ToyoGuy Posted December 7, 2012 Share Posted December 7, 2012 Anybody removed their Sunrader rear access doors and (much) later found they don't mate well to the body curve? I'm trying to decide the best way to tackle this without potting it in with tons-o-caulk. Seems like I have to either make up some tapering rubber gaskets for the sides, with straight ones for top and bottom, or see if I can clamp the sides straight and reinforce with hardwood to hold the shape. The door flanges are extruded aluminum and cannot be bent ( let alone the door ). If I reinforce to straighten, and it holds, I get something to screw the flange to as a second benefit. Sounds easy, but 1/8" fiberglass has a definite memory. The attached picture is the propane port, but the water heater wall on the other side is similarly curved. Can't think of where I would find hard rubber material to taper down on a stationary sander. Any thoughts...? TG Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
waiter Posted December 7, 2012 Share Posted December 7, 2012 If that gap on the top and bottom runs across the entire top and bottom (i.e. 1/8 inch gap across entire top) then fill it with a piece of wood or metal strip. Maybe 1/2 in wide by 1/8 thick by 24 inch long (or however long you need it). The screws for the door would go thru this to secure it and also add support. Do the usual bytyl tape. I then carefully tape it edges off with blue painter tape, and then caulk with a polyurethane sealant. John Mc 88 Dolphin 4 Auto Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dolphinite no longer here Posted December 8, 2012 Share Posted December 8, 2012 ToyoGuy, I've run into this problem on boats before and here's what I did: I bought one of those 1/2" thick nylon cutting boards at Bed Bath And Beyond (get a big one!) and cut it into strips as wide as the door frame metal. With a disc sander I shaped one side of the strip to the curve of the fiberglass and left the other side flat for the door frame to sit on. This approach takes more butyl stuff because you have to use it between the nylon and the fiberglass and between the nylon and the door frame. The screws have to be a little longer, too but it makes for a very professional looking job. To really trick it out, you can cut the nylon stuff about 1/8" wider than you need and then round over the exposed edge that sticks out past the door frame with a little hand plane or 60 grit sandpaper. John Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ToyoGuy Posted December 8, 2012 Author Share Posted December 8, 2012 Thanks John, As you surmised, the gap is even across top and bottom. ( PTL, Small things make me happy these days) Yours sounds like a sensible plan. Since I have a connection at a place that does plastic vacuum molding, I may see if I can get any suitable plastic scraps from thick material and go with it. I like the idea of strengthening the flange. TG Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ToyoGuy Posted December 8, 2012 Author Share Posted December 8, 2012 Dolphinite, Great idea for material, I keep old cutting boards around the shop for work boards, but I think this rates a new one. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dolphinite no longer here Posted December 8, 2012 Share Posted December 8, 2012 Waiter, I have a question. When you tape around an area to be caulked and then do the caulking, how do you keep the tape from pulling the caulk up into little peaks? Every time I use that method I always end up pulling the caulk up a little bit. I've tried to apply caulk by just using nice, steady pressure and leaving it alone, not tooling it off with my finger, but I'm too shakey. Any ideas? John Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
waiter Posted December 9, 2012 Share Posted December 9, 2012 I'll have to draw a diagram or take some photos, it hard to describe. Caulking is an art-form that I have never been good at, so I use every trick I can so at least it doesn't look like crap. John Mc 88 Dolphin 4 Auto Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eve "n" Stephen Posted December 9, 2012 Share Posted December 9, 2012 One possible material for shaping almost any sticky material that dries is release paper. This is made for the picture framing industry and is impregnated with silicone. Even urethane glue doesn't stick to it. I've used it to shape long, straight, tightly curved caulk along a seam, pressing it in place and leaving it until the caulk is dry, then stripping it off. The stuff is like stiff, but slippery paper, so can be bent/pulled over a sharp edge, to form the curl. If you want to try it on something, most frame shops that do dry or vacuum mounting should be able to sell you a chunk a couple feet square for a buck or so. Steve Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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