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fiberglass care


Vanman

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When we had a boat I used a product called Star Brite for fiberglass, which we got with the boat and worked great, but thta was some years ago. The outside of our 91 Dolphin looks to me like it's coated with fiberglass and I was wondering what works well with our Toy's, ie what are you using on yours ?????

John & Mary

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Hi--I use a product called Vertglas and it does a great job. Like many fiberglass care products, it comes from the marine industry. We have been full-time for 17 years and have owned seven different motorhomes during that time. We have had three toyhomes during this period and are now enjoying our '92 Itasca Spirit. All of our motorhomes have been used and not anywhere new. All needed care to look presentable. Believe me when I say that I have tried everything. Vertglas really does the job and does it well. It is expensive. As a cheaper alternative, we have used Mop and Glo floor wax and find that it too does a respectable job although it does not last as long as Vertglas. If you read the Good Sam RV forum, you will find that people are using some kind of floor wax (name escapes me) called Red Max or something like that. You can use the "search" feature and read all about it. We have got to keep these old gems lookin' good!

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Went to West Marine to check out the products and remembered that the Star Brite was easy on really, really hard to buff off, I got a Wen orbital buffer just because of that. The thing is with the boat I could bear down on it, with the RV the surfaces are vertical and some require a ladder so the Star Brite was a no go. They recommended the Meguiar's # 50 Marine•RV cleaner wax one step, which I got. I've been using Meguair's products on all my cars/trucks/motorcycles for many years with great success, so I got it. I compared a patch done with the # 50 only to one I did in a 2 step process: 1) strip with Meguiar's #2 Professional Fine-Cut-Cleaner, buff off and 2) apply Meguiar's # 20 Professional Polymer Sealant. Both look the same, which is great!!! So I'll fire up the Wen and hope the 32 oz. bottle is enough.

I've been using the Maguiar's Plastic-X for the black rubber/vinyl trim as a cleaner and it works super, but have been using the # 20 to protect same. They said I should be using a dedicated vinyl protectorant instead????? Your thoughts ?????

vanman

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<br /><br /><br />

When I was working we painted the machine room floors with a really tough bright red epoxy paint but to make an easy clean we used Future floor wax, it seemed the best in protection and looked great, but inside an elevator mach room may not be comparable to an RV parked outside.

vanman

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  • 3 weeks later...

I just removed the winter cover and the sides are very dirty and dull. I was hoping the cover would help keep it somewhat clean... I looked into that Red Max floor finisher... Seams to have rave reviews so I sent the wife out on a mission, not an easy feat, it seams the word is out and all the Lowe's are sold out everywhere around me. She was going on a all girls weekend to Seattle so I sent her to search around there... Luckily she doesn't mind doing that, and the Lowe's near where she was staying had 3 bottles left! So I will do a good deep clean and then apply 4 coats of the stuff and report back how it works...

Andrew.

Here is a handy site I used to find the stuff:

http://milo.com/red-max-128-oz-low-maintenance-floor-finish?near=seattle

And a link to the stuff:

http://www.lowes.com/ProductDisplay?partNumber=216595-531-RMPLM128&langId=-1&storeId=10151&productId=3024836&catalogId=10051&cmRelshp=req&rel=nofollow&cId=PDIO1

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  • 2 weeks later...

I used 3M Marine Restorer/Wax. It comes in a white plastic bottle with a green label. When I called 3M they also recommended a particular 3M buffing pad which I also got and an rpm for the buffer. I used this on my Sunrader. I went over it twice and then hand waxed it with an automotive wax. It looked outstanding. I started with a very chalky exterior. If you can pull off vents, lights, etc. that allows you to use the buffer in more areas. No way I would have gotten these results by hand unless I spent 100+ hours polishing by hand. But, my arms would have fallen off long before that. I did have do the places where the buffer would not reach by hand. Some did come out as well as buffed areas, others did not. If sure if I buffed long enough those areas would have come out as good. I spent about 20 hours on the job.

Since many of our rigs are NOT a basecoat/clearcoat paint TR3 Resin Glaze is a pretty good product for removing oxidation on the hood, fenders and doors. It has a mild to moderate cutting action that pulls the dead paint off. You need to use a small test area to make sure your paint is not so thin that you rub through. I also had great results on the 1983 Sunrader with this product. Used to use it a lot on the past but don't run into non-clearcoat paint much these days. I highly recommend against using it on clearcoat paint!

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  • 3 weeks later...

I just removed the winter cover and the sides are very dirty and dull. I was hoping the cover would help keep it somewhat clean... I looked into that Red Max floor finisher... Seams to have rave reviews so I sent the wife out on a mission, not an easy feat, it seams the word is out and all the Lowe's are sold out everywhere around me. She was going on a all girls weekend to Seattle so I sent her to search around there... Luckily she doesn't mind doing that, and the Lowe's near where she was staying had 3 bottles left! So I will do a good deep clean and then apply 4 coats of the stuff and report back how it works...

Andrew.

Here is a handy site I used to find the stuff:

http://milo.com/red-...sh?near=seattle

And a link to the stuff:

http://www.lowes.com...ollow&cId=PDIO1

Did you report back yet on how it worked? We're about to put it on our 93 Warrior...

Thanks

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I have been cleaning and cleaning.... I have one side cleaned, and some of the second... My fiberglass has a lot of places for dirt to get into and i have to scrub every square inch of it by hand to get it clean. :) I'm kinda dreading the rear of the RV, it looks real bad... :rolleyes:

Andrew.

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/quote ['Diesel_Aggie'

Since many of our rigs are NOT a basecoat/clearcoat paint TR3 Resin Glaze is a pretty good product for removing oxidation on the hood, fenders and doors. It has a mild to moderate cutting action that pulls the dead paint off. You need to use a small test area to make sure your paint is not so thin that you rub through. I also had great results on the 1983 Sunrader with this product. Used to use it a lot on the past but don't run into non-clearcoat paint much these days. I highly recommend against using it on clearcoat paint!

Disel_Aggie

I use the blue can TR-3 on my campers. They do have a TR-3 product for clearcoat finishes and I think it is in the Green Can instead of the blue.

It looks and acts like the 'OLD' Dupont # 7 Auto cleaner and polisher .

Homer

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I'd never seen anything but the silver can with blue lettering. Glad you posted that to prevent confusion. Have you ever used the clearcoat safe product? How do you like it? I'd like to find a good product for restoring clearcoat aging.

When you say you used TR3 with blue lettering on your camper, do you mean on the camper shell itself? Are you fiberglass or aluminum? How does it work? It strikes me as a little abrasive for gel coat fiberglass but I'd sure like something more harsh than the 3M product I've been using for the areas I have to do by hand........way too much elbow work in those areas!

Disel_Aggie

I use the blue can TR-3 on my campers. They do have a TR-3 product for clearcoat finishes and I think it is in the Green Can instead of the blue.

It looks and acts like the 'OLD' Dupont # 7 Auto cleaner and polisher .

Homer

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What products are you using?

I'm trying this stuff, The powder stuff seams to work the best for getting into the little crevasses good. I use those 3"X 5" green scouring pads with a bucket of water. Lots and lots of scrubbing. I really hope it is worth it! :headbonk:

homepage-products.png

Link:http://www.barkeepersfriend.com/

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D_A:

I have used the TR-3 on everything painted . The burgandy color was badly faded from setting in the outside weather and sun since 86. The Sunland Express I have has an aluminum roof and I have purchased a gallon of DICOR Elastomeric roof coating for that. Just haven't done it yet.

I used the TR-3 on my Apache hardside and it made the green sides look new. They were heavily oxidized when we got it in 2000. I have had many comments on how the paint looks to be 1977 vintage.The tops and bedends are ABS plastic and I use it on them as well.

I have not used the clearcoat TR-3, so I cannot tell you how it does.

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