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Spungo mentioned in a recent post "a first generation 22RE"...we are in the process of LOOKING for our first Toyhome...and are working hard to do our homework correctly....what years are a first generation 22RE and would you recommend automatic or standard transmission?

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Some thing to think about all Gen 1 are carbed with 97 hp. The Gen II is 105 hp with a carb and 112 with EFI (22RE).

Gen I 81-85

Gen II 85-95

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  • 3 weeks later...

Not sure what constitutes 1st generation but the early 22r's (up to sometime in '82) had a dual row cam chain and were not susceptible to the infamous cam chain failures all of the later 22r/re's were. Replacing the factory smog carb with a Weber will do wonders for the power output.

The transmisson depends a-lot on what you prefer. There are functional and durability advantages to the standard trans as well as better performance and mileage but the auto's work OK. Biggest issue with the auto is it is more complex than the standard, has much more that can go wrong, and with age is more likely to have problems, and will probably be more costly to repair when it does. Of course if you don't like driving a standard you're not likely to be happy with one.

They all work quite well but really nice toyhomes are getting harder to find. If I was looking and came across a really nice one it wouldn't matter to me what drivetrain it had. As a matter of fact mine is an '86 which has an automatic (I hate automatics), fuel injection (I like Weber's), and a weak timing chain!

Spungo mentioned in a recent post "a first generation 22RE"...we are in the process of LOOKING for our first Toyhome...and are working hard to do our homework correctly....what years are a first generation 22RE and would you recommend automatic or standard transmission?

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Not sure what constitutes 1st generation but the early 22r's (up to sometime in '82) had a dual row cam chain and were not susceptible to the infamous cam chain failures all of the later 22r/re's were.

LC Engineering makes dual row timing chain conversion kits for anyone interested in eliminating this problem. LC Engineering makes high quality parts and you can actually get a live human on the phone for tech support.

http://www.toyotacatalog.net/M1WebGear/ProductSearch.aspx?Class=14680

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first gen 22RE would be the first injected ones which are '85 or '86. if it has a carb, it is a 22R. the E means fuel injection.

the double row chain is nice to have. some day i guess i will go to one, but, i don't think it's much of a concern until you get past 100K miles.

or at least i hope it ain't!

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I have limited experience with the campers but extensive experience with the 22re. My understanding with the timing chain is that the issues/failures aren't necessarily due to the single versus double row chain but rather plastic versus metal guides where the double row chains came with metal guides and the single row chains with plastic. I can say I've been inside multiple re's with well over 200k and found the plastic guide and single row chain intact. Will the single row chain stretch more than a double? Yes. Is it worth the headache of changing a timing chain? I'd say definitely not.

Oh, and by the way, thanks to the people who put together the forum, its been a big help thus far!

Edited by ekim121
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  • 2 weeks later...

derek, could you describe "audible warning" in a bit more detail. i think i may be having some.

at high rpm, 3rd gear over 60mph, approximately, i get what sounds to me like timing chain slap. used to get the same thing on an old cb750 i had. a tensioner adjustment took care of things on the honda. i don't believe the 22RE's tensioner is adjustable, but, i'll check.

right before last weeks trip up to maineah's place, i did an oil change and went to castro 20/50. i was previously using synthetic 10/40. i never noticed this cam chain noise before the oil change. maybe the heavier oil causes the chain to slap around more.

in an earlier post on this thread, i said i'd probably convert to the double row, but, looking at the price tag, i'm starting to think that if the original got it through 24 years and 85k, a high quality replacement single will probably do me just fine.

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The chain is more likely to rattle at idle once you speed it up a bit it usually goes away unless it really worn out. The biggest issue with a trashed chain is all the stuff it's putting in the crank case plastic etc and left alone it eventually cuts through the timing case and dumps all the antifreeze in the sump along with all that aluminum. No doubt the double roller chains last longer by the time they ware out it's time to rebuild the engine still you should be able to get 150K out of a single.

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