redskinman

That reminds me of something I forgot to mention. The recharge kit comes with a fitting to screw on the valve for the R12 systems so the fitting is the same as 134 and the gauge just pushes on the connection. Well mine had The new style connector on it already which makes me wonder maybe it's been converted already ?

So last time I drove the rig I didnt think my dash air wasnt blowing as cold so I bought this recharge system off ebay:http://www.ebay.com/itm/R12-COMPATIBLE-A-C-REFRIGERANT-MAXI-FRIG-12a-1994-OLDER-RECHARGE-REFILL-KIT-/122508929925?hash=item1c8619eb85:m:mvV-5TTd_xAnuXOWR7MTZtg Pretty sure someone on here recommended it and it's got 100% positive feedback.So I went and picked up rig yesterday morning,temp was probably around 85-86,was driving it home and I thought dash feels like its blowing cold pretty good and digital temp gauge shows its between 53-68 degrees.So I get it home and hook up the gauge that came with kit,and it shows over 25 on the gauge,and instructions say dont add any refrigerant if your gauge reads over that.So now I'm thinking maybe its working fine but this old A/C just cant keep up with this over 95 degree 100% humidity texas heat.But I still havent ruled out the a/c compressor as being the cause of my overheating problem,and I dont know how you can rule it out besides replacing it and seeing if that fixes the problem. So I have an A/C recharge kit I will make someone a good deal on if they need it. On to the second thing I did to try and figure this overheating issue.I bought some dye to pour in radiator along with some special glasses and light to detect any leaks,specifically I wanted to see if water pump was leaking.I thought I might be losing a small amount of fluid,radiator level has been remaining the same but reservoir looks like it was losing some.So with waterpump buried behind timing belt cover I didnt know if I would be able to detect anything anyway unless it was leaking a lot.Well if it is leaking somewhere I could not find it,crawled under engine and could not find it leaking anywhere. Can waterpump be bad but not leak? I mean if it's leaking you know its bad,but maybe it can be bad and not leak,its just not pumpimg enough,I dont know.

I'm sorry I do not

It doesnt sound any louder then the built in Kohler that came with my toyhome,except right at the very end when you turned microwave on it started to get real loud but then video cut off

Well from the way this story started out I thought it was going to end up worse,still not good but it could have been worse,good luck with your recovery

I have no ideal why its putting that axle video, that not the one I pasted and its not letting me change it.

I had the code 25 also, but I had a misfire which turned out to be one of my fuel injs. After replacing injs no more code, whether that would help you is a crapshoot. Before I diagnosed the fuel injs I was wondering if my PCV valve was bad, I could not get to mine either, seems impossible to get in there. For the 2 hrs you spent doing yours I think you could have removed the plenum and changed out the grommet also, that's what I did when I replaced injs. It was my first time ever to take a plenum off, a lot of the hoses I left hooked up and I hooked the plenum up to some bungee cords to hold it in the air out of the way. I believe I watched this youtube video to help me.

They are the same.

Yeah i had same problem. Looks like you just bypassed the drain valves. Looks like I never updated my thread. I had exact same setup as yours but bought replacement valves also {very similar to Darrel's in my thread} and installed them where old ones were. Also, that hose was very hard to get over fittings, a trick I learned was to heat the end of the hose up a little bit with a lighter to soften them up and they slid on a whole lot easier.

Did you get that car for free too?

Following

True,very true.I wish I could find the thread again,the guy that posted that said he had done exhaustive research on the subject,sounded like he had a lot of knowledge and so on but in the end who knows? I've found countless post of people saying nothing wrong with green and others saying don't use green

Well got new rad installed,spent last 2 nights after work trying to flush entire system,after 8 gallons of water was still didnt get to clear water,gave up and went ahead and put in the antifreeze.it had green antifreeze in it,was going to go back with toyota red but from the research I found once you put in the green you cant go back to red{cant find thread now},so ended up going with Peak antifreeze which was recommended on the Toyota forum{if your not using red}. After finishing with the flushing last night about 11,put in the antifreeze and let it idle in the driveway about 30 minutes{with heat on} and temp gauge stayed at the 1/4 mark.Took it for a 10 minute drive with A/C on and stopped at gas station to fill up and let it idle with A/C on while I got gas and temp gauge rose up to the 3/4 mark in that short of time.I shut A/C off and drove it home,temp gauge came back down.When I got home I let it idle in the driveway another 30 minutes with nothing on,no heat and no A/C and it stayed below the 1/2 mark,so this leads me to believe the overheating is related to having the A/C on but will have to drive it some more to confirm that. So if its just the A/C causing the hot temps,looks like that could be a number of things, from compressor getting old,burping the sytem,{which i think I did a good job of already,}radiator or thermostat{which have just been replaced}or water pump going out.The dash air is working but it doesnt seem like its blowing as cold as it once was so maybe its the compressor causing the engine to work harder,who knows.

Well pulled radiator today,deciding to go ahead and replace it.Removed the fan while I was at it to give me more room to work on bolt that wont come out and long story short got bolt out.Cleaned up hole with same size tap and found another double threaded bolt at Ace Hardware that was same size but not quite as long but still enough room to screw nut on.It went in and tightened up with no problems so I'm good to go now

Thanks Linda, appreciate you looking. Returned that other one, yep it was for 4wd. Decided to order another one local and pick it up tomorrow for a couple reasons. For one, RV is blocking garage and cant move it till its fixed, which is also gonna piss off the home owners assoc. who have been on my behind about parking it there. I figure if I ordered from rock auto it wont be here till Monday, and then if its the wrong one or damaged that delays it further, cant have that.

Was afraid i would order wrong one over internet so Advanced Auto had one in stock that was supposed to fit so went and got it but it was too long.Does anyone know which one I should order from Rock Auto? The core looks like it measures 20 3/4"x17 3/4" with overall dimensions 21 3/4"x21 3/4 " And just to clarify,I'm looking up parts for 91 dlx pickup with v-6. You can see how much longer new one is,this is one I ordered https://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/carquest-radiator-432272/3894134-P?krypto=7ApMz518LgBFXL0H60ZifJAm84J1ic3cOw5VpjcRjzaokZcFhxke5X3v9brZ2K8PUUJv5bIcn5GxZpnrbVfKvdnoatB4LO0u5ou%2BeRDj8FlaFGBYSaKIEVMWdprBrTumBv642wefw4UEa2cCxZ8Kti2FM8mpX9ACSpwottumfAFg0EEcLtb%2BTKGXJLpHwNzp

Well I've taken radiator off because it was leaking from working on it from another project,and I see it's got some damaged fins in one spot that are smashed in,I'm sure that is not helping the cooling capabilities.Since its leaking anyway,anyone got recommendations for new one? Rock Auto?

lol,I wasnt picking on him,I even made a joke he was using canadian math and it didnt go over well. I was going to bring up the fact the pickups didnt get that good but I decided to just leave it alone

Well saw this listed on Craigslist for 3500,post deleted now so must have sold.I wanted to buy it{within 50 miles of me},wife said no way,already got one in the driveway cant figure out whats wrong with it

Theres someone on the Facebook group,and it seems like he's posted here with his logbooks,that he's averages on some of his trips 30mpg{4 cyl,not a chinook}and is pretty much always over 20 mpg,posted pics of his logs,Find it very very hard to believe but he did not appreciate me questioning those numbers

Excellent project,looking forward to see if it helps.I bought a small fan from Walmart and stuck it in there and it didnt help me unfortunately

Well I hope your right.Stopped by Harbor Freight this morning and bought some aluminum welding sticks,gonna see if I can fix the radiator instead of buying another one.Never pulled radiator before or used these sticks,we'll see how it goes

Well tried putting washers over it and I cant get it out.Ended up leaving some washers on there and just putting 2 nuts on threads and tightened it up best I could.Put everything back together and now I think radiator is broke.I wanted to replace radiator shroud also so I needed to remove top rad hose.When twisting it off looks like pipe coming out of radiator that top hose attaches to is leaking,and I dont know if that can be fixed without replacing it? And to top it off I think my overheating problem might be head gasket,just not a fully blown one because it's not showing the usual signs.The reason I'm thinking this is because of what I'm finding in the coolant when I drain it,finding lots of black specks and a few slivers of some black material

i think the bolt is 8 x1.25 The JB weld thing was something I thought about also thanks