Derek up North Posted May 4, 2011 Share Posted May 4, 2011 Lots of pictures of converters with Google 'Images'. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Maineah Posted May 4, 2011 Share Posted May 4, 2011 Good deal now your hesitation is probably an over active EGR that will make it hesitate around 2,000 rpm disconnect the vacuum hose and try it. If you can fit a bigger cooler on it go for it won't hurt a thing the stock coolers are not quite that big more like 4X8. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
crasster Posted May 5, 2011 Author Share Posted May 5, 2011 Good deal now your hesitation is probably an over active EGR that will make it hesitate around 2,000 rpm disconnect the vacuum hose and try it. If you can fit a bigger cooler on it go for it won't hurt a thing the stock coolers are not quite that big more like 4X8. Would you suggest I make it "in place of" the stock cooler, or piggy back the coolers? I think I found some room on the other side of the radiator that I could mount a rather large Hayden cooler. I was thinking the 403 to 405. I'll try the vac on the egr and see if that clears up the hesitation. It's not bad at all really, it's probably me just driving newer Toyota vehicles and feeling picky. Perhaps .5 to .8 of a second worth of "farts" LOL when pushing the gas at a stop. Gets right on with it after. I'm just glad it seems to be driving better, that the cylinders have good compression, re-checked the plugs and they were dry. It was really getting a bad gut on it. Wow those catalytic converters are kind of tough to diagnose because the symptoms feel like other stuff. The weather is great and we have some anxious kids and some very scared marshmallows (and beer). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WME Posted May 5, 2011 Share Posted May 5, 2011 Most of us don't use the O/D, except maybe downhill or with a big tailwind. Get a tran temp gauge and check you transmission temps before you change out the cooler. Note the temp diff between 3rd and O/D. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
waiter Posted May 5, 2011 Share Posted May 5, 2011 Tranny Cooler My MH came with an extra cooler - its on the right side and about 6x6. (sounds like you have the same setup) I added another very large (15x15) cooler, I couldn't fit it in front, so it sites between the A/C cooler and the radiator. Not the best location, but better than nothing. I now have three tranny coolers plumbed in series, Radiator (original) , small cooler (original), and the new cooler I added. John Mc 88 Dolphin 4 Auto Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
crasster Posted May 12, 2011 Author Share Posted May 12, 2011 Well.. I have bad news. Problem is still there. ug. It seemed fine the other day then I took it out again. Seems to work better when I'm just driving alone rather than if my family goes with me. Wife & 5 kids probably weigh a grand total of 300 pounds - MOST OF THAT BEING THE KIDS DEAR. LOL. I'll throw out one more list of the symptoms that hopefully would trigger some ideas: SYMPTOMS: A) Feels very weak at higher speeds. Have to floor it to go up hills. Sometimes if I floor it, the tranny doesn't seem to down kick. C) Sometimes when I floor it the tranny does down kick, but its weak. D) Sometimes when I floor it the tranny does downkick, but it's weak, then I let up on the pedal and floor it again. It down kicks, but sounds weaker than before. Each time I let it up it kind of sounds even weaker. E) At low speeds it most often seems to do okay, but often won't down kick at lower speeds and feels weak as well. F) No bump shifts G) When I first start driving, all the gears seem to shift very smooth and right H) Nothing in tranny fluid seems to indicate a problem. Pink and smells good. What I have done that I thought could be relevant to fix this problem: New Fuel Pump New Fuel Filter New PVC New Catalytic Converter Valve adjustment New Spark plugs New Coil New Rotor New Cap New Spark plug wires New Oil New Oil Filter I've also took off the TPS (throttle position sensor) and applied a tat of WD-40 to it because it was barely seeming hesitant. Now it's "snapping" back into place when I manipulate it. Other things I've done: Starter New Battery Things I'm wondering if could be the problem: Air Flow Meter (AFM) - Could this cause my symptoms? I'd rather not mess with it if it couldn't because they are $$. Bad injectors - How could I test and could this cause my problem? Bad transmission - Since they are complicated. Fluid smells & looks good. Smooth shifting when shifts. I DO HAVE A LARGE TRANNY COOLER coming in the mail as I type this. The heat may be the issue? Things I don't think is the problem: I don't think its the fuel pump or filter because both are new, of course I'm willing to try a pressure test (need to buy a gauge). Valves - I think I have them adjusted right. Sounds good with mild clicks. Noticed a power increase with them. Anyway, I'm stumped and I hope the tranny cooler fixes this. Somehow I doubt it will but I guess I never know. The oddest thing is symptom "D". I let off the pedal and floor it again and it sounds weaker than when I let up. Could this be the Air Flow Meter? May just be a bad tranny... I have no idea. Thanks! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Maineah Posted May 12, 2011 Share Posted May 12, 2011 If it does not kick down it 's the cable adjustment it's the only thing that controls the shift pattern other then the governor but if you had an issue with the governor it will give you very different issues. These things are slow no doubt about it the faster you go the worse it gets. Don't forget you are driving a 6000# brick. Try manual shifting it and see if it makes any difference just start in low and manually shift it up or down. Air flow meter problems will throw a code there really is not much inside of it to go wrong and if it does it won't come and go it either works or it doesn't. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
crasster Posted May 12, 2011 Author Share Posted May 12, 2011 If it does not kick down it 's the cable adjustment it's the only thing that controls the shift pattern other then the governor but if you had an issue with the governor it will give you very different issues. These things are slow no doubt about it the faster you go the worse it gets. Don't forget you are driving a 6000# brick. Try manual shifting it and see if it makes any difference just start in low and manually shift it up or down. Air flow meter problems will throw a code there really is not much inside of it to go wrong and if it does it won't come and go it either works or it doesn't. Okay it's kind of like this, WHEN this problemt happens and I start cruising at 30mph, if I floor it, it will not rev up and down shift into a lower gear. I manually put it into 2 or L, and floor it, it will down shift. Sometimes after bringing it back from 2 or L, back into D, if I floor it it will down shift, but other times not. I have my Haynes book, I'm going to seriously check out the kick down cable. Never adjusted one before but will try. It's strange because sometimes it works perfect. GRR. If the tranny cable doesn't do it I may have to haul it up to a tranny shop for their take. May be worth the diagnose fee at least. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
crasster Posted May 13, 2011 Author Share Posted May 13, 2011 Tranny problem is FIXED! I didn't realize you measured the kick down cable FROM the rubber boot on near the Throttle body. Now it kicks down every time! I have one other problem, but I'm going to start a new thread because obviously I've had a couple of problems working together to make a confusing sandwich. I feel like a complete doof for overlooking that cable measurement Maineah. It kicks down every time now, gears shift smooth, so all is good in transmission land. Thanks for your help on this one guys! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
waiter Posted May 13, 2011 Share Posted May 13, 2011 Crasster, download the Factory Service Manual for the 88, its close enough that it should be able to help with most problems. http://toyotamotorhome.org/forums/index.php?showtopic=3867&st=0&gopid=21513entry21513 JOhn Mc 88 Dolphin 4 Auto Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Boots Posted May 15, 2011 Share Posted May 15, 2011 Hi, I had an 84 Toy with that engine and transmission and it is underpowered. Having said that this is one tough engine and transmission and unless some tests the engine for compression problems, or timing or other similiar problems, you might have to live with the performance. Having said that you did not mention if this is a new event; where you in the past you did not experience this kind of problem. I now have a six cylinder 3.0 litre toy and the difference is very different and joyful. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WME Posted May 15, 2011 Share Posted May 15, 2011 On a 22re the pressure regulator is just a simple pop off valve. If its dirty or sticking then you would be running reduced fuel pressure. Get a book or google Toyota 22RE trouble codes and see what information the computer holds. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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