Superchiem's 3.0 to 3.4 swap

[superchiem]

I thought I would post my swap here as well as yotatech. Seems like there is mix of good knowledge from both sites.

Here is my 1991 Toyota Itasca:

Here is the donor:

I wanted a newer engine with lower miles so I went with an 02 2wd 4runner. I'm still up in the air about using the newer dash harness and splicing in the accessories. I think that would take care of my main concern, which is having the motor running. Then I can worry about the AC, lights, signals, and such later.

Pulling the motor:

I first pulled the tranny and the next day pulled the motor. Pulling the motor was fairly easy. I just wrapped chains around each motor mount and started pumping. I would give it a couple pumps and check for snags. I eventually needed my brothers help to keep it from smashing into things.

Tune up and routine maintenance:

I changed the timing belt and water pump, while the motor was out. Breaking the crankshaft bolt loose was the most timing consuming during maintenance work. I had to make my own pulley holder and chain it to the stand. It took about 240 ft-lbs to finally break it loose.

Cooling, heating and air condition systems:

Looks like I'm going to be using the old A/C pump. It seems to have the best success. That way I can keep it intact.

Fuel and exhaust systems:

I already rotated the high pressure fuel line. Using existing holes I mounted the return line. I bought 2 feet of fuel line and also extended the return line.

Tomorrow I hope I can pull the oil pan and drill a new dip stick hole. Any ideas on drill bit size? I've read 3/8", but seems there's conflicting info out there.

I would also like to modify the alternator bracket. Anybody know how much I need to cut off and reweld?

The toyota dealer near my house doesn't have the union. So I'm going to hold off on the drilling until the 3vz is out. That way I can weld up a drill guide just like ORS'.

Also there is no point in cutting the alternator bracket with out knowing how much I need to cut anyways. So that will have to wait.

Today I pulled the 3.0 radiator, fan, fan clutch, intake box, intake tube, alternator and battery.

Engine Electrical System:

I needed to do something today so I thought I would get the alternator ready for the swap. Instead of splicing in a new connector I just swap voltage regulators.

Here is the 60 amp 3vze alt (left) and 80 amp 5vze alt (right)

They have the same type of pulley. The 3vze's is a little bigger.

Unbolt 3 bolts on the back the alternator holding the case.

Remove the 5 screws holding the voltage regulator.

The case has some differences. So you can't just swap alternator cases.

[superchiem]

Had to grind out the newer case that way the connector from the 3vze can fit into the alternator connector.

Installed and ready for the swap. I also installed the 3vze coolant outlet.

Pulling the motor part 2:

What a day! I asked my future brother in laws to come over and help me pull the tranny out.

We couldn't get the tranny out because the RV doesn't have a removal tranny crossmember. The member is welded in place. So I had to lift the 3vze up alittle and the tranny came right out with all the atf from the torque converter. So since I already unbolted the motor mounts we went to town and decided to pull the whole engine.

It was rough trying to keep the a/c lines intact, but we did it. I wanted to keep the vacuum lines intact for the future buyers, but it wasn't going to happen.

Looks like I have to swap pans, drill the dip stick hole, swap motor mounts, notch the motor mounts, clean up the engine bay, wire wheel rust, paint rusty areas, relocate the battery and then I should be ready to put the 5vze in there. :wrench:

Drilling the block part 1:

I decided to make a drill guide because I am cursed. They might as well change murphy's law to chiem's law it seems like sometimes. So I didn't want to take a chance.

I bought a tube with an I.D. of 3/8 and cut about 1 inch off the 48 inch piece. Trust me I looked and that was the shortest I could find it.

First I hammered the old union out of the 3vz:

Here is the pipe I cut with the U size bit inside of it:

I wanted to build it like ORS, but didn't have large enough scrap metal. So I just used what I could find.

Here it is tacked up:

Had to grind a some off when I test fitted onto the 5vz:

Did you guys remove the exhaust manifold to drill this thing?

Modifying the 5vz Baffle:

I tried to measure up the 3vz holes with the 5vz holes. Using the ribs, but ended up about 2 jigsaw blades off. Kind of frustrating, but it went on when I tried installing the pickup tube with baffle at the same time. I may try to fix it tomorrow morning, but we'll see how the day unfolds.

Well didn't have much time, but was able to cut a little more out of the baffle plate and installed the baffle and oil sump.

[superchiem]

There's also a small tab in front of the baffle. This tab needs to be bent up about 90 degrees and the oil pan should fit perfect.

Still need to get a right angle drill adapter to drill into the block. Don't want to dish out that cash though.

Also if you guys were wondering if radio flyer can take the weight of a 3vz. Well it can! :shocked:

Today went pretty smooth. I had a few hours to spare and finally drilled a hole into the block.

Drilling the dip stick hole Part 2:

I first had to remove the exhaust manifold. Then had to remove the top middle stud. You can use a 8mm socket wrench to get it out I think.

I dug around in my parents garage and remember we had a air powered drill.

The drill fit perfect with a little room to spare.

I used a 3/8 drill to start a hole then switched to the U size bit. That way I had the exact center that I wanted.

Then went all the way with the U size bit.

Took the union out of the fridge and tapped it in using a socket.

Also tapped and used a allen screw and a o-ring to plug the old dipstick hole.

It sticks out a little bit, but the pan clears.

Just need to mount the new dipstick.

Notching the passenger side motor mount:

Made some marks with some white out and went to town with grinder.

Very small update today. I was able to scrape all the old gasket material off the 3vze oil pan and I got to say this is my least favorite thing to do so for during the entire swap.

Here it is mounted w/ new silicone:

After that I tried to drill out the tac welds holding the 4runner battery tray and was unsuccessful. I'll have to try again next time.

The motor is pretty much ready to go. I still need to clear out the engine bay a little. I also need to remove the speedo cable that comes from the tranny through the firewall to the gauges. Also need to order a new firewall protector. Anybody know the part number?

Thank you,

Navy

Edited February 15, 2012 by superchiem

[superchiem]

I like this. Something new. There is always something to learn.

Yeah I'm learning as I go! :lmao:

Good size update today.

The other day I wired wheel some rust that I saw in the engine bay. I then primed and painted it.

I went ahead a pulled a part some of the dash to get to the combometer. I unplugged the speedo cable from the back of the combometer. I found that you either had to cut the speedo cable or some how take it a part. I just used a lighter to heat up the end and the stopper came out. Now the speedo cable can fit through the hole of the firewall.

I then decided to install the tranny today.

Here they are side by side (5vz 2wd auto on top and 3vz 2wd auto on bottom):

I dragged the tranny under the truck and used ratchet straps to lift it up until I was able to get a jack under it.

The newer and older tranny mount are interchangeable. The older brace and crossmember have to be used.

Still have the urge to long travel this thing' date=' but not sure if the 1 ton suspension is different.

[img']http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v295/superchiem/IMG_1527.jpg

Since the tire was off I thought I would see what it would look like.

The rim is not bolted it is just sitting beside it because the lug pattern is different from my 6 lug taco.

[superchiem]

I had somewhat of a productive day today.

Was gearing up to install the torque converter. First I poured some ATF into the converter.

Then I installed it into the transmission. I had to wiggle it back and forth until it fell into place. You should not use a hammer to install these.

Also was able to torque down my crankshaft pulley to 217 ft/lbs. I used a grade 8 bolt to hold the chain in place on the stand.

I ground down the A/C bracket where it used to sandwich the motor mount.

Now it sits flush as it should.

After that the motor was ready to be dropped in.

I was working alone so I needed a way to control it as I was lowering it. So I hooked a tie down strap to one side of the engine.

Heres the motor finally sitting on the motor mounts. Only problem is the holes don't match on the driver side. Its about 1/4" off from lining up. I'm going to lift it again and see if I can get closer sometime next week I hope.

[superchiem]

nice write up

Thanks!

Things are moving along. Finally got the engine to sit into the motor mounts. I had to use the hoist and lift the engine and shake it a few times and lower it multiple times.

I posted that the 4runner tranny mount works on the tranny crossmember bracket' date=' which it does, but doesn't work when then engine is in. You have to use the old one. Not sure if its because the rv is a 1 ton, but its much beefier anyways.

[img']http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v295/superchiem/IMG_1720.jpg

Had to bend some brake lines out of the way to get the down pipe in, but the frame is still in the way. Going to have to weld a jig up so I know how far to bend the down pipe. It looks like it needs to be bent 2 inches to the driver side. Hopefully lots of heat and a pry bar will do the trick.

I was thinking of buying a tube bender and learn how to do the exhaust myself or pay somebody to do it.

What do you guys think?

Also still pulling parts off the donor. Does anybody know how to unclip this? It hold the engine bay ac hose line to the ac condenser I think.

First I cut behind the passenger-side exhaust manifold flange. Then cut the cross over. We tried rotating it toward the transmission and welding it in place, but we were having to much trouble with the metal.

We ended up shoving a pipe in the cross over coming from the driver side and bending it up to match the height of the passenger side.

So I marked it with white out and tacked welded it from the inside. We still had trouble welding it so I took it to an exhaust shop and guess what! They said the cross over is stainless steel. Thats why we were having so much trouble.

The transmission is bolted in. Driveshaft is installed and fits perfectly. Still I have a lot of work, but I think finishing the cross-over was the biggest hurdle thus far.

Edited February 15, 2012 by superchiem

[superchiem]

Got back to working on the RV again.

I needed a shorter Alternator bracket. So I cut it and re-welded it. I also used a shorter belt:

Napa micro-v belt # 25-040405

From the adjustment bracket notch to the first bend of the bracket should measure around 2".

The adjustment bolt was too long so I cut it where the bracket starts bending.

Although I shorten the bracket I can only fit an open end wrench between the bracket and steering box. Probably could have shorten about 1/4" and still have plenty of adjustment, but I don't want to do it again.

Took a giant step back a week ago. I needed to drill and tap the threads for the column shifter bracket because I didn't swap bell housings. I snapped a bolt in there then snapped the extractor in there. So I ended up pulling the drive shaft, tranny mount, and tranny fluid lines. Then swapped bell housings.

5vz bell housing on the left. 3vz on the right.

I drilled out the hole for the starter on the 3vz bell housing because it is threaded. I wanted to use the 5vz starter just because its newer.

Small update

Just installed the battery tray. I had help from my dad, but he has a rush rush personality, therefore it didn't come out as clean as I want it. Oh well the battery and paint will cover the ugliness.

If you use the battery tray from the 4runner. You have to make it sit lower other wise the battery is pretty close to the hood when you close it.

[superchiem]

Here is the battery tray painted:

Basically the overflow tank had threads on the mounting bracket. I wanted to put bolts through the over flow tank bracket and battery holder to sandwich them together. So I drilled the overflow bracket threads. I then cut the battery holder and welded a piece of metal perpendicular to the battery holder, but parallel to the overflow mount. Drilled two holes and welded some nuts on the other end. That was harder to explain then the actual work.

[Derek up North]

Nice write-up. Certainly fair warning to anyone who thinks a 3.4 swap is a simple bolt-in.

I look forward to reading the rest and also your reports of the improved performance and (hopefully) fuel economy.

[superchiem]

Nice write-up. Certainly fair warning to anyone who thinks a 3.4 swap is a simple bolt-in.

I look forward to reading the rest and also your reports of the improved performance and (hopefully) fuel economy.

Thanks. If you choose a older 5vz you can skip most of these steps, but I wanted a motor with lower miles so I went with a 2002. Yes I can't wait to find out the performance and fuel economy as well.

Thank you for looking,

Navy

[siouxindian]

Thanks. If you choose a older 5vz you can skip most of these steps, but I wanted a motor with lower miles so I went with a 2002. Yes I can't wait to find out the performance and fuel economy as well.

Thank you for looking,

Navy

i love this kind of stuff. i cant wait either.

[jim]

i love this kind of stuff. i cant wait either.

Did mine last year, put 5000 miles on it last summer. If you drive the same as you did with old engine I found mileage to be the same. Power is nice, doesnt feel like its straining all the time but could still use another 40 horse, but

all said am glad I did it and would not go back. Much more pleasant to drive and can get out of traffics way is you need to.

Jim

[Derek up North]

... could still use another 40 horse, but ...

Sounds like you need to add a TRD Supercharger.

[jim]

Yes Ive thought of that but not seriously, when on holidays I am not in a hurry and I try for the most part to go places less travelled, like up to the Yukon last summer, highways not busy and

I just let it go at its comfortable speed, gets better fuel economy that was too. I am quite happy with it now because it has more power and yet the fuel economy has not changed.

I see trd now has a supercharger for the newer 4.0 tacoma/ 4runner engine,,,303 hp. Maybe some day when Im retired I can try that swap!!

Jim

[superchiem]

Yes Ive thought of that but not seriously, when on holidays I am not in a hurry and I try for the most part to go places less travelled, like up to the Yukon last summer, highways not busy and

I just let it go at its comfortable speed, gets better fuel economy that was too. I am quite happy with it now because it has more power and yet the fuel economy has not changed.

I see trd now has a supercharger for the newer 4.0 tacoma/ 4runner engine,,,303 hp. Maybe some day when Im retired I can try that swap!!

Jim

Any photos?

[superchiem]

Its been a while, but started collecting pictures and things. Started wiring finally. Its getting interesting thats for sure :lmao:

Here is the fuse box:

You first need to pull the 80 amp alternator fuse. There are 2 clips that you need to release on each side of the fuse. Then you just push down on the fuse itself. I forgot to mention you have to disassemble the bottom of the fuse box, which isn't difficult.

This is how the stock setup is. You have to replace that white cable with a larger cable and wire it toward the new battery location. I used a 8 gauge wire from an $30 amp kit from fry's electronics.

Unbolt the terminals.

I hacked off the crimping area for the white cable.

Bolted the new 8 gauge wire on.

Plugged the fuse back in.

I went around the front of the engine bay and to the battery. I zipped tied the new cable to the harness that was already in front of the radiator. Hopefully the excess heat doesn't cause to much resistance here. I'll possibly move it if it causes me problems.

Believe it or not have I had no idea where the original main ground was located. I found it on the 5vz block.

I'll take a better shot later.

Wiring is hard to photograph when you are in the zone. I'll try to keep it up, but I won't keep any promises. I'll get my brother to film on how to release terminals from connectors on safetydang tv.

Thanks for looking!

Navy

[Bryan B]

<br class="Apple-interchange-newline">

referring to the above pic for reference

You do realize you will need some sort of hood scoop to clear the engine when you are done correct?

I have done 2 of these swaps in 4x4s and either a body lift or scooped hood is required to clear the 3.4

[superchiem]

Yeah I have read on the 4x4 swaps on yotatech, but I also read that 2wd were different. It looks as though it would not clear, but it does so just fine. You have to bend a bracket holding the cable for the gas pedal down about 1 inch and your good to go. There is a bump in the hood that clears the motor less then a 1/4in. I'll probably switch to a hood scoop if I ever get a supercharger for it.

Thanks for looking out though,

Navy

[Bryan B]

On 2012-03-08 at 0:54 PM, superchiem said:

Yeah I have read on the 4x4 swaps on yotatech, but I also read that 2wd were different. It looks as though it would not clear, but it does so just fine. You have to bend a bracket holding the cable for the gas pedal down about 1 inch and your good to go. There is a bump in the hood that clears the motor less then a 1/4in. I'll probably switch to a hood scoop if I ever get a supercharger for it.

Thanks for looking out though,

Navy

Thats the amount of clearance a 4wd has too, the engine will torque up that 1/4 inch and bump your hood under acceleration/ load and you will see it lift it a bit, you can maybe space your hood up a tiny amount to help too.

[Derek up North]

Just chain the side of the engine down that's trying to lift.

[Bryan B]

Just chain the side of the engine down that's trying to lift.

or a looped metal cable

[superchiem]

Thanks for the advice guys.

Thanks for all the comments. Sea Jay, I hope your motor roars to life soon.

Small update for things that had to be done.

My house is going to be swarming with relatives, so I am having some sleep in the RV. That means no dash or instrument panels sitting everywhere in the camper. So I put the dash back together and installed my T100 SR5 gauge cluster. I believe the 5vz oil pressure sensor may work with the this, but I'll do a voltage test and see if its the same.

I needed to get the RV off the jack stands, so that meant putting on torsion bars and the rest of the suspension components. I first needed to route the tranny wires and o2 sensor wires. One of the 02 connectors broke when I pulled the motor for the 3rd time.

I found the exact connector from the window washer pump.

Pulled out the lock.

Pulled out the terminals.

Do them one at a time.

Done!

So torsion time!

And shes back on the ground!

Don't worry guys April 21st is the wedding. Then we'll be back on the projects.

[superchiem]

The swap just got more interesting!

Hey guys,

Here is a picture of the engine bay in a running condition. I still need to wire up the trans and dash lights. I have the next two weeks off for the wedding and might use Tuesday to finish up some wiring. Any advice on getting the ecu to the stock location?

I am going to Pick Your Part on Tuesday and getting the relay junction box that attaches to the fuse box. They usually come off 4runners with a/c condesnor fans (I think). This way I'll have a relay for the starter. Also going to pick up fuse terminals for the 15 amps I need for my ETCS.

[bajadulce]

Been a lot of fun watching this thread. Installation looks factory! You're quite creative and very thorough. Had looked into doing this swap myself at one point w/ my dying 3.0, but nothing I read seemed to suggest this much modification needed! So this has been a real eyeopener and commend you on tackling this project!

I ended up taking the "easy way out" and bought a newer truck. I now do have a 3.4L Toyota RV and am anxious to test it out with the load of the camper. The 3.4 sure seems to have a lot of sensors (including the OBD2 terminal etc) and that must be pretty daunting sorting out? Did you end up using the wiring harness from the donor car and tie in your accessories?

thnx for sharing.

[superchiem]

Been a lot of fun watching this thread. Installation looks factory! You're quite creative and very thorough. Had looked into doing this swap myself at one point w/ my dying 3.0, but nothing I read seemed to suggest this much modification needed! So this has been a real eyeopener and commend you on tackling this project!

I ended up taking the "easy way out" and bought a newer truck. I now do have a 3.4L Toyota RV and am anxious to test it out with the load of the camper. The 3.4 sure seems to have a lot of sensors (including the OBD2 terminal etc) and that must be pretty daunting sorting out? Did you end up using the wiring harness from the donor car and tie in your accessories?

thnx for sharing.

There are only 8 wires to actually make the engine run. Another 5 wires to get the transmission to shift correctly. I used the donor harness and the body harness from rv. If you use the fuse box from the rv. Most of the accessories are already working. They just need power, which is why I had that 8 gauge wire from the battery to the fuse box hooked up. Pretty simple, but lots of work.

I saw your build on here and think it looks great! 4x4 with a 3.4 is plain awesome.

Thank you for looking,

Navy

[bajadulce]

There are only 8 wires to actually make the engine run.

Wow that's shocking. I was under impression there were all sorts of things happening with all the components. The ECU for instance has so many pins? Good to know if a mouse chewed up my wiring, there's a decent chance to be able to makeshift some sort of harness to get the thing going? Or is it more complicated than that? I should learn those 8 wires.

I see you are from Anaheim, CA. What do you need to do @ the DMV now just curious.

what is that TRD component in the packaging/box btw?

[superchiem]

Wow that's shocking. I was under impression there were all sorts of things happening with all the components. The ECU for instance has so many pins? Good to know if a mouse chewed up my wiring, there's a decent chance to be able to makeshift some sort of harness to get the thing going? Or is it more complicated than that? I should learn those 8 wires.

I see you are from Anaheim, CA. What do you need to do @ the DMV now just curious.

what is that TRD component in the packaging/box btw?

Yup its pretty simple. The sensors you are worried about are the 02 sensors and smog related things, which aren't required to get the engine running. I have to go to a smog referee in CA and have them check out my swap. They'll document it in there system and give some type of cert. The box is a supercharger for the 5vz.

The new starter plan.

The relay box I was going to use.

Wired it to the green relay.

Found out that when the coil had voltage it open the circuit. So I moved the terminals to the black relay, which is the correct style.

The new splice goes to the 30 amp fuse, which then goes to the relay.

Finished!

I still need to get the 15 amps to the ETCS, which I can probably knock out before class tomorrow. The RV is now moving! The tranny fluid was just low. Therefore no pressure. Its all coming together now.

[superchiem]

UPDATE!

Went to B and M Mufflers in Garden Grove, CA and got my the rest of the exhaust done. I got to say they did everything the way I wanted it for $200. I was dreading doing the exhaust because I wanted it routed between the torsion bar and frame, under the cross member and over the drive shaft to the stock muffler. This also includes installation of the donors stock cats and o2 sensors.

I assume the supercharger is going to choke on that stock 3vz pipe after the 2 cats, but I'll chop that after I pass the smog referee.

Still some wiring to do. I need to get the ecu in the cab and wire the speedo, tach, shifter indicator, and ect. There is probably something else, but its getting much closer now!

Thanks for looking!

Navy

Edited May 16, 2012 by superchiem

[bajadulce]

Those guys look like they did a great job. You must be pretty floored.

Gluck w/ your ECU etc. Do you need a functioning CEL for smog referee?

You'll have a new sticker for your door here soon!

[MAXXFabrication]

so with all that extra horsepower how are you going to be able to stop it?

just kidding!! I had to before some other moron posted it since it seems to be the main issue with adding horsepower to a Toyota RV-

looks good, glad to see the TRD package waiting to go on it.

keep up the good work

[superchiem]

Those guys look like they did a great job. You must be pretty floored.

Gluck w/ your ECU etc. Do you need a functioning CEL for smog referee?

You'll have a new sticker for your door here soon!

I am very impressed with the exhaust shops work. Its my first time I let somebody else do work on the rv and was scared they would mess the thing up. Yes a working CEL is required, but that doesn't mean they will check it. They don't even need to pop the hood if they don't want to.

so with all that extra horsepower how are you going to be able to stop it?

just kidding!! I had to before some other moron posted it since it seems to be the main issue with adding horsepower to a Toyota RV-

looks good, glad to see the TRD package waiting to go on it.

keep up the good work

I don't think we have any upgrades for brakes. I am just going to get some replacement rotors and some good soft brake pads. The supercharger might go on my tacoma instead, but I am still debating.

Thank you for looking!

Navy

Edited May 21, 2012 by superchiem

[superchiem]

Well I just cut some of the original heater hoses and made it work. I couldn't use the 90 degree water valve without major modification. I'll show pictures of the water valve later.

Now I have a new problem! I heat shrinked 1 wire that I meant to do later, which was B+ right before the park neutral switch. After heat shrinking I went to start it and it would crank, but won't fire up. I sprayed starter fluid in the intake and it fired up for a little.

Maf is in spec and has resistance. Didn't check the crank position sensor yet though. Fuel pump is running and there is fuel all way to the fuel rail. I don't have the oboII wires hooked up yet so not sure of cel. Might have to do that though. Any advice would be great.

I swapped these parts with the tacoma and they all work.

Crankshaft position sensor

Maf

Thank you,

Navy

I hooked up the ob2 and guess what no codes! :lmao: This is the only time I wish I had some codes to read. I've looked at everything and it seems like it might be the ecm. Nothing else controls the injectors besides the ecm. Inputs needed are crankshaft, but I have good resistance there.

Hopefully the ecm doesn't cost more than my swap. :lmao:

Navy

Well I finally got my adapter. I should have just save myself 12 bucks and made it myself, but oh well.

Here it is next to the broken Actron adapter:

I didn't tighten down the 90 degree elbow to much because I thought it was going to snap, but later on I did because it was leaking at that point. Remember to use plumber tape. It will save you the trouble of undoing everything the second time.

Put barbs on both ends:

I used a coat hanger to hang my gauge.

If you have a remote starter. I unplugged the relay and hooked it up to the battery.

Then crank away! I got around 45 psi, which is normal. Now I have no idea what my problem can be now haha.

[superchiem]

Checked some source voltage going to the ECM:

BATT = 12.59v

+B = 12.18v

VC = 12.14v

IGSW= 12.20v

IGF = 5.02v

Also checked ECM grounds:

E01 ok

E02 ok

E03 ok

E04 ok

ME01 ok

E1 ok

E2 ok

Everything looks like its in spec so far.

Although I swapped a crankshaft positioning sensor the wire may have resistance and can throw off the computer (I think). My cheapy harbor freight DVOM is unreliable when it comes to resistance, so I am going to buy a nicer one.

Throw some ideas out folks! I need your help!

Thank you,

Navy

[superchiem]

I just manually grounded the injector and it fired for a few seconds and died. I figure there might be some internal resistance in the ECM. There are only a few things left to check before I change the ECM now.

[superchiem]

She is running again . Now I can move forward and start doing the evap stuff.

The problem was a ground wire that was missed pinned. I didn't even remember removing when soldiering the starter wire. The ground wire was EOM E14 pin 10.

I found this because I was going to finally hard wire my OB2 and see if I get any other readings. OB2 takes pin 13 and 14 in the E14 connector. The EOM wire was in pin 13. I removed and plugged in the right spot and she fired right up!

Its a humbling experience, but I wouldn't have done it without yotatech.

Stay tuned for gas tank welding and evap nonsense.

Thank you for all helping!

Navy