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Window latch for Chinook


MontanaChinook

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One is broken, the other might as well be replaced. I can't find my exact latch. This is the closest to it I can find.

http://www.all-rite.com/kinro-window-latch-p-412.html

I'm sure I could make it work. But even working right, it's not very secure. Any know of an upgrade, or what would be involved in upgrading?

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Is the latch in the photo with the three pop-rivets the orginal in your 1978? My 1978 Chinook and both my 77s use lactches held on by two screws spaced 1 7/8" apart (on center).

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My 1986 sunrader has a solid aluminum latch with three rivets. I don't see how it could break - or - someone replaced with the all aluminum one piece latch. the one in the above picture looks plastic?

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There's only a way for me to know if anything on this isnt original if there's evidence of it being changed out, or if they did a crappy Job. Otherwise I have no way of knowing. There aren't a lot of these around...I'm just assuming its original, especially with the rivets.

This is a 78 Newport model.

Yes, plastic. The other one is missing the piece that actually holds the window closed.

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One is broken, the other might as well be replaced. I can't find my exact latch. This is the closest to it I can find.

http://www.all-rite.com/kinro-window-latch-p-412.html

I'm sure I could make it work. But even working right, it's not very secure. Any know of an upgrade, or what would be involved in upgrading?

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First make it work since you think you can. Then for security head to just about any local hardware store and purchase a simple thumb screw lock that slips over sliding window tracks. I like those little thumb screw locks as you can adjust them so the window can't be opened at all or it can be opened a few inches for a bit of ventilation.

You can't really put a dowel rod in an RV window that has curved corners as it just wants to slide up when pressure is against it. That is why I use the thumb screw track locks. If you are worried about someone reaching in and turning that thumb screw then replace it with a set screw that requires an Allen wrench to turn it.

http://www.homedepot.com/p/Prime-Line-Aluminum-Sliding-Window-Lock-with-Thumbscrew-U-9800/100212527#.UUtMmFeDmSo

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usually they move from aluminum to plastic not the other way around; strange.

anyhow, this is what mine have ; riveted in place. the genius is the single part BOM; nothing to break no springs. simply line this puppy up with one of your old holes, pop rivet in place.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Aluminum-Sliding-Window-Latch-and-Pull-for-HiLite-Convertible-Windows-/170865843914?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item27c865deca

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I used an aluminum spring-loaded cam-lock latch I got from Pelland on my 1978 Chinook. Works fine and I like the tapered cam-lock. It puts a little tension on the window. The screw-holes were wider apart but that was no big deal. The original plastic latch was held on by two sheet-metal screws. So I just drilled two new holes. I have no fondness for pop-rivets. I like something I can remove with a screwdriver and retighten when wanted. Hehr "sweep latch" part # H221-154

http://www.pellandent.com/Motorhome_Product_Details.aspx?ProductID=6261&Return=71

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