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The Toyota dealer wants $400 for the power steering feed line as an assembly. Since most of it's metal and looks great I'm gonna get the rubber hose section replaced by a shop that can do that. But discovered some weepage from the top of the gearbox. Seal kit for this is $125 from mr. Toyota and looks like a bunch of O rings. Saw the LUCAS power steering rack & pinion / gearbox conditioner / leak stopper at auto parts store with money back if not satisified. Anyone ever try this??? Since replacing the top seal requires removal of the gearbox and that looks hard I am tempted.

vanman

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Always try the $5 fix before the $125 fix.

Most of the chemical fixes tend to soften and puff up the o-rings, it may work!!

JOhn Mc

88 Dolphin 4 Auto

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Danger Will Robinson..... The Toyotas use Dexron ATF in the power steering assy. The use of any "normal" power steering stuff often leads to problems. Maybe Lucas transmission leak stop????

WME

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I found out about the Dextron Trans fluid in power steering here on the forum. As soon as I checked it out, I put a tag on the cover of the power steering fluid with that information to avoid someone (such as oil change shop) putting the incorrect fluid in it.

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WME

Danger Will Robinson..... The Toyotas use Dexron ATF in the power steering assy. The use of any power steering stuff often leads to problems. Maybe Lucas transmission leak stop????

All the cars and trucks I've owned or worked on that had power steering use DEX ATF for fluid so I assumed that it was power steering fluid. This Lucas product is to be mixed with ATF. I was just thinking that with the age of these RV's someone had tried this product already. Our Dolphin is a 91 with 80K on it so it's newer than most and the dealer said the steering is the same on the dually pick-ups. Lucas makes a transmission leak stop but it's different than the power steering product, different bottle / label anyway.

vanman

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waiter

Always try the $5 fix before the $125 fix.Most of the chemical fixes tend to soften and puff up the o-rings, it may work!!

JOhn Mc88 Dolphin 4 Auto

Yeah that's what I was thinking, the thing is the high pressure in the feed side of the PS pump. Does anyone know how high this pressure is ???? As a side note the book I do have says that if you have the anti-lock brake system the pressure generated by the PS pump is used in the control system such that bleeding the PS system requires bleeding the brakes as well using "an electronic brake tester, an expensive unit usually found only at dealers." I have never heard of that system before.

EDIT : I should have mentioned that this applies to only the system they call " RWAL" ABS. This book covers pick-ups/land cruiser/4runner.

vanman

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waiter

Always try the $5 fix before the $125 fix.Most of the chemical fixes tend to soften and puff up the o-rings, it may work!!

JOhn Mc88 Dolphin 4 Auto

Yeah that's what I was thinking, the thing is the high pressure in the feed side of the PS pump. Does anyone know how high this pressure is ????

As a side note the book I do have says that if you have the anti-lock brake system the pressure generated by the PS pump is used in the control system such that bleeding the PS system requires bleeding the brakes as well using "an electronic brake tester, an expensive unit usually found only at dealers." I have never heard of that system before.

vanman

Very high no hose clamps allowed except on the return hose. Many parts houses have the tools to make you a high pressure line for a lot lass money then an OEM replacement and probably can make it while you wait. I would fix the hose first before pouring some thing in the system and see where you stand. ABS connected to the power steering? Some systems do use power steering pumps to apply brake booster pressure not but not ABS but I have never seen one on any Toyota.

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Derek up North

I didn't even think we have ABS. Do we?

According to this book ( Chilton ) it's an option on some models, but they don't say which.

vanman

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I have found the entire hose assy from ACDELCO, GATES and others online for $60 to 95$. But the pictures show the metal line shaped differently, hard to say which one's correct. Also this would be a bear to change methinks. But I also find screw type compression fittings and hose by the foot. Are the metal tube parts just smooth tubing under the factory crimped fittings, and are the threaded compression fittings as reliable as the crimped compression type???

The TOY dealer parts guys are great, he printed out the parts pages for this and the hose shown has a preformed 90 degree bend at the bottom end which seems to explain the splice. But looking at ours no bend, it's all just tubing with a splice in the midddle, the metal tube that runs accross the frame has a 90 degree bend up at this junction not shown on the parts picture. All the hoses look fine, it's just leaking at the splice.

A shop here will replace just the high pressure hose part and bleed out the pump for 305 $ Looking at the cost of the threaded fittings and hose I'm tempted to just let then do it. I am assuming you would have to put it on jackstands to do this, which can get you ticketed where I live, one consideration.<br

What do you mechanics think ???? our appointment is for Monday @ 7:30... Thanks In Advance ...

vanman

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Me I would get some one to make it but your situation is a bit different then mine is in rural Maine. The pump will bleed it's self but it's a good talking point. What's this slice? Does it look like it belongs there?

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Maineah

Me I would get some one to make it but your situation is a bit different then mine is in rural Maine. The pump will bleed it's self but it's a good talking point. What's this slice? Does it look like it belongs there?

Yeah it's factory, is in the copies of the parts book from the Toy dealer, and in all the picts I've found on line. I was thinking it might be a check valve but I guess it's just a splice. Suprising I found a few lines supposedly for a '91 Toy pick-up that are solid metal pipe !! Never heard of that, everything connected to the motor and frame has to have a flexible part or it'll break as the motor moves in it's mounts, so that's gotta be wrong. I am gonna go with the shop to make a tube from the pump fitting to the fixed metal line going to the steering box. The low pressure return lines look great and upon close inspection are sterner stuff then any of the assortment of rubber lines I have in my garage, they are reinforced inside. You can see this at the edges. When I first looked at these return lines I thought they were bad but it wasn't cracks at all I was seeing the fibers between the outer and inner edges. I guess there is a fair amount of pressure in the return lines also???

It's raining now and will be for all this week so I'll let the shop work on the Toy monday while I try to find the a leak in the roof of the house, hoping it'l be dry sometime during the day.

vanman

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Little if any pressure on the return but they often use the same high pressure hose for the return. Some where there has to be some thing flexible you are right it will break in short order.

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Well it's done. What they did was to braze a threaded fitting on each end of the metal tubes and the rubber hose has threaded ends. Looks a little like the flex tube on a lever action grease gun, except the threads are coarser. Looking at it I cannot figure out how they screwed it on, almost think they brazed one end(bottom) with the hose already threaded on. If this is correct it will be a real bear to replace again, not in my time I sure hope. Anyway after spending hours with Gunk, brushes, water to clean up a lot of ATF everywhere we went for a drive and it doesn't leak :):) Total cost $315

But one question, the wiring harness comes to the motor from the pass side fender well right to the PS pump fitting. Just before the fitting it splits into three, the main (large) goes under the hose, a small branch goes down and back amost seems it's going to the transmission, and a small short single wire thats black with a white stripe and 2 red dots goes to a grey fitting that appears to be a connector. The other side of the connector is a wire with a fiber protective sleeve that goes straight accross the motor and into the area under the black plastic cover. The grey connector has a protrusion with prongs that would appear to fit into a slot to secure it. Before the work this wire was stretched tight and you could just see the outer edge of the grey connector. Now it's loose and flappin in the breeze, which is how I can examine the connector and trace the other side as far as I can see it without disassembling everything. I would really like to know what this wire is going to and how to secure it, I have looked diligently for any slot or hole that the connector was at and have come up empty. Help?????...... Now to that leak in the roof...

vanman

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