sunvader

I believe that the 5 bolt pattern is 5 X 114.3 P.S. It has been a long time since I've been on the forum. I have since sold my Sunradar and bought a 94 V6 Warrior.

Hi Folks, I tried http://www.tweetys.com/ and They don't seem to carry it anymore. I'm looking for the rubber trim/seal that holds the plexi window in place.

Thanks for the tips. Which one would be the stronger seal to use? My front centre pillar is bulging a bit, because my window is not seated in properly. Leaves me to think that the plexi does bear some weight and the strongest seal would be best. One other question, Is the Fibreglass on that sunrader Painted White? I was thinking of having mine painted. Is that recommended at all?

Thanks. Just for the record, I was talking about the 6 lug rims from Toyota. Not the adapters.

BlingFree, The truck was found in Toronto. The swap is now done. A couple of curveballs were encountered. Basically I made a deal with the mechanic and I traded the U-Haul truck for the work and we both thought that front axles were interchangable. Well they weren't. The mechanic said it would take a day to do the job for both front and rear (This was a 2 way swap). However, with the front not being done it still took a whole day and I kept my word and gave him the U-Haul. The rear leaf spring mounts were widened and the U-bolt/shock mounting plates were modified. The bolt pattern on the drive shaft also had to be modified. The only solution for the front wheels as everybody knows was the 5 - 6 bolt front wheel adapters which costed $500 including duties and brokerage fees shipped to Canada ($360 before shipping). Then I had to buy 2 rims since the U-Haul need to keep them for the front, so I bought 4 anyway ($270 for 4 rims from Toyota). PLEASE note everyone. The guy in California, Custom Wheel Design that sold me the adapters also sells rims for $130 which is crazy. Toyota sells them for $60 each... yes Toyota! Which makes me think how overpriced the adapters are, but then again there is no other option on the adapters. So the swap costed me $770 plus the cost of the U-Haul $1100. My next problem is fixing the curved front plexi-glass which seems to have shifted and causing leaks. shandamac I see you have a pillar in the front of your RV avoiding the curved glass, which seems better in preventing the plexi from popping out. Was that a modification?

Thanks BufBooth and Keith Wow. Sounds like more trouble. I am getting my rims Chrome Powder Coated and I don't want this ugly white/rusty/greasy centre hub in the middle of nice chromed rims. Any other suggestions on what to do to the centre hub?

Thanks for the reply, but I still unsure what I need to do. If you don't mind can you please refer to the picture. Thanks

I would like to remove this part so I can get it sand blasted and powder-coated. It's not as straight forward as a regular rear end where you un bolt your wheel and pry it off.

Would anybody else like a copy? Just PM me your email. I will automatically send you the U.S. version unless you specify the Canadian version. The good thing is that it allows you to keep an electronic log of your trips.

On my 18' 1980 Sunradar (78 Chassis) and a 20R motor. I am averaging 14.5 MPG with 3 people and gear. Does this Sound Right? To calculate this I'm using an excel sheet I created. I thought that maybe I can share this with you folks. I initially created it for Litres/100 Km, so I made one for you folks South of the border. I just Realized I'm not allowed to upload an excel sheet. Any ideas?

Cool. What is the sleeping capacity. I see there is no oven. Is there a fridge? Toilet/shower?

The guy with the wheel adapters doesn't have them. I've search Hi and Low for the simulators with no success. Any help would be appreciated.

I did order the adapter earlier this week. So I will have 6 bolt all the way around. Do you know of anywhere else I can find the wheel simulators, seeing as they will fit all my wheels now. BTW http://www.customcommercialwheel.com/ sells the 6 bolt rims for $156. I was able to order them from Toyota at $60 a piece.

UPDATE: I spoke with the seller of the simulators. This guy is a nut. He said that if we want simulators we'd have to buy 25 at $225 each set. He was selling 1 for that price. I guess, there no volume discount.

I am just completing my 5 - 6 Bolt 1 ton conversion on my 78 Sunrader and I thought I'd reward myself in buying the Stainless Wheel simulators that were available on eBay from wheelsimulators.com. As my luck would have it, the seller sold his last set last week and has no plans to have anymore made unless he has an order of 25 or more. If anyone here has these simulators and would like to sell them, please send me a message. Also, if you know about someone selling them. This really sucks.

Hi Folks, Well, the time has come to do my conversion. I bought a 1989 Toyota 1 ton cube truck from U-Haul as the doner vehicle. I'm guessing, I will have all the parts needed and a garden shed for my wife. The other good part about having the whole truck is that I will have a serial number for parts on the axle. Recipient: 1980 Sunrader on a 1978 chassis. Do the Spring mount pads need relocating? Is the U-bolt/Shock mount too narrow, If so, can the old ones be salvaged and put in place? I also would like to swap the front axle as well. Does anyone know what is required, is it just the hub that needs swapping? Parking Brake? All help would be greatly appreciated.

I have a 4 speed. I'm not big on engine upgrades, I would have bought a ford or GMC motorhome if that was the case. Maybe a 22RE, but I think I'll see how it goes with the axle upgrade. So what you are saying is that even an 88 axle will require some modifications to install it? Would a 410 have a lower top speed then a 390?

Hi Folks, I plan on changing the 5 bolt rear axle on my 1980 18' Sunrader (1978 Toyota Chassis). In my search for a rear 6 bolt dual wheel axle I have the option of a 3:90 or a 4:10. Does it matter which rear axle I choose. The reason for the change is obviously the recall, however I do need the capacity to tow a boat that is about 1200 lbs (boat motor and trailer) with 100 lbs tongue weight. The questions: 3:90 or 4:10 (does it matter)? Does it matter which year the doner truck is, given that it is a 1987 - 1993? Pending the year, will this axle just bolt on? Any tips? Thanks in advance!

Carfax only takes 17 digit VIN numbers. Mine is a 6 digit.

You are correct, it's the coach builder that determines the year. However it is important to know what year your chassis is for parts orders from toyota. I figured this out today since my toyota was the year before a redesign. So... Chassis 1978 Built 1979 Registered as a 1980 I was looking into getting a grille. I told the dealer that it's the 2 piece grille from a 1979. He said there is no 2 piece grill for that year. That's when we figured out that it is actually a 1978 chassis.

Correction, the chassis is actually a 1978 Toyota (Not 1979).

Hi Folks, This my first post. I was bent on getting a Sunrader and I just picked one up today. The chassis is a 1979, however it was sold as a 1980. Doesn't really need much work. Here is a picture of our new Toy. What do you guys think?