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My Toyota Motorhome


Found 25 results

  1. Hey everyone, thought I'd share some of the work my wife and I have been doing on our 4x4 Sunrader. We bought it in August 2017 in Bozeman, MT. We drove it around the west coast for a while and then made our way to Florida to begin a renovation on it. My wife and I have been living in a VW Vanagon for the last two years and decided to make the move to the Sunrader for the extra room, 4WD, Toyota reliability, and cheaper parts. We started the renovation at the beginning of November and are currently still working on it. We've heavily documented the process with photos, videos, and blog posts so I'll try not to be too redundant and post links here. I'll keep posting as we have more to show! Her name is Amelia and this was her before we started working on her. There's plenty more picture of her and her interior before we started the process over here: http://www.boundfornowhere.com/blog/2017/new-home-on-wheels Our goal was to start with a clean slate on renovation so we tore her down to the fiberglass and salvaged what we could. We found LOTS of dead mice in the walls which made us feel better about peeling back everything so we could get a fresh start. Here is a video of that process: We also cover it with some photos and writing in this blog post. This post also shows our first attempts at fiberglassing as we decided to teach ourselves. http://www.boundfornowhere.com/blog/build-out-week-1-2 I'll leave it at here for now. Don't want to overwhelm you with too much all at once. Be back soon with some more process. -MAK and Owen
  2. Hey all, just bought an ‘84 Dolphin 700 with all of the original fixtures. 90k miles. The original power converter is installed and it looks like the PO had wired in some solar panels and may have added a solar controller, although it looks like it’s from the same era as the converter. So two batteries, one right next to the converter, seems added, and the battery box that you can access from the outside. Both were dead and when I hooked up a new battery in the outside box the converter “Click” “Pings” and the lights go dim and then brighten in ten second intervals. I’ve done some reading and I think it’s the auto reset breaker, which I have located, but it’s soldered in and riveted in place. Doesn’t seem like a replacement item so maybe this PO really fried things? Just looking for some experience since I have never RV’d before. Thanks.
  3. I have no Check Engine Light! The FSM tells me how to test the ECU unit with a multi meter. but the normal operation should have the light engage when I turn the key and off after I start it. I have had the ECU unit rebuilt. but I have not retested the new part. I guess I will do that next. but first let me bring you up to speed. i have just installed a new block and tried to button up all of the electricals. There is no check engine light. I have looked at the fuses they are good or at least they look good. I have checked the big relay fuses in the engine bay. relays intact and showing 0 ohms resistance. I have pulled and switched the bulbs in the instrument cluster. the bulbs are good. charged the battery and tested the voltage it holds 12.8v or so. the fuel tank has 1/2 full fuel. the ignition fires. spark comes through the coil into the distributor down the lines into new plugs. timing has been set and double checked. my rig is A/T and it will crank in P or N but not the drive gears. FSM testing of the Ignition coil seems like there is low voltage if testing from the Positive side to the hole in the middle. It cranks but not as strong as I would like. it fires up on the first turn of the key but does not run. second try it fires and dies. third try it does not want to fire again. could I have a bad fuel pump or relay? If the Check Engine light does not engage is still should run though right? just poorly? if I could get the ECU to talk to me I could fix the physical problems but electricity is my nemesis. Please help me and flipper to get moving again! it is the season to explore and visit!
  4. Got 3 new jell pack batteries one reg red top and 2 yellow top deep cycles. All charging too good. What I mean is there charging at 15.5 volts. How do I reduce the charge to 13.5 volts I have a 1983 sunrader 22r engine carberated. I have a solar panel which is turned off while driving. 280 with it's own separate reg.
  5. Happy Friday - I installed a new fridge (Whynter FM45G) on my 1990 Toyota Itasca Spirit and hardwired it to the fuse box. Last night it was working for an hour as I continued to work on the rig until I called it a night. Woke up this morning and went out to go work on her some more and I noticed that all of the power that comes from the new fuse panel is dead. Since solar was added to the rig, there is a separate fuse box than the standard fuse panel located under the couch which takes care of all of the standard electrical this vehicle was originally equipped with. This new fuse box powers an inverter, mppt controller, 2 - 12 volt sockets, and now a fridge. The only thing that works on this new fuse box is the mppt charge controller, everything else is dead. I replaced all of the fuses to see if that would restore any of the power but nothing. Couldn't find any pinched wires that would short anything out. All of the original electrical the vehicle came equipped with is working (lights, stove fan, etc.) What could be the issue here?
  6. What's up guys - I just bought a 1990 Toyota Winnebago and have been working on it daily. Currently, I am replacing the standard light fixtures with LEDs. I was replacing the first fixture and started stripping the two wires to connect to the new LED fixture and as I stripped the second wire, half of the lights went out on one side of the rig while the other stayed on. I now realize that stripping wires with all of the power on was not a good idea..The air vent fan doesn't work either. The RV has a 250 watt solar system attached to it. I checked the wiring with a probe and all of the wiring and devices that are not on (lights, air vent fan) have power coming into them, so they are hot. Any advice on how to get the power back on and what the issue could be? Thanks in advance.
  7. Newbie here. Starting a full remodel on an ‘84 Sunrader 21’ and want to add some more outlets for convenience in the overhead cab area and back dining area. I moved the kitchen outlet from the front of the cabinet (for a more streamlined look) to under the cabinets in a waterproof box and am using a pop-up outlet on top of the counter to keep things neat and dry. I would post pics but keep getting errors... From there, I have run a 12/2 continuous line to either side of the overcab area and want to use speedbox receptacles there since there is little room. I am weighing the merits of AFCI/GFCI use in the kitchen cabinet box as well as the outlet above the refrigerator on the opposite side—I’m unfamiliar with RV wiring/load and have some concerns. I assume also they must be 15A as opposed to 20A. Has anyone used AFCI/GFCIs in their RV projects and have they been too sensitive? I hear they tend to trip a lot. Also, any trouble with adding on outlets on the runs in the Sunrader. Thoughts? Thanks!
  8. I bought a 1984 Damon Escaper my first RV . I believe the isolator isn't working properly but I don't know. I need to know if there's a secondary power switch or if when I take the keys out it why disconnects both batteries.I can't have the lights on in the camper if I don't have the car set to ACC . I know I need to buy a voltage meter but I'm just trying to check if I'm missing where the switches or if the isolator could be broken mind you if I take out the house battery all the lights in the camper turn off either way. Also I just bought both the batteries brand new
  9. When I bought my 78 micro mini Sunrider last fall the coach battery, a group 27 deep cycle marine, was located under the dinette bench along with an old power converter the previous owner had installed The battery was wired and getting juice from the engine battery but wasn't going through the isolator which he showed me was mounted under the hood near the empty battery tray where I assume the coach battery was intended to live. After doing a bit of research I just picked up a set of 6 V golf cart batteries to upgrade my coach battery capacity. Here is what I'm looking to do and I could use some advice from anyone who's got more experience with this stuff than me, which is probably most of you. Lol. I've now got the 2 6V batteries wired in series under the dinette bench making one 12 V combo. I'd like to move the marine deep cycle to the tray under the hood and have everything go through the isolator the way it should be to protect the engine battery . Does this make sense? What's the best way to wire it up so that I am drawing power from both the new 12v combo and the marine deep cycle or is it a bad idea having the two batteries far away from each other. Also, I haven't come across anything that looks like a power center. Any ideas where it would be located or even if these early models had a power center would be helpful. Thanks.
  10. Hey Friends, My last topic was looking for an original owner's manual to hopefully answer this question myself. However, I was informed that owner's manuals were more or less expanded brochures, and not of much use. (By the way, I have a '78 Dolphin Micro Mini.) This question is sort of related to the truck, but it's mostly related to the coach...I'm wondering how the batteries work? Or specifically, how the power works. I have a regular car battery, and a deep cycle battery. At least that's how I understand it. The gentleman who sold me the camper said that the main battery is dead (it totally is), and that the car itself is running off of the deep cycle battery (which, will likely also need replaced). So...how does all this work? I imagine both batteries must be charged by the alternator, but like, which battery powers what, currently? And did these campers come with a generator, originally? I can't find one, so I'm guessing no. How does shore power factor into this? Those wires are janky, and I'll likely have to replace it, but like, on the campers little grid, where does everything fit in? A primer would be nice, if someone would like to take the time to educate a noob. Or, if you prefer to point me toward a resource where this information would be found. I've looked through here and found lots of awesome resources about troubleshooting, repair, and enhancement/addition...but nothing that really gives me a primer on how the system worked out of the factory. Thanks in advance!
  11. While on our first camping trip this weekend in our 1986 Toyota SeaBreeze and were hooked up to site power, we tripped the breaker (we think) by trying to run too many things at once (4 outlets in use with small heater, hot water electric kettle, tv and dvd player). My husband reset the breaker out at the power source at site but still no power inside? Lights worked off battery however. Are we missing something? Is there a breaker box in the motorhome we also needed to reset? He couldn't find it. We are complete newbies to all of this and have no owners manual!!
  12. Pardon my ignorance and thanks for any and all help. I have an '85 Sea Breeze and am wondering if I can run my outlets off of my coach battery? It works when plugged in to 110 but hoping there is a switch somewhere to allow the 12 volt to run the outlets. Also, my coach battery, while old, worked well then weakened and lost all power. I plugged my RV in (supposedly charges both engine and coach batteries) and left it for a few days (I have done this before and thought it was appropriate). Nada. I hooked it up to a battery charger and later realized it was almost completely dry and of course would not hold a charge. It seems by leaving it hooked up to 110 I may have boiled the water out of the battery. I read online that sometimes an RV's charger can take batteries to 13.4 volts which will do this to a battery. Is that bunk? Or should I not charge my coach (and engine) battery by plugging my rv into 110? Again, Thanks for any help. Bassnwhaler
  13. Well, the list of needed repairs continues to mount—arghh... when will I be able to start actually using this RV again?! So, yesterday, I discovered that my Walmart Group 29 Marine Battery is registering <4.0 volts; I'm pretty much considering that thing toast... I can't imagine it would charge up again at this point (?). It is two years old, on the dot, and has been consistently abused, I assume, by the original Magnatek 6300 system in my Warrior. I have ordered a new Powermax converter/charger to upgrade my system, which I hope will increase the longevity of my replacement coach battery. My Question: Anyone found a good deal lately on a deep cycle battery that they'd like to recommend? Wally-World still the best bet for a sub-$200 replacement?
  14. This is an issue which makes no sense to me. One trip across town, and my auto battery is drained to 25%. Now, you would think that I just have an electrical issue under the hood, but... once I am parked and plugged in to electricity, and the battery is charged back up on the charger, by the end of the day, it seems that the AC has drained the battery, and so I charge it overnight with the same result. I have tried this several times. It's brand new, so it's not a bad battery. And I had the same issue with the battery I replaced. I do have a solar panel which runs just the interior lights, but I have tried to run my little house both with the converter off, and with it on. Same result. And even if I were to power everything down and see if the battery discharges... that's not possible, is it? I mean, if nothing is running, the battery should not drain, right? It should also be said that I have a 4000 watt generator on the back which powers the AC as we roll. I'm scratching my head over this. I'm gearing up for a trip across country, and I can't afford to be breaking down. I want everything in working order before we leave. Any ideas?
  15. Hello! I recently purchased a 21' 1986 Toyota Crossman, which my partner and I dubbed "Little Buddy." Little Buddy has treated us well thus far but unlike the other RV I have owned (a Four Winds Hurricane) the coach power does not work unless plugged into shore power via the pigtail. A post made to this forum by Jake_Womack earlier this year described a similar issue, which other forum readers suggested was caused by a malfunctioning relay or switch. Could that be the culprit in my case as well? Do I need a new switching supply? The Power Inverter in Little Buddy is: Series: 6300 A Model: 6336 My knowledge with electrical systems is slight, so your input is most welcomed. Thanks in advance! And in case it impacts the responses to the above issue, we also plan to: - add a generator (Honda - it'll fit well in the vented external storage area behind the drivers seat) - swap out the current coach battery with an AGM (Optima) - add an inverter
  16. I have a 81' Mini Cruiser that was born with a diesel and at some point in its life grew a 20r. When the transplant took place it was in a rather "creative" fashion. My ignition switch, or so I believe it is, is running my carb, fuel pump, distributor cap, and alternator. All of them are wired into this one little wire. There are plenty of other wires here in this harness but I have no idea what they are or where to get a new harness. Any advise is welcome.
  17. ISO - wiring information for the clearance lights. Only ones that work are the two in back off of the back lights down low on left and right. I know they seem to be in parallel linked from the readings....but where is the power source so I can check the beginning and go from there. Thanks for your help.
  18. I have a 87 Odyessy and having problems with the electrical in the coach. I replaced the the battery in the back with a deep cycle batt but I'm only getting power when the ignition is on. I thought that the battery isolator was supposed to limit the draw from the truck power, no? Is there a switch or something that I'm missing? Does anyone have a wiring diagram? Thanks
  19. I am the proud but nearly defeated owner of a 1983 mini cruiser that was gifted to me by a dear friend. I live in it full time but it has a laundry list of issues and I can't even figure out where to start. Both tanks are cracked and leaking. The black tank ranks as hopeless. The water heater disintegrated. The cabover leaks like a sieve and is rotted through and through. The A/C drips water constantly when it runs. I don't even know if the (scary-looking) furnace or the stove work because we never got to pressure test the LP system. The repair guy who gave it a going over just shook his head and told me it would be best to wait until some of the other difficulties were tackled. Crazy as it seems, I love this thing even though I think it's trying to kill me. I have read through numerous posts here and am awed by your collective knowledge and mad repair skills. My budget says I can't pay someone to make magic happen and my pride says I can do it myself. But my voice of reason says I need help since I have no indoor work area and limited tools available. I have searched all kinds of places to find replacement tanks. There are none that match the dimensions on the original tanks. Is there a commonly used alternative? What size water heater do I need? I am inclined to think a Suburban or Atwood 6 gallon tank is appropriate but I have not had time to measure thoroughly. Do I need to replace the door to match the water heater brand or will the one that is there do the job? The electrical system is confounding to me in all kinds of ways. There are two sets of outlets - one black framed that only work with shore power, one set ivory framed that run from the battery. I set off the inverter (1800W, I believe but I'm not in front of it right now) immediately if I plug anything in that isn't a laptop charger, more or less. It's really frustrating. I have one coach battery that I replaced when I got the Eaglet last year. The one that was in it was cooking right under where I was sleeping. That was fun, too ;-) Where would you start with everything that needs to be done?
  20. 1985 Escaper w/Flr plan 2101....There is a switch located just inside the entrance mounted on the side of cabinet and lights up when acitvated . Cant fiqure out what it connected to. help
  21. had a question but figured it out... couldn't figure out how to delete this post.
  22. I have a 1988 Dolphin with 2.4 4 cycl.. I live in Denver co. Area therefore the O/D doesn't work. What is the best way to bypass this? Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks Clay
  23. Hi i just bought a 1977/78 Toyota Fourwind RV, and everything works inside the RV and the only problem i am having is the top running lights dont work. i have tested the bulbs and they all work. i try to just ground one of the lights and they dont work put jsut 12v from batt and that doesnt work but if i get a 12v battery and hook up + and - to bulb it comes on. HELP PLEASE or suggestions. TY
  24. I just got a 1981 Toyota Dolphin today and I wanted to know if the lights only work on shore power? I think I found the break box under the sink area? If it does only work on shore power how could I setup my own battery bank to be off-grid for longer periods of time? How do you start the refrigerator and the heater using gas? I would ask the previous owner but he wanted it gone that day b/c he was moving and sold it pennies on the dollar but signed the title over and he had to finish packing so I'm stuck here brand new to the whole r.v. idea and clueless like a hog in a corn farm lol so please help I want to hit the ground running so I can take my family camping soon lol
  25. Hello, We are the proud owners of a 1985 Sunrader with 54K on it. It is a great running vehicle with one exception. It will not start if it is not up to a full charge. If it has been sitting for a while and the battery only has 12.5 volts in it, then it just "clicks" when you turn the key. Sometimes if you hold the key in the start postion for 5 or 10 seconds, the starter will go, and turns over very quickly. Most vehicles, if the battery is down a bit, will crank slowly. This one just doesn't go. I have replaced the engine battery, and that seemed to help for a while, but it is back to its old tricks. Could it be something in the starter or ignition switch? Once started, the alternator show 14 volts, so I know it is charging OK, and once It has started for the day, it seems to be OK for the rest of the day. Any advice you can give me would be greatly appreciated. Camping season is upon us!!!
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