New Horizon Newbie Posted January 2, 2019 Share Posted January 2, 2019 My old girl has been parked for over a year - waiting for help. I started her up about every month or two - started and ran like a champ. When it was time to sell - no juice. The buyer "wiggled a red wire" and she started. However, we didn't even get as far as checking the tail lights and all that. The running lights around the cabin had been dysfunctional - they all went out at once the month before I parked it. Turns out that was just the beginning. I had expected this kind of problem when I had to deal with roof damage and subsequent leaks. The leaks have been sealed and she's had quite a while to dry out, so at least the damage is controlled. Now corrosion is my #1 enemy. At this point I just need to get her legal and running. Back to no juice. I found the fuse box next to the battery. The 10 and 7.5 amp fuses are intact and contacts reasonably clean. However, the 40 amp box fuse labelled AM1 (?alternator?) and the 80 amp box fuse labelled AM1 Glow are both obviously corroded. I can pull the 40 to replace it but cannot remove the 80 amp fuse. From what I learned online, I needed to remove the fuse box from the body and turn the unit upside-down to access a screw(s) to remove it. I got as far as trying to turn it over. There is are 2 bundles of wires coming out the bottom that the truck instructions don't mention or show. My first guess is that they are RV related. the bundle is anchored to the body with an adhesive cable tie that's holding other stuff up too. If I cut the cable tie and free the bundles, will I be able to access what I need to do to remove the 80 amp fuse? Is there another way to remove it? Obviously, I'll have plenty of tangles to go through once I change the fuses. But that's another post. I sure love this site! Been visiting since well before I was able to buy my own rig. I lived in her for 2 years while exploring Oregon. She has gone where no Toy RV has gone before! Thanks for any light y'all can shine! Oh - where do I need to look to find other truck related fuses and/or boxes? Annie Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Maineah Posted January 3, 2019 Share Posted January 3, 2019 If the 80 amp is bad there is a reason a big one and it's probably OK You can pry the little window off the 80 amp and test it with a voltmeter or test light without removing it. It is a pain to get the 80 amp out no easy way. The 40 amp is a body fuse ohm meter will check that. I would have a good look at battery connections if the have a replacement end remove the two small bolts and clean them up under the clamp that holds down the big wire. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
New Horizon Newbie Posted January 4, 2019 Author Share Posted January 4, 2019 Thank you so much! I opened the top of the 80 amp fuse and Very carefully scraped off the greenish corrosion. The element looks intact. I cleaned the 40 amp and it's good also. I'm checking the three wires that attach to the positive terminal. They had obviously been "fixed" by a PO. I found one splice that I'm going to clean up (re-do it). I might get brave at that point and reconnect all 3 wires back to the positive terminal and see if she has any power. I found the fuse box under the far left of the steering column. Why do they make them so hard to access??? (saves $ on production to use less wire?) Every fuse I checked looked good, but for the slot labeled Cig Lighter - it was empty - it had fallen out. I replaced it but the one to the right has two wires tucked into the fuse's slot. What???? I've never seen anything like it. Could it be where someone had added an accessory (cb?) and they took a short cut? Either way, I didn't mess with it because it was too difficult to access, if I had to put it back together as I found it. The helpful info on this site is very much appreciated. I've loved the concept of a Toyota powered RV since I first heard of them. I knew I was getting into a project, but there's always more work than anticipated with these rigs. LILA (Living in a Little Abode) has served me so well for basic needs and the ability to explore more than I could with a car or a big RV. Even as I prepare to sell/trade her, I become more fond of her abilities and potential (potential - as in Work!). Thanks again for the info! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gulfstream Greg Posted January 4, 2019 Share Posted January 4, 2019 18 hours ago, New Horizon Newbie said: Thank you so much! I opened the top of the 80 amp fuse and Very carefully scraped off the greenish corrosion. The element looks intact. The greenish corrosion is a red flag. Never seen that. Someone correct me if I am wrong, I believe the 80 amp is bolted in. You need to test it with a voltmeter making sure it has 12 volts on each side of it. Even so if where it bolts up it is corroded it could be a problem. Unbolt it, run a continuity test on it, if it's good clean everything up and bolt it back together. Disconnect your battery before you do all that. As Maineah said start at the battery cleaning all the posts and clamps etc. + and -. If your battery clamps are after market, the kind where the cable slips into a clamp take it apart, spread apart the wires of the cable and use a wire brush to remove the corrosion. I like to apply some Noalox® Anti-Oxidant Compound to the wires before reassembling. Another thing to check is your battery ground cables. There should be two ground wires, battery to engine and battery to chassis or engine to chassis. Rare that they have problems but worth a check. Your best friend and tool is a multitester! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
New Horizon Newbie Posted January 4, 2019 Author Share Posted January 4, 2019 Time to learn how to use a test meter! My guess regarding the corrosion on the 80 amp, I spent about 6 months at the oregon coast then drove it in July to the great southwestern desert. They are both rather extreme climates. Just guessing... Thanks again for your input! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gulfstream Greg Posted January 5, 2019 Share Posted January 5, 2019 19 hours ago, New Horizon Newbie said: Time to learn how to use a test meter! My guess regarding the corrosion on the 80 amp, I spent about 6 months at the oregon coast then drove it in July to the great southwestern desert. They are both rather extreme climates. Just guessing... Thanks again for your input! Your welcome, here is a guide to multi meter use, it seems pretty good but I did not completely read through it. https://randomnerdtutorials.com/how-to-use-a-multimeter/ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
A Seabee Posted January 15, 2019 Share Posted January 15, 2019 (edited) there is a fusible link under your hood as well. Best I can remember, it's a wire that goes from the battery(?) to the junction box under the hood. Edited January 16, 2019 by A Seabee Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Maineah Posted January 16, 2019 Share Posted January 16, 2019 Don't believe the 86 had a fuse link. Usually the fuse link was a yellow wire of a small gauge with sort of squishy isolation they were problematic and only were are around for a few years lots of vehicles used them they had a tendency to burn wire close to them when short circuited. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
A Seabee Posted January 16, 2019 Share Posted January 16, 2019 (edited) test light and a digital volt ohm meter. I would not rule out a fuse link, and I personally think 86 had them. most that I saw were white, squishy insulated, kinda fat wire. not real easy to change either. the smaller wire that goes from the + battery cable clamp to the fuse box/junction box. check for continuity from the positive batt terminal to the 80A fuse. Edited January 16, 2019 by A Seabee Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
New Horizon Newbie Posted February 13, 2019 Author Share Posted February 13, 2019 Update: after replacing one of the wires from the positive terminal (a piece of wire of a smaller gauge was spliced in by a PO - I used the larger gauge) and cleaning the contacts on the 80 amp, she started right up! Now onto running lights. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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