campergal Posted April 28, 2012 Share Posted April 28, 2012 Hi all, Campergal here...still trying to get out camping. I'm going to try an upload some pics for you to see. In addition, we've torn out the side wall on teh overhead, using waiter's pics and it is sopping wet from the leak caused by the gaping ceiling and roof. We need some ideas since we'll be working again on it this weekend. Too confusing to load pics but to clarify, there is about a three foot area where the side wall is completely pulled away from the roof. Openings go from about 3/4 in to 1/4 inch. wall is warped away from roof. Cleaned out the opening as much as possible, took out rotted wood. Glue, no glue, screw down, drill new holes, sister new wood somewhere????? We need help Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bajadulce Posted April 28, 2012 Share Posted April 28, 2012 That looks pretty ugly. Sorry to hear. Can't really tell a whole lot from picture and am not familiar with that rig, but looks like you need to pull off some more stuff both on the inside and outside such as that white piece of trim. The wall needs to be put back into place so you can refasten the roof. You might be able to use a strap and pull the wall from the inside using your overhead cab cutout as an anchor or maybe push it back into place from the outside using a brace of sorts. Looks like the roof was stapled at one time judging by those rusty looking slots. You'll prob want to use something else such as flathead screws and some construction adhesive. Question is do you have anything to fasten to? You might have to tear into the wall a bit to rebuild some framework, possibly add some sort of block or maybe even use some galvanized sheet metal brackets commonly used in framing. After all that, you might investigate into some of the metacrylic tape they use on mobil home roofs to wrap that seam before putting the trim back on. definitely get some more pics up so others can chime in. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
waiter Posted April 28, 2012 Share Posted April 28, 2012 Heres a little drawing I made up. Somewhat generic in nature, but should give you an idea of how that part is assembled. The roof metal folds over the side and is stapled. The trim piece is then installed with screws. You'll probably need to remove the trim piece, save it and be very careful as you'll want to re-use it. If you have this damage at the top, odds are, the bottom is just as bad or worst. The outer skin and the inner wall are glued to the foam and studs, use Liquid nails. I've heard of some people replacing the foam and studs with plywood, it adds a lot of weight, but solves some structural problems John Mc 88 Dolphin 4 Auto Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
campergal Posted April 28, 2012 Author Share Posted April 28, 2012 Thanks for your and Waiter's assistance, we'll try to get more pics of all angles today so we can give you and others a better view. We're a couple of 50 somethings getting married in July and this is our honeymoon vehicle so we'd like some kind of a temporary fix until we can find a place to work on it and the time to do it right. This is a model 500 dolphin. Pristine inside 50,000 miles with this roof problem and a water leak behind the shower adding more rot to this side of the rV. I had a dolphin for years. We want this to be our adventure mobile for years to come. Stay tuned for more pics, any help is good, my sweetie does really good with pictures to work from. He wants to know how thick the roof and side wall wood is to work with. That looks pretty ugly. Sorry to hear. Can't really tell a whole lot from picture and am not familiar with that rig, but looks like you need to pull off some more stuff both on the inside and outside such as that white piece of trim. The wall needs to be put back into place so you can refasten the roof. You might be able to use a strap and pull the wall from the inside using your overhead cab cutout as an anchor or maybe push it back into place from the outside using a brace of sorts. Looks like the roof was stapled at one time judging by those rusty looking slots. You'll prob want to use something else such as flathead screws and some construction adhesive. Question is do you have anything to fasten to? You might have to tear into the wall a bit to rebuild some framework, possibly add some sort of block or maybe even use some galvanized sheet metal brackets commonly used in framing. After all that, you might investigate into some of the metacrylic tape they use on mobil home roofs to wrap that seam before putting the trim back on. definitely get some more pics up so others can chime in. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Derek up North Posted April 28, 2012 Share Posted April 28, 2012 With our 'sticks & staples' homes, I think you'll be lucky if you find anything more substantial than a 1"x2". Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
waiter Posted April 28, 2012 Share Posted April 28, 2012 Walls are about 1inch think (total) roof is about 1 1/2 total. JOhn Mc 88 Dolphin 4 Auto Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dolphinite no longer here Posted April 28, 2012 Share Posted April 28, 2012 Hi Campergal, Looks like you've got a bit of a mess there. The wood framing inside the walls is probably rotted away and that's why the screws and staples holding your wall/roof joint together have let go. If you haven't already done so, I'd suggest that you remove the interior wall and part of the inside ceiling in that area so that you can see what's going on. Or did you already do so? (I wasn't sure after reading your message) The framing inside the walls is common lumber 1 x 2, stapled, screwed and, sometimes, glued together. The 1 x 2s are on the flat side so your wall thickness is about 3/4". For a temporary repair, you're going to have to find a way to push or pull that side wall back into place and figure out how fasten it there for your upcoming July trip. Is there a piece of corner molding that goes over that joint? More pictures of inside and outside would help. John Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
waiter Posted April 29, 2012 Share Posted April 29, 2012 John, The roof metal folds over the side and is stapled, then it has that trim piece screwed into the 1x2 to help hold it together. You can see this in my drawing. Might be able to dig out the bad 1x2 that runs along the roof, put a new one in there and re-staple (or tapered screws) then reinstall the trim piece with new screws that go into the 1x2 John Mc 88 DOlphin 4 Auto Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
campergal Posted May 1, 2012 Author Share Posted May 1, 2012 Hi John, The roof wood seems to be fairly solid. Was thinking about getting a 4 ft. peice of 90 degree roof flashing and sliding one side between metal and wood of roof and securing through metal to roof wood, maybe four 1 1/4 inch hex rubber washer screws with liguid nails under the flashing and then pre-drilling holes on other side of flashing to screw side wall back in. What do you think? We've already torn out all rot on the inside side wall and bed base. Putting new framing in bed base and new 1/2 plywood on side wall. Hi Campergal, Looks like you've got a bit of a mess there. The wood framing inside the walls is probably rotted away and that's why the screws and staples holding your wall/roof joint together have let go. If you haven't already done so, I'd suggest that you remove the interior wall and part of the inside ceiling in that area so that you can see what's going on. Or did you already do so? (I wasn't sure after reading your message) The framing inside the walls is common lumber 1 x 2, stapled, screwed and, sometimes, glued together. The 1 x 2s are on the flat side so your wall thickness is about 3/4". For a temporary repair, you're going to have to find a way to push or pull that side wall back into place and figure out how fasten it there for your upcoming July trip. Is there a piece of corner molding that goes over that joint? More pictures of inside and outside would help. John Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bajadulce Posted May 1, 2012 Share Posted May 1, 2012 The extra flashing would definitely help keep water out of the seam and I like the plan. Little confused as to where the screws are going? If the roof metal is folded back over the wall as it originally was and the screws go through the folded roof section and then flashing, all would seem good. I wouldn't however use any screws on the "roof" part of the roof if that makes any sense. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
waiter Posted May 1, 2012 Share Posted May 1, 2012 I agree with Steve (Bajadulce) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
campergal Posted May 8, 2012 Author Share Posted May 8, 2012 Hi waiter, while we try and let the side wall and roof dry out before attempting to reconnect I saw your pics of the small air conditioner. We found one at home depot only 18 inches across and 15 inches high. We'd like to install over the refer like I think you did. Would the airflow from the refer "chimney" be enough for a small air conditioner too. What did you do to keep the condensation from running down your refer vent area? thanks in advance for your response. campergal. Walls are about 1inch think (total) roof is about 1 1/2 total. JOhn Mc 88 Dolphin 4 Auto Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
campergal Posted May 8, 2012 Author Share Posted May 8, 2012 Hi Bajadulce, The problem seems to be that the roof has warped up away from the side wall by about 1/2 inch. then the metal has separated from the wood but is still laying flat. If we stand on the roof at the edge, it goes down a little, hopefully enough to screw in the side wall. I was thinking of putting self drilling metal screws with rubber gaskets from the top screwed down through the new metal flashing and into the 1 1/2 plywood of the roof top and then pressing the side walls in enough to screw them in through the trim, flashing and into the roof plywood side. Do you think that would work and if we cover the gasketed screws with roof seal wouldn't that mitigate teh problem with the screws? The other problem is that it is still damp in the seam and under the roof metal. The extra flashing would definitely help keep water out of the seam and I like the plan. Little confused as to where the screws are going? If the roof metal is folded back over the wall as it originally was and the screws go through the folded roof section and then flashing, all would seem good. I wouldn't however use any screws on the "roof" part of the roof if that makes any sense. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
waiter Posted May 8, 2012 Share Posted May 8, 2012 Refer the A/C unit - Read through the entire thread - there is a lot of discussion on how the condensate is drained (A/C unit modified and a hose is run down and exits out through the floor of the Toyhouse under the frig) and also some Infrared photos on the heat signatures through the top vet and the side vent. Refer to the roof - Look carefully, you'll find the side wall has bowed out, you should pull the sidewall back in so that the roof will fold back over the side thats shown in the drawing. Stand behind the vehicle and look down the side, you should see it bowed out. Its easy to pull back in, take the windows out on both sides, have two helpers hold a 2x4 across the outside of the windows on each side, then, from the inside, run a ratchet strap around one 2x4, across the inside of the toyhouse and out the other window, Wrap around the other 2x4. Tighten the strap and the bowed out side should pull in. Use a short 2x4 on the bowed side, use a long 2x4 on the straight side John Mc 88 Dolphin 4 Auto Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Maineah Posted May 8, 2012 Share Posted May 8, 2012 Waiter's 100% on the wall you will have to get it pulled back in and secured if you stand any chance of sealing the leak. They put the roof on last and fold the edges over the side walls, staple it to keep it in place then the trim sealant then the trim piece is screwed on over the roof and wall edge to keep every thing in place. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
campergal Posted May 9, 2012 Author Share Posted May 9, 2012 Great idea to pull side back in. Well do that. In terms of the air conditioner, would it work for us to install in the cabinet above the fridge? Is there enough air flow over the refer? Thanks much Refer the A/C unit - Read through the entire thread - there is a lot of discussion on how the condensate is drained (A/C unit modified and a hose is run down and exits out through the floor of the Toyhouse under the frig) and also some Infrared photos on the heat signatures through the top vet and the side vent. Refer to the roof - Look carefully, you'll find the side wall has bowed out, you should pull the sidewall back in so that the roof will fold back over the side thats shown in the drawing. Stand behind the vehicle and look down the side, you should see it bowed out. Its easy to pull back in, take the windows out on both sides, have two helpers hold a 2x4 across the outside of the windows on each side, then, from the inside, run a ratchet strap around one 2x4, across the inside of the toyhouse and out the other window, Wrap around the other 2x4. Tighten the strap and the bowed out side should pull in. Use a short 2x4 on the bowed side, use a long 2x4 on the straight side John Mc 88 Dolphin 4 Auto Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
waiter Posted May 9, 2012 Share Posted May 9, 2012 regarding the A/C above the frig, that's where mine is. read through all the posts in that thread, there is a lot of discussion regarding air flow and condensate drain. http://toyotamotorhome.org/forums/index.php?showtopic=4077 John Mc 88 Dolphin 4 Auto Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
campergal Posted May 10, 2012 Author Share Posted May 10, 2012 Great Idea! I cut out the cabinet today while waiting for the roof and side wall to dry out. How did you fish your power plug through the refer cabinet, seems pretty tight? When you drilled the hole for the air conditioner drain, did you take the factory bottom off the air conditioner? I'm still learning how to navigate this site and I can't find your pics of installing the air conditioner again. Thanks for all your help! Great idea to pull side back in. Well do that. In terms of the air conditioner, would it work for us to install in the cabinet above the fridge? Is there enough air flow over the refer? Thanks much Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
waiter Posted May 10, 2012 Share Posted May 10, 2012 The photos are in the thread reply's. You need to be logged in to write a reply, so you should be able to see the photos. If you click on this link, it should open up the thread Howto - Window A/C in Dolphin You should see two of the photos near the top of the thread. (there are 10 photos in that first thread entry) if you click on the photo, they should enlarge so it makes it easier to see. There are over 50 entries in that thread, read them all. John Mc 88 Dolphin 4 Auto Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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