let me how things go as I will probably buy one as well. Thanks and good luck. Bob Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Redwood Posted August 11, 2007 Share Posted August 11, 2007 wonder if anybody has thought of, or Done this... ? I talked to someone selling a toyota rv.. his dad used a 'portable' A/C unit, with a generator.. I guess, one that you put into a window... ? I didn't SEE it, just thought that was an interesting solution... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sharpest Posted August 14, 2007 Share Posted August 14, 2007 Pat, What kind of generator do you have for your Sunrader? Thanks, Bob Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Joseph Posted June 8, 2017 Share Posted June 8, 2017 Anyone got a ac unit for sale? old one has been removed 20,000 but 400 pound monster someone jerry rigged damaged the roof installing frame supports everywhere but I need something better then those rip off 3500 BTUs that weighs about 100 pounds or so for a 25 amp generator installing a decent ac unit on a damaged roof is going to take some work and it can't be a giant anyone can help please do the heat is killing me. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MaineErik Posted June 8, 2017 Share Posted June 8, 2017 43 minutes ago, Joseph said: Anyone got a ac unit for sale? I just removed the Coleman Mach unit from our roof and installed a skylight in it's place. We don't use AC in general, so the pure light is a much better alt for us. Where are you located, I'd be happy to sell the unit, works perfectly. (I'm in Maine) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nam Posted June 8, 2017 Share Posted June 8, 2017 On 8/10/2007 at 5:44 PM, Redwood said: wonder if anybody has thought of, or Done this... ? I talked to someone selling a toyota rv.. his dad used a 'portable' A/C unit, with a generator.. I guess, one that you put into a window... ? I didn't SEE it, just thought that was an interesting solution... Oh no no window unit hanging out of a window. Some of us (myself included) installed an 8000 BTU unit above the fridge which takes advantage of the air draft behind the propane fridge to mount the window AC unit. Mine works really well. I had to cut the siding to install louver but you can't even tell. Roof top unit is a no no for me besides the weight it drags and it increases vertical clearances as well Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jjrbus Posted June 8, 2017 Share Posted June 8, 2017 Above the fridge? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Joseph Posted June 9, 2017 Share Posted June 9, 2017 Not a bad idea but I dont have quite enough room above my fridge its where I store all my dry food even if it were strong enough to hold anyway, damn at least I fixed my refrigerator no flow problem without tearing it out a trick no one has figured out yet dont know why it makes sense. Thx anyway guess I'll have to save up for a class b ac unit smaller but better then nothing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Joseph Posted June 12, 2017 Share Posted June 12, 2017 Took your advice found a Kenmore 5000 not the coldest but for a tiny rv with weathering insulation it will do quite well, it will stick out a little bit I will need a roof fan and to rig up some exterior vents properly but looks simple and it was cheap 69 miles only 6$ in gas going foot to the floor losing speed uphill on highways Elizabeth was happy that and the near finish of my roof repair more stable in the wind now Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WME Posted June 12, 2017 Share Posted June 12, 2017 I've seen a room A/C mounted in the side of RV, they used HD ball bearing drawer slides to mount it. Pull in for travel and push it out when parked. It was a neat installation. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Joseph Posted June 15, 2017 Share Posted June 15, 2017 I thought of that but my fridge is so tight in place it would lose circulation, going to cut out entire area around top of fridge to cabinet then build around so the entire exterior vents in from the bottom and out from the top then just build another space on top of ac for a small area to set things on the same size as original just 11 inches higher. I shouldn't need a fan then if fridge gas circulates around from exhausted area 3 inches to work with after ac install and it was so cheap I've spent 6 hours bending the condenser fins straight again over half done. Credit cards work great making radiator fins straight again just takes forever if its all smushed in. Thought of cutting exterior and letting a couple inches hang out make everything easier but I dont think my fridge would like that just barely saved it lines are rusted and plugged overheats easy when vapor runs back up the cooling tubes have to keep the back end up or the collector won't flow right unlevel not bent found they run better if water ammonia mix collects more at the dump port on cooler to collector at least a 20 year old barely functional one. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nam Posted June 18, 2017 Share Posted June 18, 2017 The 8000 BTU unit above the fridge has been working well for me for almost three years. I had to cut the exterior (below the awning) too. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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