sunvader Posted April 24, 2008 Share Posted April 24, 2008 (edited) Hi Folks, Well, the time has come to do my conversion. I bought a 1989 Toyota 1 ton cube truck from U-Haul as the doner vehicle. I'm guessing, I will have all the parts needed and a garden shed for my wife. The other good part about having the whole truck is that I will have a serial number for parts on the axle. Recipient: 1980 Sunrader on a 1978 chassis. Do the Spring mount pads need relocating? Is the U-bolt/Shock mount too narrow, If so, can the old ones be salvaged and put in place? I also would like to swap the front axle as well. Does anyone know what is required, is it just the hub that needs swapping? Parking Brake? All help would be greatly appreciated. Edited April 24, 2008 by sunvader Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Yostfmx Posted May 7, 2008 Share Posted May 7, 2008 Should change the fronts too. Don't know what that intails? Thats a nice box van! Would make a good motorhome. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BlingFree Posted May 7, 2008 Share Posted May 7, 2008 is that the truck that was on craigslist? you somewhere in MO? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shandamac Posted August 7, 2008 Share Posted August 7, 2008 Hey Sunvader, I've been out of the loop for a little while. How's the rearend swap going? Shandamac Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sunvader Posted August 8, 2008 Author Share Posted August 8, 2008 (edited) BlingFree, The truck was found in Toronto. The swap is now done. A couple of curveballs were encountered. Basically I made a deal with the mechanic and I traded the U-Haul truck for the work and we both thought that front axles were interchangable. Well they weren't. The mechanic said it would take a day to do the job for both front and rear (This was a 2 way swap). However, with the front not being done it still took a whole day and I kept my word and gave him the U-Haul. The rear leaf spring mounts were widened and the U-bolt/shock mounting plates were modified. The bolt pattern on the drive shaft also had to be modified. The only solution for the front wheels as everybody knows was the 5 - 6 bolt front wheel adapters which costed $500 including duties and brokerage fees shipped to Canada ($360 before shipping). Then I had to buy 2 rims since the U-Haul need to keep them for the front, so I bought 4 anyway ($270 for 4 rims from Toyota). PLEASE note everyone. The guy in California, Custom Wheel Design that sold me the adapters also sells rims for $130 which is crazy. Toyota sells them for $60 each... yes Toyota! Which makes me think how overpriced the adapters are, but then again there is no other option on the adapters. So the swap costed me $770 plus the cost of the U-Haul $1100. My next problem is fixing the curved front plexi-glass which seems to have shifted and causing leaks. shandamac I see you have a pillar in the front of your RV avoiding the curved glass, which seems better in preventing the plexi from popping out. Was that a modification? Edited August 8, 2008 by sunvader Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shandamac Posted August 8, 2008 Share Posted August 8, 2008 PLEASE note everyone. The guy in California, Custom Wheel Design that sold me the adapters also sells rims for $130 which is crazy. Toyota sells them for $60 each... yes Toyota! Which makes me think how overpriced the adapters are, but then again there is no other option on the adapters.My next problem is fixing the curved front plexi-glass which seems to have shifted and causing leaks. shandamac I see you have a pillar in the front of your RV avoiding the curved glass, which seems better in preventing the plexi from popping out. Was that a modification? SV Great tip on the adapters. I'll be contacting Toyota for those. (I'll have more to say on my 6 lug rearend swap out later.) As far as I can tell, Sadie never had the wrap around windows. I wish she did. I think they look really cool! I learned from this forum that Butyl putty is the way to go when resealing windows. It's amazing stuff! I bought several rolls from a local glass repair shop and O'Reilly's. (The black sticky tar like stuff....not the grey.) It comes in several thickness'. I used way more than the normal amount resealing Sadie's windows. Honestly, I'd gamble that her windows won't ever leak again....ever. I bet butyl would work wonders with the wrap around windows. Wishing you many safe and dry road trips! shandamac Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sunvader Posted August 8, 2008 Author Share Posted August 8, 2008 Thanks. Just for the record, I was talking about the 6 lug rims from Toyota. Not the adapters. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
motoyhomme Posted August 8, 2008 Share Posted August 8, 2008 Sunraders with the wrap around windows were made in Vallejo, California. The ones without the wrap arounds were built in Indiana. At least that's what I read somewhere, why the change I don't know. Allen Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
turtle Posted August 9, 2008 Share Posted August 9, 2008 You can get the rubber gasket for the front windows at any auto glass shop. It is sold by the foot and comes in 2 styles. One style has the bead insertion (which is the one originally used) the other style is a beadless one where the rubber folds inside itself to make the press seal. I used the beadless kind when I replaced my gasket last year as I thought it looked cleaner (which it does). http://www.toymike.com/sunrader/pics/plexi3.jpg Once you have the plexi out, get some Maguires plexiglas cleaner and polish and give it a good going over to remove the pitting... Trust me, you will find a LOT of pitting in the plexi. http://www.toymike.com/sunrader/pics/plexi4.jpg It will tale a LOT of elbow grease and at least 4 passes to get all of it out but it is worth it and the plexi comes out looking like new http://www.toymike.com/sunrader/pics/plexi6.jpg Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sunvader Posted August 9, 2008 Author Share Posted August 9, 2008 Thanks for the tips. Which one would be the stronger seal to use? My front centre pillar is bulging a bit, because my window is not seated in properly. Leaves me to think that the plexi does bear some weight and the strongest seal would be best. One other question, Is the Fibreglass on that sunrader Painted White? I was thinking of having mine painted. Is that recommended at all? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
turtle Posted August 10, 2008 Share Posted August 10, 2008 There is no weight on the windows. If the center is bending then either something happened or your body is under stress somewhere (maybe a past accident or something). The difference between the 2 gasket types is mostly appearance. The two piece type has an obvious bead in the center, the fold over one piece type looks like a solid gasket once interlocked. The 2 piece would be more solid as it has a solid rubber sealing bead. Here is the manufactures web site but they only sell in LARGE quantity (100' rolls). Any auto glass shop should have both types. I can't remember how log of a piece I purchased and will try to look for my receipt BUT buy more than you need as this stuff is not cheap and if you short yourself you have to buy another stip of gasket as it does not streatch. http://www.trimlok.com/SearchResult.aspx?CategoryID=16 The fiberglass bodies were not painted and you can buff the white gelcoat back to original condition using these 3M products. For heavy oxidation use this product http://www.3mestore.com/60980106938.html For lighter oxidation use this product http://www.3mestore.com/60980032449.html Once you have the gelcoat back to a high gloss you can maintain it with this product http://www.3mestore.com/60980035541.html These are all marine fiberglass gelcoat care products. Do yourself a favor and get a good quality random orbital buffer to apply these products and WEAR A MASK as they contain stuff that you DO NOT want to get inside of you. I have found this to be a killer buffer http://www.deltaportercable.com/Products/ProductDetail.aspx?ProductID=11080 If you do not want to do this yourself you may want to call a few auto detail shops and ask them if they would buff your coach body if you provide the product and buffer pads. Measure your sides, roof, and back and give them the sq ft of the fiberglass so that they do not think you are going to bring in a 42' bus conversion or bring it in so that they can take a look in person. Having it buffed out by a shop will cost less then the price of the delta buffer and once it is done it should be easy to maintain with the 3m marine wax as long as you do not let it dull out again. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Totem Posted March 14, 2012 Share Posted March 14, 2012 BlingFree, The truck was found in Toronto. The swap is now done. A couple of curveballs were encountered. Basically I made a deal with the mechanic and I traded the U-Haul truck for the work and we both thought that front axles were interchangable. Well they weren't. The mechanic said it would take a day to do the job for both front and rear (This was a 2 way swap). However, with the front not being done it still took a whole day and I kept my word and gave him the U-Haul. The rear leaf spring mounts were widened and the U-bolt/shock mounting plates were modified. The bolt pattern on the drive shaft also had to be modified. The only solution for the front wheels as everybody knows was the 5 - 6 bolt front wheel adapters which costed $500 including duties and brokerage fees shipped to Canada ($360 before shipping). Then I had to buy 2 rims since the U-Haul need to keep them for the front, so I bought 4 anyway ($270 for 4 rims from Toyota). PLEASE note everyone. The guy in California, Custom Wheel Design that sold me the adapters also sells rims for $130 which is crazy. Toyota sells them for $60 each... yes Toyota! Which makes me think how overpriced the adapters are, but then again there is no other option on the adapters. So the swap costed me $770 plus the cost of the U-Haul $1100. My next problem is fixing the curved front plexi-glass which seems to have shifted and causing leaks. shandamac I see you have a pillar in the front of your RV avoiding the curved glass, which seems better in preventing the plexi from popping out. Was that a modification? I am in adapter oooo myself now...did find an alternative adapter manufacturer; however having trouble getting what the 5 lug bolt pattern is... anyone know? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sunvader Posted March 15, 2012 Author Share Posted March 15, 2012 I am in adapter oooo myself now...did find an alternative adapter manufacturer; however having trouble getting what the 5 lug bolt pattern is... anyone know? I believe that the 5 bolt pattern is 5 X 114.3 P.S. It has been a long time since I've been on the forum. I have since sold my Sunradar and bought a 94 V6 Warrior. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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