LalalaLisa Posted May 28, 2011 Share Posted May 28, 2011 Hi, Thanks in advance to any/all who have any advice for me. ;I have a 87 Toyota mini coachman .;I purchased it a couple of years ago and I did not have this problem then. ;I have no electric power when I am not plugged in. I have bw manufacturers power center, 6300 series. ;I checked the fuses and they look fine. I brought it to a local guy who works onRV's and he said Ijust needed a new battery so I took it to advance auto parts and they checked it and said the battery was fine and fully charged. ;I had left the camper plugged in for 24 hours Any ideas? Thanks again Lisa Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Derek up North Posted May 28, 2011 Share Posted May 28, 2011 Two preliminary questions: - Did they check the coach battery or the cab battery? - Do you own a VOM/Multimeter? And welcome to the Forum. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LalalaLisa Posted May 28, 2011 Author Share Posted May 28, 2011 Two preliminary questions: - Did they check the coach battery or the cab battery? - Do you own a VOM/Multimeter? And welcome to the Forum. They checked the rear (coach?-- not under the hood) battery. What's a vom? I don't have one but if I need one, I'll go get one. What do you do with it? Thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vanman Posted May 28, 2011 Share Posted May 28, 2011 <br />They checked the rear (coach?-- not under the hood) battery. What's a vom? I don't have one but if I need one, I'll go get one.<br />What do you do with it?<br />Thanks We need to find a resonably priced digital meter that includes a good primer in basic circurity and troubleshooting, something good for newbys. Someone is probably making such a package, but now that I think of it I've never seen one. Anyone else seen this ???? vanman Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Maineah Posted May 28, 2011 Share Posted May 28, 2011 There are any number of meters on the market that are good enough for automotive work in the $20-30 range most big box stores even have them. There must be a decent book on the market about how to use one I think most manufactures assume you all ready know how to use them try Amazon books I'll bet they would have a decent one with all the basics. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LalalaLisa Posted May 28, 2011 Author Share Posted May 28, 2011 [Thanks. I'm going to try to get one now. Be right back... Lisa Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Derek up North Posted May 28, 2011 Share Posted May 28, 2011 Some call them a VOM (Volt Ohm meter), others just a 'Multimeter'. I just threw in both terms. I think there are tons of sites and videos online to show you how to use the basic functions. Just google 'How to use a multimeter'. To start, you'll only need to check voltage (12V DC & 110V AC), Resistance (Ohms) and Continuity. The cheapest multimeter will have these functions. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Oldiesel Posted May 29, 2011 Share Posted May 29, 2011 Book called the "12 Volt doctor" is the best i have seen,i guess its primarily aimed at boats,but has excellent basic instructions in language anyone should understand.Clear drawings outlinig basic circuits and how to test them with a VOM and also good info on the use of the simple test light.Actually the test light can do most of the testing you need but of course one should have at least a basic digital meter. Since i used to do this stuff to earn a living i have an expensive Fluke brand meter but for the DIY person Harbor Freight sells a basic digital one that will do about every test one could use for trouble shooting basic automotive problems,it sells for about $5.oo and thats what i carry with me most of the time while the expensive one stays safely in the big tool box. Just checked Amazon.com and they have several of his books and he even wrote one for motor homes although it says "out of print limited stock" Don Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LalalaLisa Posted May 29, 2011 Author Share Posted May 29, 2011 I picked up a innova multimeter from auto zone for 15.00. I read the directions but they assume more knowledge than I have. I am going to check for a video on checking the battery now. My daughter really has her heart set on me taking her camping someplace with a pool tomorrow so I am going to really try to figure this out. Luckily it works when plugged in so it's not the end of the world if I don't. This is an somewhat unrelated question but what the heck.... When I got home this evening I found that my hot tub wasn't working. I don't know if this is the correct terminology but it's hardwired. It has it's own breaker box on the deck. when I hit the test button it flipped the breaker. And when I flipped the breaker nothing happened with the hot tub. No lights, no nothing. The packaging to this multimeter says it's good for household appliances etc. Do you think i could use it to figure out if it's the hot tub or the breaker box that is having a problem? Thanks again, Lisa Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Maineah Posted May 29, 2011 Share Posted May 29, 2011 I'm pretty sure your hot tub has a GFI and if it's tripped there is some thing that is not right any thing from motor to heater to the GFI it's self I think I would learn about wiring issues with your 12 volt MH first and have some one that knows 120 volt wiring have a look at your hot tub. Hey you have a meter let them uses yours. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LalalaLisa Posted May 31, 2011 Author Share Posted May 31, 2011 Well, I tested the battery and I got a 12.34 so I assumed it was shot until I reread the notes I'd taken and realized I was supposed to disconnect the black cable and I hadn't. I pulled and pushed and twisted and got thoroughly frustrated and still couldn't get the battery out to remove it. Just got back from a really fun time at roundout resort in accord, ny. If you have kids and want to keep them busy and happy, it's a great place. I'll work on the battery again tomorrow After I purchase a new escape hatch cover so I don't wake up drenched again next time. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Derek up North Posted May 31, 2011 Share Posted May 31, 2011 Was that with the engine running? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Maineah Posted June 1, 2011 Share Posted June 1, 2011 12.34 is not a dead battery it's a low battery as Derek said engine running? All your cables need to be hooked up to check the charging rate check both batteries with it running your coach battery should be close to the truck battery voltage with the engine running. It may take some time for the coach battery to come close to matching because it is low. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LalalaLisa Posted June 1, 2011 Author Share Posted June 1, 2011 No, the truck wasn't running. I didn't check the under hood battery either. Good to know I can check it without disconnecting it. I was reading the manual and it said you could check the coach battery by turning a couple of lights on and then checking the panel inside the coach. The gauge didn't move at all for the battery, water pump or waste tank level. I don't know if that indicates anything. I didn't get to the battery today. Could you believe they want ninety five bucks for a new escape hatch lid? I am going to try to glue that stinkin thing back together tomorrow! I really appreciate your time and advice. Lisa Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LalalaLisa Posted June 7, 2011 Author Share Posted June 7, 2011 Ok. Finally checked them both with the engine running. The truck battery was 14.2 and the coach was 12.4. So I guess the battery isn't shot but it's not getting a full charge. It's been driven a few hours and plugged in for a couple of days between this time and the last time I tested it. Any suggestions what to try next? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
waiter Posted June 8, 2011 Share Posted June 8, 2011 With the truck running, the coach battery should be almost exactly what the truck battery is. From whot you are measuring, you need to find out if the isolator solenoid is energizing, or perhaps there is a fuse in the coach battery circuit is blown. John Mc 88 DOlphin 4 Auto Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Maineah Posted June 8, 2011 Share Posted June 8, 2011 OK next plug the MH in and check the coach battery voltage. Let it run for maybe a 1/2 hour before you check it. The voltage should come up plugged in. Next we need to know what kind if isolator you have there are two types one is the relay type (most common) and the other is solid state (a small 4"X3" box with cooling fins on it) Both should have red heavy wires attached to it (they may not be red but probably are regardless they will be heavyier then the other wires around them). Your charging system is working that is a good thing now we need to get it to charge your coach battery. Sorry about your escape hatch they are expensive check around though $95 is a good bit high more like $60. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gulfstream Greg Posted June 11, 2011 Share Posted June 11, 2011 Hi, Thanks in advance to any/all who have any advice for me. ;I have a 87 Toyota mini coachman .;I purchased it a couple of years ago and I did not have this problem then. ;I have no electric power when I am not plugged in. I have bw manufacturers power center, 6300 series. ;I checked the fuses and they look fine. I brought it to a local guy who works onRV's and he said Ijust needed a new battery so I took it to advance auto parts and they checked it and said the battery was fine and fully charged. ;I had left the camper plugged in for 24 hours Any ideas? Thanks again Lisa The 6300 series converter has a mechanical relay inside. When you are plugged into shore power the relay activates, what it does is take your coach battery out of the circuit and places it on the charger circuit only. The converter will then supply electricity to the coach 12v circuits while the battery charges all by itself. When you disconnect from shore power the relay de-activates and connects your battery back to the coaches electrical system. That relay may have gone bad and is not switching back to re-connect your battery, It could be stuck or there could be a wiring problem with it or going to it also. Between the battery and the 6300 you may find whats called an automatic reset circuit breaker. It will be a small rectangular device with two wires connected to it. They some times go bad. Also a word of caution. When you are plugged into shore power there are live 120 volt AC circuits inside your 6300. The same as your house. I believe the relay is activated via 120 VAC. Be very careful what you touch or test. Its possible to blow up a multi-tester if you test 120VAC when it is set to 12VDC, not to mention shocking yourself. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wanderso Posted June 13, 2011 Share Posted June 13, 2011 This sounds quite similar to an issue that I have with my 91 Winnebago Warrior although slightly different. The coach battery seems to get a decent charge when receiving voltage from the RV's alternator when I'm out on the road, but not much charge from when it is plugged in to A/C. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Boots Posted June 21, 2011 Share Posted June 21, 2011 Hi, Thanks in advance to any/all who have any advice for me. ;I have a 87 Toyota mini coachman .;I purchased it a couple of years ago and I did not have this problem then. ;I have no electric power when I am not plugged in. I have bw manufacturers power center, 6300 series. ;I checked the fuses and they look fine. I brought it to a local guy who works onRV's and he said Ijust needed a new battery so I took it to advance auto parts and they checked it and said the battery was fine and fully charged. ;I had left the camper plugged in for 24 hours Any ideas? Thanks again Lisa Hi Lisa, I am familiar with your particular model, but now I own a newer model. I have a Parallax 6300 charger unit in my unit which provides charges the battery when it is plugged in. I have attached a PDF file with the 6300 series manual. You say you have an "electrical problem "no electric power" so I am assuming you are experiencing an AC power problem (commonly refered to as "house hold power); this power is supplied when you plug the cable into the campsite outlet. It is usually 120 volts AC at 15 amps. if this is the case, you need to locate and test the single AC circuit breaker - In my original rig, it was located on a panel next to the furnace; it was a typical looking 20 AC circuit breaker and is there to protect the power cable and prevent nusiance tripping. The electrical power comes into the rig from the cable, is feed into this 20 amp circuit breaker and then is distributed to Parallax power center and charger. If nothing is on, it is likely because of the following, the power cable is faulty, the connecting plug is faulty (or wired incorrectly), the 20 amp circuit breaker is faulty or worn out, some part of the AC power circuit wiring has come loose (wires not connected) - all of these require some knowledge of working on electrical systems; if you are unfamiliar with this call an electrical (and more specifically an RV technician who is certified to work on AC in RV's) and he may help. Hope this helps. OwnerOperatorManual6300Series.pdf Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Boots Posted June 21, 2011 Share Posted June 21, 2011 There are any number of meters on the market that are good enough for automotive work in the $20-30 range most big box stores even have them. There must be a decent book on the market about how to use one I think most manufactures assume you all ready know how to use them try Amazon books I'll bet they would have a decent one with all the basics. Hi, I would use caution recommending just any old meter. Meters that do not specific safety standards will not protect the user from various shocks and explosions. I had a no name meter blow up and the arc, fire and meter material missed my face and hands, The arc came through the front of the meter -I received some burns to my hands. The arc from this explosion melted a small aluminum faceplate six inches away from me. So if you cannot see that the meter meets all standards, do not recommend or use it. The PDF that I copied this from is too large to upload as an attachment so I have cut and pasted the excerpt below. Quote: " Introduction The choice of a test meter, power monitor or datalogger for a power study must now take into account the safety standards currently in force to protect electrical workers under National Fire and Protection Association (NFPA) 70E standards. When selecting electrical testing tools users are confronted with the following considerations: 1. Does the meter meet existing safety standards? 2. Does the meter meet both my company or organization’s safety and measurement goals? 3. Does the meter improve worker safety? We assert that a CAT IV safety rating and Bluetooth wireless communication are attractive and practical features that are compatible with NFPA 70E safety programs and procedures. In this article we discuss how these design features of the latest power testing meters enhance worker safety and provide an overall better “user experience”. The Impact of NFPA 70E on Electrical Testing and Meter Design Safety in the electrical testing industry has taken on a new level of importance with the focus on Arc Flash hazards that is embodied in the NFPA 70E Standard for Electrical Workplace Safety. NFPA 70E covers the range of electrical safety issues such as work practices for maintenance, installation and repair activities. It is intended to be followed by employers, employees, engineers, electricians, their supervisors, and new hires such as apprentices. OSHA (Occupational Safety & Health Administration) bases its electrical safety mandates on the NFPA 70E standard. It provides guidance on employee training, how to implement an effective electrical safety program, work planning and procedures such as lockout/tagout rules. It specifically prescribes the use of PPE (Personal Protective Equipment) such as gloves, visors and fire-retardant clothing. Meters and test equipment are also classified as PPE. To comply with NFPA 70E owners of electrical trical workers maintain, inspect or repair. The labels shall indicate the level of Arc Flash hazard (see example) and the recommended PPE when working on the equipment. Those involved in electrical testing and the employment of electrical workers must implement safety programs and procedures that follow NFPA 70E. If there is non-compliance and an accident occurs there is legal liability that can result in citations, work shutdown, fines or other sanctions. It is generally recommended that electrical testing and maintenance workers use tools with the latest highest safety rating (CAT IV) to be compatible with their safety practices.Without this rating, the worker could be injured if a sudden transient overvoltage occurs and the tool creates an arcing flash-over. The four CAT environments and their maximum transient overvoltages that testing tools must withstand are depicted below (as per IEC/EN 61010-1 for phase to ground) Most older test meters are designed to sustain transient overvoltages in CAT III. Higher-rated CAT IV tools have improved protection circuitry. CAT IV 600V instruments are a better choice and are suitable for all CAT test environments at 600V or below. CAT (Category) IV refers to power lines at the utility connection, the origin of installation or service entrance. It includes outdoor overhead and underground cable runs that could be affected by lightning, utility meter locations and primary breakers or fuses. " This is a partial copy of the article, shortened to capture one page on the topic....This article came from Electrical Power & Solutions - May 2009 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Boots Posted June 21, 2011 Share Posted June 21, 2011 There are any number of meters on the market that are good enough for automotive work in the $20-30 range most big box stores even have them. There must be a decent book on the market about how to use one I think most manufactures assume you all ready know how to use them try Amazon books I'll bet they would have a decent one with all the basics. Hi, I would use caution recommending just any old meter. Meters that do not specific safety standards will not protect the user from various shocks and explosions. I had a no name meter blow up and the arc, fire and meter material missed my face and hands, The arc came through the front of the meter -I received some burns to my hands. The arc from this explosion melted a small aluminum faceplate six inches away from me. So if you cannot see that the meter meets all standards, do not recommend or use it. The PDF that I copied this from is too large to upload as an attachment so I have cut and pasted the excerpt below. Quote: " Introduction The choice of a test meter, power monitor or datalogger for a power study must now take into account the safety standards currently in force to protect electrical workers under National Fire and Protection Association (NFPA) 70E standards. When selecting electrical testing tools users are confronted with the following considerations: 1. Does the meter meet existing safety standards? 2. Does the meter meet both my company or organization’s safety and measurement goals? 3. Does the meter improve worker safety? We assert that a CAT IV safety rating and Bluetooth wireless communication are attractive and practical features that are compatible with NFPA 70E safety programs and procedures. In this article we discuss how these design features of the latest power testing meters enhance worker safety and provide an overall better “user experience”. The Impact of NFPA 70E on Electrical Testing and Meter Design Safety in the electrical testing industry has taken on a new level of importance with the focus on Arc Flash hazards that is embodied in the NFPA 70E Standard for Electrical Workplace Safety. NFPA 70E covers the range of electrical safety issues such as work practices for maintenance, installation and repair activities. It is intended to be followed by employers, employees, engineers, electricians, their supervisors, and new hires such as apprentices. OSHA (Occupational Safety & Health Administration) bases its electrical safety mandates on the NFPA 70E standard. It provides guidance on employee training, how to implement an effective electrical safety program, work planning and procedures such as lockout/tagout rules. It specifically prescribes the use of PPE (Personal Protective Equipment) such as gloves, visors and fire-retardant clothing. Meters and test equipment are also classified as PPE. To comply with NFPA 70E owners of electrical trical workers maintain, inspect or repair. The labels shall indicate the level of Arc Flash hazard (see example) and the recommended PPE when working on the equipment. Those involved in electrical testing and the employment of electrical workers must implement safety programs and procedures that follow NFPA 70E. If there is non-compliance and an accident occurs there is legal liability that can result in citations, work shutdown, fines or other sanctions. It is generally recommended that electrical testing and maintenance workers use tools with the latest highest safety rating (CAT IV) to be compatible with their safety practices.Without this rating, the worker could be injured if a sudden transient overvoltage occurs and the tool creates an arcing flash-over. The four CAT environments and their maximum transient overvoltages that testing tools must withstand are depicted below (as per IEC/EN 61010-1 for phase to ground) Most older test meters are designed to sustain transient overvoltages in CAT III. Higher-rated CAT IV tools have improved protection circuitry. CAT IV 600V instruments are a better choice and are suitable for all CAT test environments at 600V or below. CAT (Category) IV refers to power lines at the utility connection, the origin of installation or service entrance. It includes outdoor overhead and underground cable runs that could be affected by lightning, utility meter locations and primary breakers or fuses. " This is a partial copy of the article, shortened to capture one page on the topic....This article came from Electrical Power & Solutions - May 2009 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
waiter Posted June 21, 2011 Share Posted June 21, 2011 Lisa, Did you ever get this resolved??? If so, what did you find?? John Mc 88 Dolphin 4 Auto Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Maineah Posted June 21, 2011 Share Posted June 21, 2011 That is correct but it replies mostly to over voltage the last time I saw that is when some one tried to check 1300 volts thinking is was 208 amazingly they survived. We were talking nothing above 120 volts even cheap meters are OK at that voltage as they all have to meet basic requirements. My meters are all Fluke but they are not cheap a good bit more then the casual user is likely to spend. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
winniewarrior Posted June 27, 2011 Share Posted June 27, 2011 Hi, Thanks in advance to any/all who have any advice for me. ;I have a 87 Toyota mini coachman .;I purchased it a couple of years ago and I did not have this problem then. ;I have no electric power when I am not plugged in. I have bw manufacturers power center, 6300 series. ;I checked the fuses and they look fine. I brought it to a local guy who works onRV's and he said Ijust needed a new battery so I took it to advance auto parts and they checked it and said the battery was fine and fully charged. ;I had left the camper plugged in for 24 hours Any ideas? Thanks again Lisa Check all the wires that suppose to be on the positive post of your house battery. I had a black wire that I though was suppose to be ground but was really on the positive post. Goodluck. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
craige Posted July 13, 2011 Share Posted July 13, 2011 I have the original converter (new 55 amp on order) and If I pug into my generator or shore power, I sometimes don't get any power after going back to battery. I have to take off the elec panel cover and work the automatic switch on the bottom with a pen to get it to switch it back. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.