Dank Posted December 5, 2011 Share Posted December 5, 2011 Hey Folks, I have an 84 Huntsman that appears to have been painted at some point with some really poor paint. The colors are original, but I'm seeing aluminum through the paint above the cab, and the rest of the coach is very dull and chalky. A paint job of some type is on tap for the Spring, so I need to start thinking about what I'll use and how I'll put it on... I saw one post that recommended rolling a rustoleum type enamel. Anyone else tried this? I could spray it, but there's a lot more waste involved. Wither the textured siding, I'm not sure how much difference it would make anyway. I'll probably come up with a makeshift paint booth, as I don't have indoor access due to the height issue. I'd rather avoid expensive automative paint if I can avoid it, but I don't want it to start wearing off in 2 years, either . I'd appreciate any of your personal experiences and knowledge. Thanks, Dan Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Derek up North Posted December 5, 2011 Share Posted December 5, 2011 Google "$50 paint job" and look at Interlux Briteside marine paint instead of Rustoleum. No as cheap as Rustoleum but less than auto paint. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Derek up North Posted December 5, 2011 Share Posted December 5, 2011 Or you could try this http://www.fieldandstream.com/files/imagecache/photo-single/photo/38356/camo_RV.JPG I doubt anyone would notice any blemishes in your original finish! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dank Posted December 6, 2011 Author Share Posted December 6, 2011 Thanks Derek, I'll look into the Interlux paint. I haven't heard of it. I did see the $50 paint job link earlier today... pretty impressive, but I'm not sure I have the patience for 6 coats! I'm afraid the bride won't go for the camo... might get kicked out of some uppity RV parks . Dan Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Derek up North Posted December 6, 2011 Share Posted December 6, 2011 If you're doing white over white and not sanding in between coats for a mirror finish, I'm sure you'd get away without 6 coats. I painted an old fiberglass sailboat with a paint like Rustoleum. 2 coats, unthinned, did it. I used 'paint pads', like linked below, from the Dollar Store and it gave a pretty nice finish from 10' with no sanding after I started applying the paint. Actually, you probably have to be <3' to tell it's not the original gel coat. http://www.ebay.com/...=item2a0845db63 BTW, consider using white 'bed liner' on the roof. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dolphinite no longer here Posted December 6, 2011 Share Posted December 6, 2011 Dank, The real key to a good paint job is in the preparation. Take your time and make sure that the surface is clean and fee of all dirt and oil. After a light, quick sanding with 300 grit sandpaper or finer, wipe the surface down with a rag dampened in water. This will remove almost all of the dust. Wear gloves and do one more wipe down with alcohol or acetone, and you're ready to paint. I use an aluminum primer on the bare spots, but lots of people get great results going right to the finish coat with no primer at all. If you use good paint (Derek's idea of using marine paint is a good idea. I've had great results with Interlux as well as another brand called Petit) and a good brush, roller or foam pad, I think you'll be happy with the results. John Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dank Posted December 6, 2011 Author Share Posted December 6, 2011 Thanks Derek and John, I definitely plan to use an aluminum primer. Since the siding is 'textured', I'm not sure how I'll be able to effectively sand the 'valleys' of the texture unless I sandblast. Considering how broken down the paint is now, it may be a viable option. I would think the texture would also prevent me from being able to effectively sand between coats (without removing too much paint from the high part). I'm hoping I can avoid the between-coat sanding. Dan Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
twoblocked Posted December 6, 2011 Share Posted December 6, 2011 Thanks Derek and John, I definitely plan to use an aluminum primer. Since the siding is 'textured', I'm not sure how I'll be able to effectively sand the 'valleys' of the texture unless I sandblast. Considering how broken down the paint is now, it may be a viable option. I would think the texture would also prevent me from being able to effectively sand between coats (without removing too much paint from the high part). I'm hoping I can avoid the between-coat sanding. Dan I've been scratching my head also on how to prep textured aluminum. The only thing I could come up with was a soda blaster. Pretty expensive solution if you have to buy a large CFM compressor with it. Here's just one, there are many on the market. http://www.ace-sandblasting.com/soda-blasting.html Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dank Posted December 6, 2011 Author Share Posted December 6, 2011 I've been scratching my head also on how to prep textured aluminum. The only thing I could come up with was a soda blaster. Pretty expensive solution if you have to buy a large CFM compressor with it. Here's just one, there are many on the market. http://www.ace-sandb...a-blasting.html I agree, that would be ideal, but I"m hoping to use a standard cheap blast hopper and abrasive and just back off a bit on the distance. I have a single stage 60 gal compressor that hangs okay with my cheap blaster. I believe it'll leave a good enough base to lay the primer and paint down pretty smooth. I just hope it won't take forever! I may not get it all down to the aluminum everywhere, but if I can get close, my primer should stick pretty well. It'll be March or April before the weather is getting right, but I"ll post my experiences when I get to it. Dan Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
90toydolphin Posted December 6, 2011 Share Posted December 6, 2011 you might try using a pressure washer, it would at least get the loose stuff off, be fairly easy and quick, reduce actual sand blasting time and cost. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dank Posted December 6, 2011 Author Share Posted December 6, 2011 you might try using a pressure washer, it would at least get the loose stuff off, be fairly easy and quick, reduce actual sand blasting time and cost. That's a great thought! Thanks, Dan Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bob C Posted December 6, 2011 Share Posted December 6, 2011 I have painted a sunfish sailboat with a roller and a Scamp fiberglass camper by spraying with Interlux Brightside paint. That stupp is amazing with the way it smooths out when using a roller. The paint is easy to work with but you have to do a good job os thinning when spraying. My neighbor helped with the spraying and I was surprised how thin he wanted the paint in the sprayer. I never thought of using it for the Toyhouse but it would be a good option. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
waiter Posted December 6, 2011 Share Posted December 6, 2011 How well does the Interlux paint hold up over time?? Dupont Imron (automotive paint) holds up very well and is reasonably easy to apply (spray) John Mc 88 Dolphin 4 Auto Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Derek up North Posted December 6, 2011 Share Posted December 6, 2011 Unless Imron has changed a LOT since I left the fringes of the paint business, it's full of isocyanates and requires professional equipment to apply safely. Also not cheap. But good stuff, very resistant to pretty much everything. Favored by the aircraft industry. May cause nose and throat irritation. May cause nervous system depression, characterized by the following progressive steps: headache, dizziness, nausea, staggering gait, confusion, unconsciousness. Reports have associated repeated and prolonged overexposure to solvents with permanent brain and nervous system damage. If this product contains or is mixed with an isocyanate activator/hardener, the following health effects may apply: Exposure to isocyanates may cause respiratory sensitization. This effect may be permanent. Symptoms include an asthma-like reaction with shortness of breath, wheezing, cough or permanent lung sensitization. This effect may be delayed for several hours after exposure. Repeated overexposure to isocyanates may cause a decrease in lung function, which may be permanent. Individuals with lung or breathing problems or prior reactions to isocyanates must not be exposed to vapors or spray mist of this product. http://pc.dupont.com...RC_29-2_RFN.pdf Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dank Posted December 7, 2011 Author Share Posted December 7, 2011 Unless Imron has changed a LOT since I left the fringes of the paint business, it's full of isocyanates and requires professional equipment to apply safely. Also not cheap. But good stuff, very resistant to pretty much everything. Favored by the aircraft industry. http://pc.dupont.com...RC_29-2_RFN.pdf Yeah, I'd like to stay away from the isocyanates myself! That's some scary stuff without a fresh-air mask. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
waiter Posted December 7, 2011 Share Posted December 7, 2011 Yah, Should use a positive pressure breathing mask, especially if spraying in a booth. If I was painting it in my driveway, I'd probably use a good face mask. (I painted my plane with it, don't remember the cost, $50/qt, probably need 1/2 gallon to paint a toy house. (Its thinned out almost 2:1 ratio) ANYWAY - How well does the other stuff hold up (Interlux???) John Mc 88 Dolphin 4 Auto Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Derek up North Posted December 7, 2011 Share Posted December 7, 2011 Well enough to use on expensive yachts left out in the sun all day! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
waiter Posted December 7, 2011 Share Posted December 7, 2011 Derek - Good idea on the Interlux. I've read a couple of the "How-to" on Interlux and this looks like a project I'll try in the spring. Interlux Painting Tips If I'm near West Marine this week, I'll get a color strip sheet and look at the paint and price. I think applying this by brush or roller would be acceptable because fiberglass panels on my dolphin doesn't have nice smooth glossy finishes.. In reading, I note that others use a roller to apply, then a brush to smooth out roller bubbles. Also expect a minimum of two coats. Has anyone else tried this product??? John Mc 88 Dolphin 4 Auto Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Derek up North Posted December 7, 2011 Share Posted December 7, 2011 A friend of mine used Briteside on his Sunbeam. Hasn't deteriorated in 2 years sitting out in the elements. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wistoy Posted December 7, 2011 Share Posted December 7, 2011 I have been following this thread because I would like to repaint allso, I googled the paints named and found them at Jamestown dist. - they even have a web vidio on using the product incl. prep, plus some comparisons with other simular products, incl. sratch test. A great information resource for any one looking to repaint. I have used jamestown for boating products and would use them again. Thanks for the Ideas!! Dale Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dank Posted December 8, 2011 Author Share Posted December 8, 2011 (edited) Based on the information gathered here (thanks!) and following up in other forums, I'd probably go with the Interlux Brightside if I were going to do it today. I'm pretty sure I'll be spraying it on. My nagging questions I'm asking myself are, "how much gloss do I want, and what colors do I go with?". The marine paints are typically pretty limited in color options, so matching the factory colors won't be a perfect option. I'm not all that crazy about the dingy off-white base anyway. I'm thinking maybe a brighter white with blue and gray trim instead of the beige and brown. My hood has a couple of dinks anyway, so I'll just do the cab at the same time. As far as the gloss, I don't think I'd want the coach as glossy as the cab, but I'm hoping to achieve a semi-gloss look on the coach, either chemically or procedurally. Any thoughts on my thoughts? Thanks, Dan Edited December 8, 2011 by Dank Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Derek up North Posted December 8, 2011 Share Posted December 8, 2011 Briteside is available in several different whites. And they also offer (I think I saw somewhere) what they call a 'flattener'. Look at what they say about painting 'non-skid' surfaces. It might help with your textured siding. http://www.jamestown...oduct.do?pid=64 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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