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Hi All--

Could crusing at 65- 70 mph (not in high elevations) with a 22re in a small RV (15' popup) cause the head gasket to blow? Or would that just indicate an old or weak gasket? This apparently happened to my Bandit, though it didn't feel like I was "forcing" the engine, except in a few cases when passing (when I got up to 75) or on a couple hills. Also, what swap options are there for this engine, if any? (a more powerful 4 cyl? I assume a 6 cyl not possible..)

best...

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Howdy...

Up at the top of this Forum is 4 pinned subjects.One of them is about engine swaps for Toys. Check that out. 75 mph. on an old MH. is extreme, in my opinion. Course, I'm only basing this on 35 years experience as a Mechanic.

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Absolutely, I don’t think I would want to go 75 in any 30 year old motor home! Even if you stuffed a 300 HP V8 in it, it still is going to turn some thing close to 4 grand at 75! Slow down enjoy the ride your 4 cylinder will get you where you are going pretty much the same time you would get there with the V8.

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Continuing to drive it while it was overheating would have caused the head gasket to fail and probably a bunch of other damage as well. Running it hard may have contributed to the overheating but wouldn't be the root cause. By far the best engine and easiest swap for that Bandit is another 22re. I would strongly recommend a new radiator along with the replacement engine.

Hi All--

Could crusing at 65- 70 mph (not in high elevations) with a 22re in a small RV (15' popup) cause the head gasket to blow? Or would that just indicate an old or weak gasket? This apparently happened to my Bandit, though it didn't feel like I was "forcing" the engine, except in a few cases when passing (when I got up to 75) or on a couple hills. Also, what swap options are there for this engine, if any? (a more powerful 4 cyl? I assume a 6 cyl not possible..)

best...

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Hi Tiava,

If you do decide to replace your 22RE with another 22RE, you can always put some speed equipment on it (e.g. hot rod) to increase the power. A Tri-Y header, full 2.5" exhaust, and a performance muffler will help for starters. You can always advance the timing and run higher grade gas to help even more. Or you can opt for LC Engineering's supercharger for the 22RE, on top of the headers, 2.5" exhaust and performance muffler! They have both a low boost (5 psi, 30 hp) and a high boost (10 psi, +55 hp) model to chose from.

I added the Doug Thorley Tri-Y header, full 2.5" exhaust, an Aero Turbine 2525 muffler, advanced the timing by 5 degrees, and now run premium gas in our 1985 21' Sunrader (premium is probably not required). Power and responsiveness of the engine is much improved, and this is with an automatic transmission! I am tempted to convert it to a 5 speed, then it will be even better (for sure, if something happens to the automatic).

Good luck with your motor, on whatever you decide to do!

Regards,

AllenL

Links:

Tri-Y Installed Pic - http://toyotamotorho...wimage&img=1497

2.5" Exhaust Pics - http://toyotamotorho...wimage&img=1493

LC Engineering Supercharger (Low Boost) - http://www.toyotacat...8F-E6DF0C03E232

Aero Turbine 2525 Muffler - http://www.aeroexhau...ce-muffler.html

Notes:

1) The exhaust is probably a little on the loud side

2) For the toyotamotohome links, clicking on any picture will enlarge it

3) I run our engine hard, especially pulling up hills! I am very impressed with this 22RE engine pulling these motor homes! The only time the engine gets on the warm side is if it is a hot day, 90'F plus and pulling up hills.

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HI ALl--

WOw--thanks for all this information--there's sure a lot of know-how out there!

Let me emphasize, though, that this is a small (15') popup--and it didn't feel like I was pushing the engine at 65-70--put maybe my misperception; this is an auto, and no tech gauge, so I don't know. I guess it was running out probably at the high end. But to clarify, the temp. gauge was always below center, the whole 1.4k trip, except at one point after I had pulled over for about an hr, then started back, idled a bit at a stop while waiting for a train, then shut of the engine. When I started again, the needle was up near the top; I did drive after that, more slowly, for a few miles--the needle during that time was toward the top of the running range, though not in the red. I pulled off at a station and the mechanic there suspected a stuck thermo. He replaced it and also checked the water pump, which he said appeared new, and said all was ok. The rediator is also new, btw. After that, for the next 300 miles, the temp stayed well below middle--and it wasn't overheating, I'm pretty sure, at the time of the incident (I was tired, but usually watch that guage pretty closely)--just a bunch of white smoke suddenly and then, when I tried to start again an hr later, the seized engine... I did drive slowly maybe another 1/2 mile after the first burst of smoke, but still no overheating that I noticed. The engine was running when I shut it down. So I'm not even absolutely sure it is a blown gasket, but just can't figure what else... In any case, this bit about the low temp, at least according to the guage, which seems to be working, is puzzling me...

Now you've got me wondering--maybe the guy I bought it from just got a cheap salvage to get it sold? Though there is the new radiator, so I don't know...

Edited by tlava
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That does sounds like a head gasket. The engine may not be seized, but have a cylinder full of water on a compression stroke. It will not move forward. Pull the plugs and see if any have water. If it cranks over and spits out water from one or more, it is probably just a gasket. A compression test would confirm it.

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