RICHARD SCHADE Posted February 1, 2011 Share Posted February 1, 2011 Been having hard starting for a wile, just seen rear injector having gas drip when i shut off , is this hugh repair or just live with it runs perfect, any input thanks Richard Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RICHARD SCHADE Posted February 1, 2011 Author Share Posted February 1, 2011 this Richard again I have 1988 22re motor for got to put that in my post thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
waiter Posted February 1, 2011 Share Posted February 1, 2011 Thats why its hard starting. (The leaking injector) Normally, the fuel system will maintain pressure for weeks after you shut it down. It relies on this pressure when you start the engine. Try this. Turn on the key to "run" position for about 3 seconds, then turn the key OFF for about 2 seconds. Do not attempt to start. Repeat this about three or four times. Then try and start, It should fire right up. (fuel pressure in the system is now up to correct pressure) When you first turn the key to the run position, you may hear the fuel pump run (depends on your hearing and how loud the pump is), It should run for about 2 seconds, then shut back off. (safety feature) The reason you need to do this three times is to get the pump to build pressure back in the fuel system. Before you replace the injector, try running a couple cans of "Fuel Injector Cleaner" through it. this may clean up the nozzle. WARNING - If the injector is leaking externally, this creates a fire hazard. I would repair this ASAP. In all likelihood, it the o-rings that have dried and are leaking. The fix may be simply replacing the O rings. You 'll need to pop the fuel rail off, if you do this, I would replace all O-rings (one on the top and one on the bottom, replace the o rings on all four injectors. Clean the mating surfaces, put a little grease (just enough to wet the o-ring) on each o-ring, it will help when you re-assemble. IMPORTANT - If you replace the injector, reset the ECU by removing the ECU fuse for 30 seconds or better yet, remove the battery cable for 30 seconds. This wil force the ECU back into a learn mode, where it will optimize its internal fuel ration table. You'll need to take the truck out on the freeway and drive it at operating temperature for 10 or 15 minutes to relearn. Actually, doesn't hurt to do this after any major engine work (tune up, etc) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RICHARD SCHADE Posted February 1, 2011 Author Share Posted February 1, 2011 Thats why its hard starting. (The leaking injector) Normally, the fuel system will maintain pressure for weeks after you shut it down. It relies on this pressure when you start the engine. Try this. Turn on the key to "run" position for about 3 seconds, then turn the key OFF for about 2 seconds. Do not attempt to start. Repeat this about three or four times. Then try and start, It should fire right up. (fuel pressure in the system is now up to correct pressure) When you first turn the key to the run position, you may hear the fuel pump run (depends on your hearing and how loud the pump is), It should run for about 2 seconds, then shut back off. (safety feature) The reason you need to do this three times is to get the pump to build pressure back in the fuel system. Before you replace the injector, try running a couple cans of "Fuel Injector Cleaner" through it. this may clean up the nozzle. WARNING - If the injector is leaking externally, this creates a fire hazard. I would repair this ASAP. In all likelihood, it the o-rings that have dried and are leaking. The fix may be simply replacing the O rings. You 'll need to pop the fuel rail off, if you do this, I would replace all O-rings (one on the top and one on the bottom, replace the o rings on all four injectors. Clean the mating surfaces, put a little grease (just enough to wet the o-ring) on each o-ring, it will help when you re-assemble. IMPORTANT - If you replace the injector, reset the ECU by removing the ECU fuse for 30 seconds or better yet, remove the battery cable for 30 seconds. This wil force the ECU back into a learn mode, where it will optimize its internal fuel ration table. You'll need to take the truck out on the freeway and drive it at operating temperature for 10 or 15 minutes to relearn. Actually, doesn't hurt to do this after any major engine work (tune up, etc) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RICHARD SCHADE Posted February 1, 2011 Author Share Posted February 1, 2011 Waiter thanks for your advice, the injector is leaking on the out side its the rear one, don't have and mechanic in this area that I would trust to repair it right . I live out in the country and most of the mechanics out here are not factory schooled, I have to do this my self , but don't how to get the air manifold off, to get to the fuel rail, would like to get and on line manual, but where to look , if you know or can help I would be thank full. the motor home runs find , but would like to know if it is the injector leaking , or do they always leak at the o rings top or bottom, how can I tell witch. thanks Richard Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lee & Joan Posted February 1, 2011 Share Posted February 1, 2011 I would follow waiters advice first. You should be able to look down and see the rear injector to see where it is leaking if it is leaking outside. The injectors are a slip fit into the head on inner end and the fuel supply rail on the outer end. Both ends have a rubber seal. The fuel rail end has both an O ring and a grommet, while the head end has what they call an "insulator" which is rubber and looks like a grommet. The turbos also have a spacer. I rebuilt a head on one last year with really crappy "Insulators" yet they had not been leaking, but I did replace them anyway. You have to pull the air plenum to get at the fuel rail, it is not real fun. Try Waiters tips first. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
waiter Posted February 1, 2011 Share Posted February 1, 2011 88 Truck Factory Manual on line. Must have for anyone working on their truck. You may need to be a member of the Yahoo group for this link to work. http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/toyota-campers/links There are a couple links here, It looks like someone is hosting one of the PDFs the other is hosted in Google docs. This is an 84 Meg download, so don't try this unless you have high speed internet. You also need a Google Docs account just sign up when they ask. not a big deal. This link is hosted by someone. It may take several minutes to load the PDF file, so be patient. http://www.ncttora.com/fsm/87-4Runner/toyota_truck_and_4runner_88.pdf NOTE - If fuel is leaking externally, This is a must fix. If you ever drive down the road and see a car on the side in flames, think about leaking fuel system components. JOhn Mc 88 Dolphin 4 Auto Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
waiter Posted February 1, 2011 Share Posted February 1, 2011 Google "88 Toyota 22re fuel injector o ring" All kinds of stuff comes up. ALSO take a peek at this, This comes out of the Factory Service Manual (Replace everything, the o-rings and guides on all four injectors - These can be had at any Toyota dealer. http://personal.utulsa.edu/~nathan-buchanan/93fsm/engine/31injector.pdf Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
waiter Posted February 1, 2011 Share Posted February 1, 2011 Your not the first person, read this forum thread: http://www.yotatech.com/f116/leaking-fuel-injector-89-22re-145427/ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RICHARD SCHADE Posted February 1, 2011 Author Share Posted February 1, 2011 Waiter thanks for your advice, the injector is leaking on the out side its the rear one, don't have and mechanic in this area that I would trust to repair it right . I live out in the country and most of the mechanics out here are not factory schooled, I have to do this my self , but don't how to get the air manifold off, to get to the fuel rail, would like to get and on line manual, but where to look , if you know or can help I would be thank full. the motor home runs find , but would like to know if it is the injector leaking , or do they always leak at the o rings top or bottom, how can I tell witch. thanks Richard Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RICHARD SCHADE Posted February 1, 2011 Author Share Posted February 1, 2011 well Waiter got the air manifold off and the fuel rail off the rear injector s top o ring was swelled up and a mess, so I gest that was my leak, ordered all new seal kit from local advance auto 5.97 each, going to put all new rubber o rings top and bottom on all four injectors, never did get a manual just did it the old school way who first whats on second, a lot easier than I though, parts will be in tomorrow ,hope I remember where it all fits, wish me luck. and thanks so much for your help and moral support. , get back hopefull with a smile on my face. not bad for a 68 year old. Thanks RICHARD, SURE GLAD TO HAVE GREAT PLACE TO GET ADVICE, BEST THING WAS TO JOIN THIS GROUP. THANKS ALL Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Maineah Posted February 2, 2011 Share Posted February 2, 2011 The top half of the intake manifold has to come off. The fuel rail holds the sealing rings to the injectors once the manifold is off the fuel rail is right there and bolted to the bottom half of the manifold try to get the area around the injector as clean as you can so that no dirt gets in the injector ports when you take the rail off. It would be a very good ideal to relive the fuel pressure at the fuel inlet to the rail just wrap a rag around the fitting when you loosen it if it recently has been started the fuel pressure will be close to 35 psi. It's a time consumer but not a bad job don't forget the manifold gasket when you order the sealing rings. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
waiter Posted February 2, 2011 Share Posted February 2, 2011 If you can, take a picture of the offending injector and o-ring and post it. I have a philosophy in life, Its already broke, so whats the harm in trying to fix it. Good luck and you'll have piece of mind. When you get a chance, download that manual, there's a lot of good stuff in there. John Mc 88 Dolphin 4 Auto Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sunnynshare Posted February 2, 2011 Share Posted February 2, 2011 well Waiter got the air manifold off and the fuel rail off the rear injector s top o ring was swelled up and a mess, so I gest that was my leak, ordered all new seal kit from local advance auto 5.97 each, I would have recommended sending your injectors to witch hunter to be rebuilt -- they come back with new orings and grommets and it costs about 80 bucks. But your injectors might be okay. Kim Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lee & Joan Posted February 2, 2011 Share Posted February 2, 2011 The one I did last year was a 1991 California smogged pickup, you could not even see the valve cover for all the smog stuff on top. I had to number each hose and wire. The actual head removal and install was easy. There was one smog pipe bolted to the rear of the head in a little pocket in the firewall that took a while to find...until I did nothing else would free up. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RICHARD SCHADE Posted February 3, 2011 Author Share Posted February 3, 2011 If you can, take a picture of the offending injector and o-ring and post it. I have a philosophy in life, Its already broke, so whats the harm in trying to fix it. Good luck and you'll have piece of mind. When you get a chance, download that manual, there's a lot of good stuff in there. John Mc 88 Dolphin 4 Auto Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RICHARD SCHADE Posted February 3, 2011 Author Share Posted February 3, 2011 THANKS TO ALL FOR YOUR HELP. 88 Dolphin 4 Auto, had injectors lose Tuesday in about an hour, just disconnected what look like would stop the air manifold from coming lose , then rolled it on top of valve cover and took out the two bolts for the injector log, Then called local advance auto for seal kits four in all 5.97 each pick them up Wednesday at 7;45got home at 8:30, had it back together at 10:45 and running didn't have to drain water. so far no leaks and its been starting first time each time I try and is running great, hope it stay that a way. doing it the back yard mechanics way learned a few tricks. Ha Waiter lived on a sail boat for 22 years, are saying is if it works don;t fix it. Thanks for your help and this groups support, Richard Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
waiter Posted February 3, 2011 Share Posted February 3, 2011 GREAT :ThumbUp: I would do a master reset on the ECU - (remove power from the ECU for about 30 seconds by the fuse of the main battery. HOWEVER - Only do this if your able to drive the HM around for 15 or 20 minutes at various speeds (must be up to operating temperature for the ECU to enter closed loop) and accelerator settings. This will reset the Combustion tables inside the ECU and they will re-learn to optimize for best burn. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.