Dank

I appreciate the responses and advice from each of you. I'm generally not in a big hurry to get somewhere... I just don't want to get run over on the interstate or stack up traffic on the back roads. When I was in the Toyota MH market last year, I drove one with a 5-speed manual tranny. I was scratching my head, wondering why they would even bother... 5th gear seemed pretty useless. Now I'm thinking it would be really nice to have a 5-speed and change the rear ratio to a 1:4.56 or 1:4.88... a small O/D with one more gear choice just might be the ticket... I often find myself wishing I had a 3.5 gear Allen, I'd be curious to know what kind of changes you see with the 2.5" exhaust on the MH. I've read that 2.5 is a bit big for the 22R (except the turbo version), and that it would hurt torque in low and mid RPM ranges. Thanks, Dan

Tumolt, It's all about expectations and tradeoffs. While the things you say are usually true, sometimes a few extra horsepower and foot-pounds can make the difference between between "acceptable" and "unacceptable" (or unsafe) driveability. I'm willing to trade "barely acceptable" for good gas mileage, but I want to make sure I'm getting all I can get (within financial reason) from my little engine. Dan

As I’ve made recent power-related upgrades to ‘Snailey’ (as my wife and I refer to our little toyhome), I’ve really started thinking about torque, horsepower, gearing, driving habits, etc. I have a theoretical scenario below with some related questions, and if you’re the analytical type, I’d like to hear your thoughts. I think that in this day and age, most folks don’t know or care much about these things, but when you find yourself with a barely-adequate engine, they become more relevant! If you have a V-8 in your toyhome, or word-problems scare you, then this post probably won’t be very interesting to you…J Otherwise, here’s our theoretical toyhome gearing setup: ( please don't brow-beat me over the numbers- they aren’t accurate… just examples) Gear RPM speed (mph) 4 3500 65 4 3200 60 4 2800 52 3 3200 40 3 5200 60 Engine redline (max RPMs) = 5800 Torque peaks at 2800 RPMs and stays flat to 5800 RPMs Horsepower steadily increases until 5800 RPMs I’m cruising on a flat road at 55mph, approaching a mile-long uphill, constant grade . My speed begins to slow as I start up the hill, so I push the accelerator. The truck settles in at 52mph, no matter if I push the accelerator further or not, and remains there for the last ¾ mile. 1. Why does this happen? Why doesn’t it help when I offer the engine more fuel and air (via the gas pedal)? 2. If I had begun my ascent at 65 miles per hour instead of 55, would my truck have slowed to 52 anyway (given enough time), or would the extra horsepower when beginning my ascent have helped to hold my speed higher? In other words, does it benefit me to speed up before a big hill? 3. What if I downshifted at 52 mph to 3rd gear. Would I then be able to speed up and hold my truck at 60mph in 3rd gear? 4. Is it better (for my engine) to run my engine in 4th gear at its max speed up this hill (52mph – 2800 RPMs), or to run 52mph in 3rd gear at 4200 RPMs? Which is better for gas mileage? Perhaps I’m too much of an analytic, but if we consider these questions and their answers, it may change the way we drive, or at least help us better understand why our little Toy engines behave the way they do. These little guys force us to think about every bit of power and torque we can muster. Hope this was interesting to at least a few J Dan

Hey 85DolphinColorado, Have you done a compression check? Sounds like you know your way around an engine, but I don't think you're getting as much torque out of that engine as what you should be getting. I assume your engine is a 22RE. I'd check [warm] compression first, and if it's not pretty even across all 4 and at least 140 in each, then I'd do a leakdown test to see whether problems are in the head (valves) or in the block (rings or cylinders). You could also have injector / fuel issues that cause a lean condition. A lean engine will rev nicely with no load but stall more easily under load. If the compression checks out good, and your spark plugs look like you're getting the appropriate fuel mixture, then I'd start thinking about WME's suggestions... You could pick up a bit of extra torque and horsepower with an aftermarket camshaft and exhaust system, but it wouldn't be a night-and-day change. Just my 2 cents, Dan Dan

85Newhorizon, I have the Superior leaf helpers on mine. They're better than a sharp stick in the eye, but not by a ton. When I got my 84 Huntsman (around 6000 lbs), the air bags wouldn't hold air. It had probably been sitting with empty bags for quite some time, as the leaf springs allowed the home to sit pretty much right on the bump stops. The leaf helpers may have held it up slightly higher, but not much. Mine also had adjustable air shocks on the back, which would keep it somewhat lifted, but they were worn out, so you felt EVERY bump. I traced the air bag issue to a bad fill valve, and to my surprise they held air after fixing the valve. Now that I could get the back up higher, I replaced the worn air shocks with some KYB shocks (also up front). The ride is so much better that it doesn't feel like the same vehicle (like going from a go-cart to a car). The leaf springs aren't dong much of anything at this point other than a bit of stabilization. If you can spring for the airbags, I don't think you'll want to do without them again! Dan

Since I stirred up these hornets, I owe it to y'all to report on my progress. I used some 3" channel steel and tied into the main truck frame in order to add a receiver capable of carrying several hundred pounds. I bought a lightweight motorcycle carrier that plugs into the 2" receiver. The new frame and hitch steel probably added 100 - 150 lbs of weight. The scooter is around 250lbs. So I'm carrying maybe 400 lbs extra now with the scooter. For the engine work, I bought a used 20R head and intake, a new camshaft (268 torker from engnbldr.com), a new Weber 32/36 carb, and an old but new Downey 4-1 header. I aso ran new 2" exhaust, cat converter, and muffler. No other changes were made, and the 20R head was stock other than the cam. We had a vacation planned, and the exhaust work took me longer than I expected. So it's the day we're supposed to leave for a 600 mile trip, and I don't have the head on the engine yet . I my haste, I forgot to add water before I cranked it the first time to break in the new cam. So 10 minutes later it's overheating and I realize what I've done. I added water and completed my break-in, packed up and left. So early in my trip, I'm tickled pink. Even with the extra weight of the scooter, I'm chugging up a pretty good grade at 55 mph in 4th gear (4 speed trans). But as the trip continues over the hundreds of miles, it seems like it's getting weaker. On the way home a few days later, she's really struggling on some of the interstate grades in southern Virginia. Now I'm not so tickled... is it my imagination? So when I got home, I did a compression check. Number 4 cylinder is 20 - 25 lower than the others. Off comes the head. I find that my #4 cylinder has galling on the far wall. Apparently when I overheated it while breaking in the cam, #4 got just hot enough to cause a bit of galling. Apparently as I drove, the rubbing of the rings agains the galled cylinder wall heated the rings up, likely messing up their ability to seal. So I was probably running on 3-1/2 cylinders at best... at least that's what I'm hoping. If the first leg of my trip was an indication of future results (once I get all cylinders on-board), then I'll be very satisfied with my upgrades. The bottom line is that we can only expect so much from a 2400 cc 4 cylinder engine...going 55 mph on the interstate seems like a fair expectation . If this doesn't work, I'll be making some gearing changes... Sorry for the long post. Hope it's useful to someone... Dan

Stamar, Based on what I've seen online, a Smart car is around 1800 lbs, right? If so, I think it would be a pretty miserable experience to tow it with a 22R unless you were on the interstate with extremely flat terrain. Even if you built one to put out 150 hp at 5000 rpms, you wouldn't want to run it at those rpms (you wouldn't be able to hear yourself think)! Your max torque just wouldn't be high enough to keep your speed up even on small inclines. I just don't think any 4-cylinder engine out there would be able to comfortably tow 2000 lbs. I'd be considering a torquey V6 swap for that much weight... Dan

If you're the type who likes to 'set up camp' with awning, external power & sewer, etc., it's a pain to take off to the store or to sightsee when you don't have another vehicle. Like most others on here, I wrestled with the 'gas mileage versus towing ability' debate. I figured it wouldn't matter how much it would tow if gas prices keep me from using it! I ended up buying a little 150cc Chinese scooter, beefing up & extending the frame on my toyhome, built a heavy-duty 2" receiver, and bought a lightweight motorcycle carrier that plugs into the receiver. I have around $1300 in the whole setup, but so far it's been perfect for our needs. It might not be much good during a cold winter or a rainy day, but most of the time it fits the bill.

Thanks to each of you for the replies. Linda, I'll post back when I complete my mods. WME and Derek are on the money. The stroke on the 20R was a bit shorter (200cc), so the top of the cylinder (in the head) was a bit lower. By chaning heads, the compression ratio is greater since there is less space with the same stroke. The intake manifold on the 20R also was a better design with more flow from the carb. WME, I've heard a warning or two about a torque decrease with this setup, but I haven't seen anything but positive reviews from actual users (mostly 4wd crawlers, who rely on torque more than HP). Most folks who do this mod also put in an RV cam, which likely more than offsets any torque loss from the compression ratio. I'll let y'all know my results afterwards. Any other experiences or concerns are welcome. Thanks, Dan

Thanks Mulwyk, That's exactly the information that I've been trying to find! Dan

Hey Folks, I have an 84 Huntsman with a 22r with 76K miles. I've got a pretty good intermittent engine miss at the moment, as well as exaust leaks in the muffler (and I think the manifold or gasket as well). I'm not sure if the miss is fuel or electrical, but the plugs, wires, and distributor are almost new. The carb floods the engine quite often, so I'm thinking it may be fouling a plug, causing the miss (only at idle). I'm also burning some oil, which I'm hoping is just valve seals or guides. So to cut to the chase... I'm going to beef up and extend the frame to mount a 150cc scooter on the back... and pull a light jonboat. With the extra weight I'll be adding / towing, I'm thirsting for more power. I was leaning toward trying to find a 2.7 3RZ to swap, but looking at the cost of a decent donor (or rebuilding a donor), I started thinking that it may be better to just do some mods to my 2.4. I'm thinking about swapping to a rebuilt 20R head, Weber 38 carb, and header with larger exhaust. From what I've read, those changes lead to significant power increases. They also address the current problems that I'm having with my carb, exhaust, and valves. Anyone here done those mods? Do you think I'm trying to push the little 2.4 too much, or am I on the right track? Thanks, Dan

Just to chime in with one more related question... Which Weber choke do I want??? I have an 84 22R. Will either of the electric chokes work? I thought the stock carb choke was "automatic, but mechanical in nature (based on temps). Thanks, Dan

Based on the information gathered here (thanks!) and following up in other forums, I'd probably go with the Interlux Brightside if I were going to do it today. I'm pretty sure I'll be spraying it on. My nagging questions I'm asking myself are, "how much gloss do I want, and what colors do I go with?". The marine paints are typically pretty limited in color options, so matching the factory colors won't be a perfect option. I'm not all that crazy about the dingy off-white base anyway. I'm thinking maybe a brighter white with blue and gray trim instead of the beige and brown. My hood has a couple of dinks anyway, so I'll just do the cab at the same time. As far as the gloss, I don't think I'd want the coach as glossy as the cab, but I'm hoping to achieve a semi-gloss look on the coach, either chemically or procedurally. Any thoughts on my thoughts? Thanks, Dan

Yeah, I'd like to stay away from the isocyanates myself! That's some scary stuff without a fresh-air mask.

That's a great thought! Thanks, Dan

I agree, that would be ideal, but I"m hoping to use a standard cheap blast hopper and abrasive and just back off a bit on the distance. I have a single stage 60 gal compressor that hangs okay with my cheap blaster. I believe it'll leave a good enough base to lay the primer and paint down pretty smooth. I just hope it won't take forever! I may not get it all down to the aluminum everywhere, but if I can get close, my primer should stick pretty well. It'll be March or April before the weather is getting right, but I"ll post my experiences when I get to it. Dan

Thanks Derek and John, I definitely plan to use an aluminum primer. Since the siding is 'textured', I'm not sure how I'll be able to effectively sand the 'valleys' of the texture unless I sandblast. Considering how broken down the paint is now, it may be a viable option. I would think the texture would also prevent me from being able to effectively sand between coats (without removing too much paint from the high part). I'm hoping I can avoid the between-coat sanding. Dan

Thanks Derek, I'll look into the Interlux paint. I haven't heard of it. I did see the $50 paint job link earlier today... pretty impressive, but I'm not sure I have the patience for 6 coats! I'm afraid the bride won't go for the camo... might get kicked out of some uppity RV parks . Dan

Hey Folks, I have an 84 Huntsman that appears to have been painted at some point with some really poor paint. The colors are original, but I'm seeing aluminum through the paint above the cab, and the rest of the coach is very dull and chalky. A paint job of some type is on tap for the Spring, so I need to start thinking about what I'll use and how I'll put it on... I saw one post that recommended rolling a rustoleum type enamel. Anyone else tried this? I could spray it, but there's a lot more waste involved. Wither the textured siding, I'm not sure how much difference it would make anyway. I'll probably come up with a makeshift paint booth, as I don't have indoor access due to the height issue. I'd rather avoid expensive automative paint if I can avoid it, but I don't want it to start wearing off in 2 years, either . I'd appreciate any of your personal experiences and knowledge. Thanks, Dan

Thanks Linda and twoblocked, My airbags were losing air pretty quickly, so I thought they were shot. Discovered just yesterday that the main air fitting was leaking. Fixed that, so I believe they're holding air now... so no damage was done apparently. Twoblocked, I think my airbags ARE my bump stops... like it or not! Your 'boat' comment was right on the money - my rv would basically get into a porpoising rythm on the interstate joints like an ill-trimmed boat. I'll take your experiences to heart. Thanks, Dan

Thanks for the quick response, guys. I'll definitely plan to replace the 4 shocks. Tumolt, I appreciate your advise against air shocks. I'm curious as to how much flex is expected from the leaf springs when the air bags are deflated. Mine pretty much let the frame drop to the axle (with the deflated air bags stopping further drop). I assume that the leafs were strong enough to hold it up a few inches (with an empty house) when it was all new..l else they wouldn't accomplish much. I've read on this forum about folks using leaf helpers... Is that a better option than having the leafs retempered? Also, does anyone have some non-air shocks that they're particularly happy with? Thanks, Dan

Hello - First time poster, but I've been hanging around here for a couple of months since we got our first toy home (1984 Huntsman). I've spent several hours going through the plethora of information on this forum - a great resource! The wife and I (and 3 dogs) took our first trip this past weekend, and we learned a few things. Firstly, don't take 3 dogs on a camping trip! Secondly, our suspension needs some attention, as we took a beating, even on concrete interstate expansion joints. I'm hoping to get some clarity here. Here's the setup: Five leaf leaf springs, factory air bags (welded to frame and axle), and adjustable air shocks (max-air). I'm confused as to how these components work together (in theory). In my case, the leaf springs sag too low if I remove the air from the bags and shocks. If I take all the air out of the bags and shocks, it's like riding a hard-tail Harley. I get the feeling that the leafs aren't doing anything. When I put air into the shocks, I can't tell much difference either...just raises the frame a bit, but still a hard ride regardless of pressure. When I add air to the bags, it softens things a bit, but then the bouncing begins. So... I guess we all want a soft ride with no sway, and plenty of clearance... too much to ask? So am I wrong that once you add air to the bags, you're unloading the leaf springs and more or less taking them out of the equation as you increase the lift? So what about the air shocks? I would think they would minimize the bounce... maybe their just worn out too. I guess it all begins with the leaf springs, huh? If they're not supporting the load, the other parts are trying to do too much? I appreciate any insight, experiences, and suggestions. Thanks, Dan