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1988 sunrader gasket sizes


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Hello! Total newbie here. I’ve read through the posts but don’t seem to see anywhere that mentions the size of window gaskets that I should purchase for my 88 sunrader 21 foot. 
just diving in to see if I can’t get the leaky windows fixed . Both wrap around and dining and bathroom windows .  Not sure if the same size I’ve seen posted for other years is the same for the 88. Any help is appreciated! Thanks in advance :)

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  • 5 months later...
On 2/4/2024 at 12:28 AM, linda s said:

Just confirming is the 1/4" side for the edges of the glass like it says, or do you flip it around? The old seals that were on mine had the 1/4 part on the sunrader itself. seems to make sense since the glass in thinner than the rader itself. 

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Once the wraparounds are out, you may find the body edges vary from over 1/4" to 1/8".  As a result, the seal easily "tips" and slips off during install. 

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There must be a gasket out there somewhere that has a deeper lip so it can accommodate the difference’s. I’d start talking to some boat builders, they must deal with this kind of issue from time to time.

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I spent hours on it.  Boat builders don't use these gaskets anymore.  I discovered commercial fishing boats still do a bit and called a couple in England.  Europe still has a few industries that do - laboratory doors, old elevator doors.  Some construction and commercial equipment (cabs on bulldozers and such).  But most of them use windows that go into stamped sheetmetal with extra recesses like a moat around the window for added strength, etc.  I looked up English rubber gasket makers, tried some east bloc countries, wading through their websites in Russian, etc.  Zippo.  

 

These were the best/closest to the original seals, but the difference between a quarter inch lip and a half inch lip is a 100% increase in stability during install.  I don't know what the OP will find when his windows are out, but the huge variation in body lip thickness of 100% or more (most spots 3/16, up to a foot of 1/8, and each side had several locations that were slightly over a quarter inch (right on the tight curves where install is already the most difficult spot).  That makes the extra length of the gasket lips crucial to staying in place while you are prying. Or, with too-short lips, you must get caulking in there to ensure these variations don't allow it to leak while driving at 88 feet/second (60mph) into rain which will cause pressurized water all around that poor seal.  And guess what that caulk is while you're working?  A lubricant to help the lips slip off the coach side...

 

I bought the correct tools for this, including the handle for the pry tools, and the little tool with a tiny steel ball that helps install the built in "key" on the gasket.  Had two strong guys to try it. Nice day, warm seals. No dice.  Not even close. 

Edited by IdahoDoug
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No you didn't buy the closest seals You bought the one piece seal and the originals were the 2 piece seals. The 2 piece is all I have ever bought and I never had a problem installing front windows. It's a pain but doable by an old lady working by herself in less than a day. I've done 5 Sunraders. Have you watched the videos. I've never used the tools but seems like you already have. Can't imagine how you are having so much trouble

Linda S

Job completed and the gaskets worked! No more leaks!!! Thanks to all who shared their knowledge above. I could not have done it otherwise.

I found these videos very useful. The SunRader video needs to be watched over and over because of the fast-mo. I know why they did it - the job takes FOREVER. 

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3QGtJkAFPl8

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2NFd6A9lWvI

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yVUL7Y-FBos

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fbqarorplYE

Here are my lessons learned...

Wear gloves. The edges of the plexiglass are sharp.

The plexi looks warped when installed but flat when removed. This is normal. The tension fit with the gaskets causes the bowing.

When installing the gasket on the fiberglass shell, do not use soapy water because you want the rubber to really grab onto the camper shell.

When installing the windows, use tons of soapy solution. I mixed 1 tbs of dish liquid with warm water in a quart size sprayer. It was enough to lubricate but not so much that it did not evaporate after installation.

I found these tools invaluable and they save me a ton of time:

Locking strip insertion tool

Windshield Rubber Installation Tool

 

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The seals are identical as far as I know - dimensions the same, but I tried the integrated locking piece.  Wouldn't have mattered, as I never got the seal on to proceed to the locking phase. Are you available fir an all expense paid trip to beautiful Coeur d' Alene!!?  Heh..

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