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Ctgriffi

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Everything posted by Ctgriffi

  1. Ctgriffi
    That is what I am saying, yes. Two pins in the socket for double filament and one pin for single filament bulbs. The driver side and passenger side units should be mirror images but are not. Everything looks stock and untampered.
  2. Ctgriffi
    Troubleshooting some intermittent bulb issues on the original old, triple-lens tail lights on the Warrior (Bargman 30-84-013). Photo attached is not my rig, but has same tail lights. Sockets don't make great contact anymore and while I was working on that problem, I noticed that the Bargman units are not symmetrical in terms of their socket types. What I mean by that is, driver's side sockets are double filament || single filament || single filament BUT the passenger's side sockets are single filament || double filament || double filament It seems like the passenger side center light (amber turn signal) should be a single filament socket like the driver's side... but it is definitely not. Anybody have any insight on this? I sleep better when things make sense.
  3. Ctgriffi
    Appreciate the advice. We're allowing a lot of time to get there, and ambient temp should be in the high 50s, which I'm hoping will ease the strain on the drivetrain. Based on this elevation info (a great link that someone recently posted on the forum), it is clearly a long uphill climb from Cheney, KS to Santa Fe, but the steepest angle on that whole trip is just under 3º.
  4. Ctgriffi
    Planning a soon-to-be trip to Santa Fe and Albuquerque, and I thought I'd post up my potential route, see if anybody has any pointers or warnings (and, thank you!). Basically, we'll be heading out of southern Missouri on I44, stopping just west of Wichita in Cheney, and then heading across Kansas on a number of different state roads, probably camping again in the northwest corner of Oklahoma. Once we get down into New Mexico, we'll jump on I25 and make our way down into Santa Fe. The goals are: avoid tollroads, do some big-and-small highway travel, enjoy a route that we haven't tried before.
  5. Ctgriffi
    I started this thread awhile back but haven't had the time or inclination ('cause it's dang cold/winter!) to pursue the solution further. Today, while mulling it over further, I had this simple thought: could this just be a front wheel bearing going bad? We're planning a trip to NM in ~6 weeks, so I need to get back on this, sooner than later. Probably a good idea to pull/inspect the bearings and races, either way.
  6. Ctgriffi
    Not answering a specific question, just noting that replacing original shocks should net you a serious improvement in ride quality. Also, rear shock replacement is pretty easy on these! Bilstein or KYB will do a great job.
  7. Ctgriffi
    Just a friendly tip on the vacuum caps... I did something similar to block off a line or two on my 91 V6 intake. The caps I used were from Dorman, and they all literally went to pieces inside of a year. Worst quality rubber (vinyl?) I've ever seen. Hopefully yours last longer but might want to keep an eye on 'em.
  8. Ctgriffi
    Yeah, I know exactly what you’re talking about on the down curve of your cabover area. I spent a lot of time in and around all that when I did my rebuild up front. Here are your best two options for sealing the curve, in my opinion: Dicor Lap Sealant (non-leveling) or OSI Quad caulk. I’ve used both and they’re similar: heavy duty, durable stuff and somewhat difficult to tool (tool, meaning “shape or smooth to prevent major ugliness”). Cleanup both with solvent only. OSI Quad comes in beige too and is half the price of Dicor: https://m.lowes.com/pd/OSI-QUAD-QUAD-12-Pack-10-oz-Beige-Paintable-Advanced-Sealant-Caulk/3664442
  9. Ctgriffi
    My 91 Warrior has the same issue, behind the toilet on the rear floor. Basically, the back wall on these seems to migrate south, millimeter by millimeter, as time goes by. I've filled the gap with Great Stuff foam as a (literal) stop-gap measure. There's not much holding the back wall to the main structure on these, from what I can tell. Like Waydago, I'd love to hear about a better, more permanent, fix for this if anybody's messed with it!
  10. Ctgriffi
    My 91 Warrior has plastic-vinyl cab floor. Looks factory.
  11. Ctgriffi
    All of those links ^ have the same href so are going to the same URL... let's try this: http://toyotamotorhome.org/forums/index.php?/topic/9620-86-conquest-complete-rebuild/ http://toyotamotorhome.org/forums/index.php?/topic/10983-the-1990-toyota-odyssey-v6-4x4-that-we-call-the-comvee-warning-long-post-with-photos/ http://thesupercamper.blogspot.com
  12. Ctgriffi
    Good idea, thanks, and yeah I do have the light and 12V power up there... the only reason I haven’t tried something similar is because I’m not sure I could pull off the mod and have it look nice/clean. But, maybe I’ll give it a whirl one of these days.
  13. Ctgriffi
    Got up under there again to check the idler arm and tie rod ends. Not feeling any play or movement. Steering seems smooth and normal: on jack stands and on the ground. I greased a few more areas up front, on both sides—places that look like contact could be made in a sharp turn or when leaning. I think the noise is still there but will need to do more test driving.
  14. Ctgriffi
    Noise from blower is common, especially if you're in an area with lots of mice or squirrels. I need to pull my own blower again, thanks to what sounds like another acorn stashed away in there, dangit.
  15. Ctgriffi
    Yeah, did this on my Warrior last year and the city water unit was threaded onto a pvc fitting. Had to access that connection from inside, under a dinette bench, and use a couple crescent wrenches.
  16. Ctgriffi
    Unfortunately no, not a tight radius turn, etc. Just a basic turn at a standard intersection, especially when turning to go slightly uphill/downhill... I wish I could record the noise, maybe that would help. It is very noticeable but hard to describe: I've been saying, "clunk," but that's not really accurate. If I get really creative... I might say it sounds like a front wheel seized for half-a-second with a chunk of gravel trapped between that tire and the asphalt, while at the same time somebody gave the frame a pretty good tap with a ball-peen hammer.
  17. Ctgriffi
    So I did have one bad leaf spring bushing on the front eyelet, passenger side. Got that replaced last night in ~1-1/2 hrs, which wasn't too shabby for one guy, crawling around in a gravel driveway (if you've messed with these bushings much, you know what I'm talking about!). All rear bushings are Energy Suspension poly now. Back end does feel tighter, but I'm still getting an occasional ugly noise from the front: on slow turns, uneven pavement, etc. I'll put that on the list, thank you... Care to offer a few pointers on the best way to do that, Dan?
  18. Ctgriffi
    Welcome to the club. This is a very common situation, and there's lots of info out there, with many different approaches. Choosing your repair method will be a factor of time/money/tools/experience. Not saying this is "the right way to go!" or anything, but here's what I did, in this over-dramatically-titled thread:
  19. Ctgriffi
    Great ideas, thank you! Leaf spring bushings are in pretty good shape, Derek. I've replaced most of them over the last few years, with poly ones from Energy Suspension. There might be one or two left that are worth double-checking again though... will do! Yeah, doesn't only happen while turning, and I definitely checked those groan stoppers: they're in good, solid shape. (thanks, Linda)
  20. Ctgriffi
    Finally spent a good chunk of time trying to troubleshoot the weird noises we've been hearing on the road: Jacked up the front end, tugged/yanked on everything under there, checked for any unwanted movement in the ball joints, smoothness in the bearings, etc, etc. Also jacked up the rear end, crawled around and looked everything over, tightened up bolts, etc, etc. Still haven't been able to identify or correct the problem. Once again, here are the symptoms: driving on the highway or on most country roads, for hours at a time, everything will be fine and dandy. But, drive slowly around a corner, especially on uneven or tilted pavement (you know the kind; when the coach wants to roll), and you get an occasional, loud clunking/grating noise that is difficult to pinpoint. I feel like it's near me in the driver's seat, but wife thinks it might be coming from the back. Could this be body mounts? Sway bar bushings? Other ideas? It's a pretty severe sound, not something you'd want to ignore...
  21. Ctgriffi
    That same crossmember on my 91 is in a similar state, maybe not quite that bad. Looks like the part link that Linda posted at the beginning is exactly what you need, Frank. Price isn't too bad either, and you don't have to deal with dealers who 1) don't really have that much extra-special-knowledge and 2) tend to mark everything way up. I've ordered stuff from that site before, no problems. https://www.toyotapartsdeal.com/oem/toyota~crossmember~sub~assy~frame~front~51201-35160.html?Make=Toyota&Model=Pickup&Year=1990&Submodel=2+Wheel+Drive&Filter=(d=USA;1=3VZE;4=STD;7=RCB;8=WT;9=HLF;11=EFI;13=IV6;14=T1)&Location=frame,,51201A Another option might be to see if you, or someone local, could fabricate a replacement. There's not a whole lot to that part, from what I can remember and after seeing the drawing...
  22. Ctgriffi
    The added value of a good-looking, reliable product will be well worth the outlay, if you can find a way to swing it and then do a nice, tight install. I say, go for it!
  23. Ctgriffi
    Got to have one for long drives in the summer, far as I'm concerned; cab is fine with dash AC, but coach gets way too hot for passengers (2-and-4-legged).
  24. Ctgriffi
    Cool! That's helpful and much appreciated. I kind of agree with that, usually, and I do need to do more/better diagnosis of the problem. Still, when the vehicle is 27 years old, with rusty, worn, original parts, and I've got the wherewithal to do the work myself, I never feel bad about dropping $$$ on replacment parts. Always seems like forward progress, a win-win.
  25. Ctgriffi
    I don't think I'd wanna drive our rig without the air bags. But, if you're not drooping with your existing leaf setup, you might as well start with new rear shocks and see if that gets you where you want to be. Replacement isn't particularly difficult, and new shocks are usually a lot of bang for the buck, in terms of ride improvement (IF your current shocks are old/weak/worn-out, that is). Bilstein shocks are the gold standard; KYB Gas-A-Just are cheaper and pretty good too. Worn out bushings on the shackles and leafs also contribute to noise/harshness.
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