Bryan B

I am not a "Audiophile" and I dont see spending hundreds on a car stereo, I do like music however, with that said this is great upgrade for cheap with all the gizmos/ add ons of high dollar stereo that also just plugs right in to your factory harness. the sound is very very good too, they have many internal functions- just search T1807,1808,1809 and programming or functions.

email me, I have a set of hubs with new bearings & new rotors (both used for a couple hundred miles but still in new condition) around that price and you wont be adding an adapter to your original hub.

Thank you Derek.

okay this isnt of my own doing but it has been done numerous times to 4Runners and other Toyota trucks on other forums I belong to but I havent seen it anywhere on this forum for anyone. the Scion (and later model toyotas) stereo is a plug and play upgrade, even the nav. unit in later model Toyots camrys etc will work. they are all double DIN size and fit with a little filing or dremel work. the scion 1807, 1808, 1809 are sat. ready and all sorts of new technology I wont list (if interested look the model numbers up) being a "factory" head unit most places sell them for nothing at all (all day long on car part.com for under 100) and an added bonus is no one hardly ever steals factory style headunits anymore. can someone post up images of the1807-1808-1809, my computer wont let me save pics right now for some odd reason. these are great upgrades on the cheap, many functions and sound parameters- when scrolling through the XB, TC and Xa- shosse XB for best sound depth in your cabs. Sat. ready and Ipod plug in capable plus features I havent listed for most all the models. some of you will need to unplug your factory amp (behind passenger side glove box) if your vehicle has one, most bare bones trucks didnt, its the 4runners I have found the amps in. I will post up pics of one in my 92 4Runner dash (same exact dash as your 89-95 trucks) I used an 1807

I was going to say there is a company out there that makes the Toyota ones and already have the specs. http://customcommercialwheel.com/ AT6714 is the part # you want

I picked up a sheet of polystyrene (plastic) and used a 3 inch hole saw to make a 3" disk to mount the brass ring for the horn from the original steering wheel and then mount it to the new wheels metal neck (I used plastic because otherwise it would ground out and the horn would always sound) drilled 3 holes to mount the ring with rivets then 2 holes through the plastic into the wheel itself to mount it. that was attached with rivets as well. 2 more small 1/16 inch deep holes for the 'blinker off' collar to spin with the wheel and done, as I said before there is a gap- this can be solved a couple of ways 1. use a thin wall aluminum "collar" about an inch wide with a mount to hide the gap or live with it. 2. most of you wont be swapping to a 2.7 or newer engine with cruise control or you can just add the ring to the column plastic. I am looking at mounting in later model (84-88 and 89-95) to see what may be needed but from what I can tell they are more compatible than an early 79-83 (depth and CC switches)

how much do they want for the adapters?

My 83 steering wheel left alot to be desired when driving short or long distances, it was hard and small diameter (wheel grip area itself not overall size) and beginning to crack in places on the plastic. While I was at my friends tow yard I noticed a Rav4 that was getting scrapped so I happen to see the steering wheel was a nice fat one with soft material I removed it and believe it or not it bolted right up to my steering column, same spline count and all. There is a small hump in my column for the high beam/blinker stem and the amount that the Rav4 wheel sets off of the column actually clears the stem fine. The Rav4 wheel is 1 inch smaller in diameter than the 83 (1/2inch per side) and it sticks out 3/4 of an inch closer to driver- if you can live with that it is a great upgrade. I have seen some ugly aftermarket steering wheels and they really make a car look like crap, this looks totally factory and you can remove the air bag out of it and still utilize the horn function. the gap between the steering wheel itself can either have a small 4.5 inch cover made or I am using the cruise control ring mounted to my column for when I do the 2.7 swap to be able to use my cruise control. I will post up a pic of the ring I made to use the horn still.

All factory Ujoints have a grease fitting- sometimes over the years the can fall off, get covered with gunk/dirt/grease and hidden but some aftermarket Ujoints are sealed. Dont go with anything other than Toyota factory Ujoints either. Neat tidbit of info, the Toyota mini truck Ujoint is comparable to a domestic truck 1 ton Ujoint. thats been quoted many times from professionals and magazines- not my own opinion. my opinion is yes they are 1 ton strong BTW

because springs dont fail.... that would just be kind of a band aid. I can get a better spring rate with new springs to make it a bit more stable with the anti sway bars (anti roll bars, sway bars etc.)

I have the frame drilled, tubing placed and welded for the spring shackle hangers under the cab, I am trying to source some factoy spring hangers to weld the frame in front and make this pretty much identical to a factory 4x4- the frame is the same 2wd/4wd its just where the IFS mounts are or the spring hangers on a 4wd are at. I am using a 1995 IFS 4x4 steering box, it will be a crossover steering set up which is a little safer than the factory push/pull style drag link from the factory when emergency braking, especially with the added weight of the RV. The axle is rebuilt, painted and currently the third member is being rebuilt with 4.88 gears in it, the R151 transmission has a gear ratio spread of First Gear: 4.313:1 Second Gear: 2.330:1 Third Gear: 1.436:1 Fourth Gear: 1.00:1 Fifth Gear: 0.836:1 and pretty much bullet proof. My rear springs will depend on many measurements before and after to decide what height I will have to go with over stock, a spring over axle would be way too much for the rear (7+ inches) I will use a heavier shackle as well (thicker metal) I will be ordering the rear springs from National springs- they are a little pricey but worth it. I will use adustable shocks because the price is right for them- name brands are almost as cheap as a normal quality shock, plus I will have to source a custom size. I will add some pics later this week

it would be nearly impossible to keep your IFS- even to add a 4x4 IFS would be nearly impossible (nearly as in a Sh+t ton of work) I dont know of anyone yet to date that has done a swap to IFS 4x4

or a looped metal cable

Thats the amount of clearance a 4wd has too, the engine will torque up that 1/4 inch and bump your hood under acceleration/ load and you will see it lift it a bit, you can maybe space your hood up a tiny amount to help too.

well, when are we doing it!?!! email me (I cant log in under maxxfabrication, some1 doesnt like me lol) I had to open a second acct.

email me for any info you need on swapping a 3RZ into your early 80s truck, i am sourcing one now for my 83. The exhaust is fairly simple, 1 90 degree bend and its to the other side with plenty of room to work with being 2wd only.

<br class="Apple-interchange-newline"> referring to the above pic for reference You do realize you will need some sort of hood scoop to clear the engine when you are done correct? I have done 2 of these swaps in 4x4s and either a body lift or scooped hood is required to clear the 3.4

I havent been on here for a minute, yes the 2wd 1ton big 6 lug hubs will bolt on, the bearings are the same as a standard 2wd hub and same seal believe it or not. I have a set going up for sale for both left and right sides with new rotors with both side lug nuts being the same direction not one different per side if anyone wants them.

add 2.25-2.50 exhaust and that will give you a tiny bit more power and help your gas if you can keep out of it. think your mileage is bad? I just installed a weber 38/38 in my 22r........ ouch, the power is there but damn my mile sucks ( I had a 38 laying around lol, I cant find either of my 2 32/36's)

can you post up pics?

I guess I get to be the one who gets to see if it works. I will post up pics

your engine compartment came with a V6 in some of the models (you didnt mention if yours was or not) so yes it will fit in your compartment. one thing to note, I use an Afco Radiator- it requires at least a 1 inch body lift, I have been in the works with Afco to make an inch and a half shorter version for 2 wheel drives and or motorhomes. You can source other radiators, the limiting factor is width 21-22 inches, and height of no more than 17 in motorhomes or 2wd trucks.

I searched and didnt find anything on this (for the early years) does anyone know or has anyone done the later model 6 lug (for dually wheel up front) swap onto an early model (1979-1983) spindle? I have recently picked up a 1991 cab chassis (bad 3.O) with the required front hubs and six dually wheels so I will have the hubs, wheels and all (plus another spare rear axle!) I was wondering before I go and pull a side off to see myself if it has been done before on early body style trucks as well.

I just liked the look of the factory scoop thats all. it wasnt going on my motorhome (mine is an 83) it is on my 4runner with the Lexus V8. As far as cooling goes, the only time my temps rise is when in double low range rock crawling with no airflow- the scoop doesnt flow much air at no speed, it does allow heat to escape, it is being pushed out by the engine fan though.

I called them and even with paying the 700 the manager wouldnt do it- I told him I could come pick it up monday and he was dead set on trying to auction it off.