hunkaman

thanks for the info linda. makes me wonder how many sunrader made and for how many years. they must be rare. i think it is one of the coolest thing i've seen on the forum. i love this forum, you never know what may pop up. thanks again linda. joe from dover

forgive my ignorance, is the truck a custom built, or could you buy it from a dealer like that? it is totally awesome.

welcome, nice and clean looking rig. there will be lots of help and advice for you here. enjoy and please post pics, i really appreciate having a view of other owners rigs. again welcome. joe from dover.

welcome and congratz. with starting out at free, any money spent should be acceptable to get her in shape. there are people here with knowledge and solid advice on just about any issue. please keep us all posted especially with pics. i love to see what others are doing or have done to their rigs. welcome again and good luck. joe from dover

thanks allen, my friend had advised me on that issue. when i tried it the other night i only used the 750 watt setting. it really did perform well. thanks for your concern and input. joe from dover

thanks for all the input, since the roof top air is working fine, i really don't feel the need to replace it with a unit that has a heating element . the advice you have given about buying a small heater to accomplish the same thing seems to be the way to go. my friend suggested the same thing. he has a 1986 winnie, and bought a small ceramic heater that has two settings , 750 watts and 1500 watts with a fan only feature as well. he only spent $20.00, and said it really works well. i bought the same heater and tried it out the other night and it worked great. situation solved! not having much experience with motorhomes , it is such a blessing to have all of you out there to guide and direct with your vast knowledge and suggestions. thanks again. joe from dover

can anyone provide info regarding adding an optional heating element to a Coleman Mini Mach model #6727-739 roof top a/c unit ? i have the original instruction paper work, it says this model is a 7000 btu unit and speaks of an optional "ELECT-A-HEAT" element. it goes on to say this is not a substitute for a furnace, but used to just "take the chill off", i would consider adding it assuming it is effective and not too expensive, and available. any help, and/or advice would be appreciated. thanks joe from dover.

hey there redskinman, there is current discussion on the forum regarding the v6 head gasket recall situation. you may want to look into that. it may be helpful for you.

hi to all, just to update, i looked up the dealership name i was given located in upstate new york on line. and clicked on their contact section, i emailed them requesting verification and asking if they could possibly provide documentation as to the date and mileage at the time of the had gasket replacement. they emailed me back notification that they received my request and would contact me . that is where i am at now. joe from dover

HI TO ALL, I DECIDED TO CONTACT TOYOTA AT 1-800-331-4331. WAS PROMPTED TO A RECALL INFORMATION REPRESENTATIVE. THE SHORT VERSION, I PROVIDED MY VIN. THE LADY FOUND THAT MY RIG HAD THE HEAD GASKET REPLACED IN 1998 AT A DEALERSHIP IN NEW YORK STATE. SHE PROVIDED ME WITH THE NAME OF THE DEALERSHIP AND WHAT CITY IT WAS LOCATED. THE LADY STATED THAT TOYOTA'S VIN DATABASE CAN VERIFY IF THE REPLACEMENT WAS PERFORMED OR NOT, BUT HAD NO INFO REGARDING IF THE PROGRAM IS STILL IN FORCE. I NOW AT LEAST KNOW THAT MY RIG HAD THE WORK DONE. I WILL HAVE TO CHECK MY CAR FAX AND TRY TO DETERMINE WHAT THE MILEAGE WAS AT THE TIME OF THE REPLACEMENT. NOT SURE IF THIS HELPS OTHERS, BUT THOUGHT I WOULD SHARE. JOE FROM DOVER

HI TO ALL, THIS HEAD GASKET RECALL INTERESTS ME, AS I HAVE A 1992 WITH 53K MILES, I SUBMITTED MY VIN TO TOYOTA VIA INTERNET SITE, RESPONSE FROM TOYOTA WAS NO RECALL FOR MY VIN, MY QUESTION, DOES ANYONE KNOW OF A TOYOTA DATA BASE THAT WOULD PROVIDE A DEFINITIVE YES OR NO IN REGARDS TO THE HEAD GASKET REPLACEMENT BEING PERFORMED ON A SUBMITTED VIN ? OR IS THERE A PHONE NUMBER FOR TOYOTA THAT ONE COULD ASK THE QUESTION AND GET A DEFINITIVE ANSWER ? ALSO, HAS ANYONE HAD THE HEAD GASKET REPLACED RECENTLY AT NO COST ?, AND IF SO COULD YOU PROVIDE THE NAME AND LOCATION OF THE DEALERSHIP THAT PERFORMED THE WORK ? APPEARS TO BE SPECULATION AS TO IF THIS RECALL/REPLACEMENT IS CURRENT OR DISCONTINUED. ANYONE KNOW FOR SURE ? THANKS . JOE FROM DOVER

hey there redskinman, testing with a moisture meter is a great idea. another area to check is the running lights. i have read on this forum a few times of owners finding that water had seeped in from the running lights not being sealed well. good luck joe from dover

hey there redskinman, water damage is an obvious concern, often damage is not visually apparent. i would suggest trying to find a rig that has low miles or has been well maintained with service documentation, etc. , but in my opinion, you can only verify so so much about the condition as pertaining to water damage. you will know it if you see it, but if you don't see it, does not mean there isn't some. i could only suggest the things you have already mentioned as warning signs. maybe closely inspect windows for the condition of caulking, or look at the roof seams or overall condition of roof and how vents and other roof projections appear. not sure if my 2 cents helps, but wish you well with your search. joe from dover

WANTED TO SHARE THIS LITTLE PROJECT. I DECIDED TO INSTALL A FUEL COVER LOCKING HATCH ON MY 92 WARRIOR. I FOUND A HATCH COVER ON LINE THAT WAS NOT TOO BIG, BUT BIG ENOUGH. THE CHALLENGE WAS THAT THE METAL RETAINING PLATE OR COLLAR THAT HOLDS THE FILLER TUBE IN PLACE WITH SCREWS IN THE CABIN BODY IS OVAL OR ELONGATED. MOST OF THE HATCH COVERS I FOUND ONLINE WERE MORE SQUARE THAN RECTANGULAR. I FABRICATED A SPACER FROM 1/4" THICK PLASTIC AND CUT A HOLE IN IT TO MATCH THE SHAPE OF THE FILLER RETAINING PLATE AND LEFT ENOUGH OF THE PLASTIC MATERIAL ON ALL SIDES TO ACCOMMODATE THE OUTSIDE DIMENSIONS OF THE HATCH COVER. NOT WISHING TO ADD ANY MORE HOLES IN MY WINNIE, I MOUNTED THE SPACER TO THE COACH BODY WITH A 3M INDUSTRIAL STRENGTH DOUBLE SIDED TAPE THAT IS EXTREMELY THIN, THEN USED THREADED INSERTS TO MOUNT THE HATCH COVER TO THE SPACER. I FOUND SOME EPOXY SPRAY PAINT THAT CLOSELY MATCHED THE COACH AND PAINTED THE SPACER BEFORE MOUNTING.TO FINISH UP I CAULKED THE SPACER TO THE BODY . I WORKS WELL AND I THINK IT DRESSED UP THE OVERALL LOOK AND AFFORDS A LITTLE PROTECTION WITH IT HAVING A LOCK NOW. I DID NOT THINK TO TAKE ANY PICS OF THE "BEFORE" MY BAD. OVER ALL COST WAS ABOUT $50.00 WITH THE HATCH COVER BEING $40.00 WITH SHIPPING. JOE FROM DOVER

hi and welcome to wonderful world of toya;'s i really have nothing to offer on your model number question. as far as the anti freeze/winterizing issue : admittedly, i am not a long time motorhome owner, ( just over a year ), but everyone i have met all speak of using rv anti freeze in the rigs. i can't imagine NOT using it as far north as maine and new york, i am sure some one at the forum may weigh in on your question with more info and good advice than i have offered. any way, good luck and enjoy. joe from dover

my insurance covered the cost with no deductable, the cost was about 5 thousand. the shop really did a top notch job, although it took many months to complete. the entire roof was removed and started from scratch with new foam insulation, an rv luan skin and a seamless rubber roof membrane. they also upgraded with the roof gutter channels. of course the interior ceiling was replaced as well. they had to remove all the ceiling mounted cabinets and replace after the new ceiling panels were installed. i chose to eliminate the front vent and the crank up tv antenna, but a new power rear bathroom vent was installed as well as a new vent cover over the fridge area and a new bathroom stack vent. the rubber roof material has a 12 year warranty. the re-arching of the metal cross members really eliminates water pooling on the roof. it took all summer , but i am more than pleased with the finished job. i know i should not have a leakage problem for a very long time with proper maintenance .

hey there Derek, front vent was eliminated by choice, as well as the tv antenna post, i am not a TV person so the crank up post was eliminated, the repair shop re-arched the metal roof cross braces and added the rain gutter, the roof now will actually shed the water as originally designed.

my rig is a 1992 winnie warrior, with 53k , v6 auto. finally it is back home. it spent all summer getting a complete new roof due to a hail storm in may. i have it back just in time to store it for the winter. i missed the whole season here in ohio, but on the upside i have a new roof and interior ceiling, it looks good and the roof has a 12 year warranty.

hey there gypsycloud: those pics really show the damage. you have a great advantage by being in the remodeling business. you no doubt have the knowledge,skill set, and tools to do the rebuild. i am a retired carpenter/cabinet maker so i am sure you have the confidence needed to take this project on. remember there is a lot of help available at this site, and hopefully you can keep us all informed as you go with pics. good luck , i am sure it will turn out great. and by the way, what area of the buckeye state are you from? curious as i live about 30 minutes south of canton. joe from dover

hi there, your rig does not look horrible from your pics, although there is no pic of the rot in the walls that you spoke of. i must agree with 86rader, that if your walls are as bad as you stated i would certainly be suspect of the roof framing as well. any project can be accomplished with determination, time and money. there are probably several people here on this site that may have encountered your situation and have some advice or instructions for you. the people here are great with being very, very helpful. maybe if you posted some pics of the damage, it may help in offering specific suggestions for you. by all means good luck and i hope all goes well. joe from dover

I recall a piece of wisdom from my youth, which as i grew older it remains true, " LOCKS ONLY KEEP HONEST PEOPLE HONEST."

LOL. Linda S. well said. also. you should never have trouble remembering where you parked.

i agree that from a selling perspective, the unit is only worth what some one is willing to pay. that goes for about anything. other areas of concern for the value, of your rig I.E. insurance is a whole different ball game. as an example my 92 winnie warrior is in very good condition, 53 thousand miles, all the bells and whistles, except the on board generator. tilt,air,cruise, auto, everything works in the coach and the cab, newer tires, outdoor shower, no rust, had my mechanic go over every inch, and after his inspection, had no negatives with the exception of replacing the air filter. the inside is in excellent condition with regards to the upholstery, wall , mini blinds, etc. now the rub, my insurance company wanted to total the vehicle, because of a covered insurance claim to replace the roof, which was a 5k estimate. in my situation i placed the insurance value at my purchase price of the unit. had i bought an insurance policy at about twice my purchase price i would not have had to fight the prospect of the insurance company totaling the rig over my claim. these rigs are so old and in a sense are like classic cars to many insurance companies. i was informed by my insurance agent(same agent for 32 years), that you should purchase an amount of insurance that you feel your rig is worth, in case of a situation that may result in your rig being deemed totaled by the insurance company. despite what their expensive marketing and advertising says, insurance companies are not your friends. joe from dover

hi there, i know where there is a 1974 or 1976 toyota motorhome that looks very similar to yours and the coach name is EZ RIDER, the rear wheel configuration is the same on the one where i live. also the hub caps are identical to the one here, don't know if that means much ?? i am sure someone here at the forum will identify this for you. people here are extremely helpful and have a vast pool of knowledge about anything and everything connected with our toyota motor home passion. you may be able to get some more info if you can locate the vin ??? just from the photos it looks in pretty good shape, well, good luck and welcome to the toya world, nice to have you. : )

hi there, i agree with bicoastaleric- it does appear to be a spray on product by looking at the bottom of the vent-you can see what appears to be over spray. at any rate - take real good care of your roof. i have discovered that i could have replaced my 1992 v-6 motor in my winnie for less than my new roof cost. unless you are going to tackle a new roof yourself, plan on it costing 4 to 6 grand, i got 3 estimates from local rv shops and they were all within a few dollars of each other, and the shops all said they won't even start a total re roof until the winter months, the summer season is just to busy for them to dedicate the time involved to do a major roof repair in the summer. if i may add some more advice in my opinion, DO NOT use any product on your roof that is not an rv roof product. if you need to do roof issues do it right and use the proper materials. i do wish you well and hope yours is easily repairable. joe from dover