mattrblack50@gmail.com

Thanks for the info. When I bought my 92 warrior I had roof / ceiling damage from the air conditioner that had been removed previously. I reframed it from the inside and coated the roof and this seemed to work well. I reinforced the area where the AC was and put in a max fan. There was only a small delamination spot but it seems to be growing in random locations. I may need to re open the sides and put some epoxy in there with a kit or something. Make a brace to squeeze and hold it. The floor is soft in some locations from being wet at some point. I'm working on that from the underside and reinforcing it with wood and angle iron.

Anyone have a success story that they'd like to share on delamination? Mine is getting worse.

Thanks Linda. I'll have to take a closer look

Are you referring to the radiator cooler or another external cooler. I will have to take a closer look but I don't recall seeing anything special there.

Any suggestion on a transmission cooler for the 3VZE setup? Curious to what others are using and what sizes will fit? Pictures would be great too.

Looks good. I too have the 3.0 3VZE engine. When I did a head rebuild I removed some exhaust restrictions. It breathes much better. Exhaust dumps out right behind the cab. Engine seems to run cooler too. Wish I had changed my injectors also.

I'm interested in your exhaust set up. Could you post some pictures possibly?

Hello everyone dreaming of spring and traveling in the RV again. I've been thinking about removing the sofa and replacing with some bunk beds possibly. I know they'll be too short for adults but could work for a few years with the kids. Has anyone seen or done this before? I searched but didn't find very much. 92' warrior

Hello all. Hope you have enjoyed your RVs this summer. Since moving back to west Michigan from Kansas I've been able to use it a lot more and take the kids to see all kinds of things. Our fridge is working great but it's been really hard to see the flame when it's lit through the sight glass. I've cleaned both sides of the plastic, but still can barely see anything when the fridge is running on propane. Any suggestions?

Reviving an old thread. Starting circuit was the issue. As Steeve mentioned once I installed a $5 relay between the battery and starter solenoid the issue was resolved. If you are having issues like mine start there first.

I've looked everywhere but can't find the torque value of these bolts on the wheel spacers. Anyone know what it might be? 10mm fine thread grade 10 I believe.

Thanks Linda.

Has anyone had any experience with any of the suspension kits available on Amazon or ebay? They have all 4 ball joints, idler arm, center link and tie rod ends. I need to replace all these items and yes I normally would get them individually but this has all of them. Just curious about quality? https://www.amazon.com/Garage-Pro-Passenger-Suspension-Compatible-1989-1994/dp/B0B17R741C/ref=sr_1_8?keywords=4333039295+suspension+kit&qid=1657398062&sr=8-8&ufe=app_do%3Aamzn1.fos.006c50ae-5d4c-4777-9bc0-4513d670b6bc

Its definitely an ignition issue. Probably was all along because the contacts in the solinoid weren't that burned up. Just need to find the time to make the repair.

I rebuilt the stater and bench tested it before reinstall. It's a grounding or weak solinoid issue.

Got the RV out of the cave where I store it today. Started up no issues but later had the same issue of not wanting to start. I cleaned up my grounds really good from firewall to engine, battery to frame and it seems to be working normally again. The cave has a lot of humidity and I have gone through before and coated what I could with dielectric grease. I may also run a ground directly to the starter tomorrow.

Thanks everyone. Going to try a ground cable direct to the starter and then a relay if needed.

Probably not as well as I should have.

Was having issues with my starter so I rebuilt it. New contacts and all. Bench tested it and works great. Reinstalled and now will not work consistently. Thought the battery was weak so I bought a new one, from 2016. Same issue. It starts right up with a jump pack? Thinking it's got to be a ground or something similar but wanted to see if others had the same issue. Toyota V6 3.0l 3VZE

I didn't use any adhesive. The bottom layer of the floor, which is underneath the RV is a thin layer of aluminum. Once I put the wood in place I had to wedge the crossbeams in place. They were a tight fit and probably would have stayed in place without welding.

We like to listen to the radio when camping and inside the RV. Using a SPDT switch allows you to turn on the radio when the ignition is off and key removed. You can also leave the radio so that it only turns on with the ignition (normal operation).

1991 Warrior. One of the previous owners had water damage from the overhead AC area leaking all over the place. I repaired the roof and ceiling but the floor was still soft. When you actually look at the flooring there isn't really much there other than a very thin layer of aluminum on the bottom and plywood on top of it. Not sure of the plywood thickness? The issue with repairs is that the camper is assembled in stages at the factory and it's a challenge to tear out sections of a 4x8 sheet or larger underlayment, mine still has carpeting. I decided to repair from below by strengthening using 3/4" plywood coated with oil based kilz and 3/4" square steel tubing welded to the frame. The difference was noticable right away, so far so good.

I installed a simple one like this and it has worked for me so far. If I used my RV more often I'd probably get something with Bluetooth. I determine battery charge state and condition based on voltage. I don't have any real power drains going other than a fantastic fan. https://www.ebay.com/itm/Dual-USB-Car-Cigarette-Lighter-Socket-Splitter-Power-Adapter-Charger-Outlet-12V-/132225301652?_trksid=p2349624.m46890.l49286

I've been using a smart charger to keep my house battery charged up and it works well. I disconnected the old outdated system because it would both overcharge deep cycle batteries as well as mess up all of the led lighting I've installed. It's a NOCO 3.5 A and it came with a pigtail that I could install right to the power distribution block. I take it out for other batteries when not in use. Works well.

I just received the aluminum stacker jacks tonight from Amazon. They are super lightweight and small enough to fit underneath the RV sofa. Perfect for what I'll be using them for. Now onto the next project of floor reinforcement and installing poly bushings in the rear leaf springs.