85Diesel

Almost the same, mine's the 7 foot version. Also no fridge and furnace, they were pulled to reduce weight.

A company called Fabco out of Hemet, CA. I'm guessing they're not around anymore.

I picked this up the other day to tide me over until I get my 4x4 Sunrader on the road (hopefully this summer). I never really thought much of cabovers before but now that I have one I'm pretty excited about it. Especially for working out of in the woods. It weighs about a thousand pounds but it doesn't seem to bog my truck down too much. The interior is in great shape, too.

Sounds like the lug nuts came loose and sheared off the studs. It also sounds like you need to upgrade to a full floating 6 lug rear axle and ditch those fake duallies.

It seems pretty reasonable to me that you could do it for $12 grand. You might be better off just converting a shorty 2WD Sunrader to 4WD by adding a front axle and 4WD tranny. My factory 4WD Sunrader has the same wheel base as the longbed and the extra-cabs of the same year, 1985. I think a 4Runner has a shorter wheelbase so it wouldn't work.

I'm really curious about that diesel chainsaw!

I did one gas to diesel swap using a 3L, I put it into an 87 4wd pickup. It's definitely newer tech than the 1L or early 2L-T's that were available in North America, mainly different in the cylinder head design. Can't really speak to its power potential though, as its only used as a farm truck and barely ever comes out of 1st or reverse.

I still think it's a half ton axle converted to a full floater. You can't see the protrusion because they used a spacer to adapt the half ton axle to the 5 lug dually rims. They just used a bearing cap instead of the manual 4wd freewheel hubs. That's definitely a 1KZ-T or TE and not a 3L. I can tell by the timing belt cover. It's the same engine I have in my truck. The 3L wasn't available until the late 80's as far as I know. Before that it was the 2L or 2L-T. The 1KZ came about in the mid-90's. HP was 125-130.

I need a new rear window for my 85 Sunrader, mine was smashed when I bought it. I tried yesterday to buy one online through the Atwood RV Window website, but their longest window is 60" and the opening in my Sunrader is 64 3/4". Does anyone know of another option? I still have the frame of my old window so I guess I could get a custom piece of glass cut, but what about any pre-made windows? Thanks

Do you have the full link to that truck? It looks like they swapped in the newer 3.0L 1KZ-T engine. I think that full floater might be a half-ton axle converted to a 1 ton with an aftermarket kit.

Here's the awning on my Sunrader. I'm thinking I'll really appreciate it when it's raining out and I can step outside without suiting up.

The only part of the fender that should have to be removed is the plastic mud shield above the tire. The back of the radio does involve more dash removal than the previous generation trucks. I guess $90 is reasonable if it includes parts but it's really a pretty easy job if you're at all mechanical. The trickiest part is knowing where all the screws and clips that hold the dash together are located.

I don't know if it would have helped in your situation, but deflating the tires so they balloon out is the way to drive in soft sand. It allows the tires to float on top of the sand instead of dig in.

Good to know. I was initially leaning towards metal but the wood laminate sounded like a good idea. I'll probably go with metal now.

Great work on the beams. I hope you saved that jig, I'd like to borrow it when I get around to making my beams. I wonder if it's the same curvature as the rear part of the camper? That's where I really need to add some support, but the cab-over needs it, too.

I think those helper springs are a bad idea. I've seen a spring pack break right at the spot where the helper springs bolt on, and that wasn't even on an RV. They unevenly stress the leaf springs. And in my experience they don't even help increase the spring arch that much.

I haven't noticed any difference in handling in the 4Runner, even at 70mph. And I had to remove the steering stabilizer to make room for the oilpan. It shouldn't be a problem in the Sunrader either, especially since it has the stiffer leaf spring suspension up front.

Yeah it was really tight. I just barely managed to fit the radiator in without cutting the core support. The main problem was the oilpan to tie rod clearance with the 4WD IFS setup. It will be roomier with the solid front axle on my Sunrader. I think the 2WD drive IFS allows more clearance in that department too.

My 85 4x4 Sunrader was originally a 22-REC.

Well I just got one more step closer, sort of. Today I finished up a Mercedes OM617 turbo-diesel swap in a 91 4Runner. It's the same swap I want to do on my Sunrader this summer. My goal is to have the Sunrader up and running before next winter. The engine bay will look something like this:

Thanks. No I didn't do a write-up, I guess I should have but there's others that can be found on web. When I do my Sunrader I'll try and do a better job documenting the steps.

Just finished this swap, it isn't in my Sunrader but it's a preview and test vehicle for what's to come this summer for my Toyhome. 83 Mercedes OM617 turbodiesel in 91 Toyota 4Runner:

Yeah I've seen the pics of the factory roof supports, but I haven't figured out how to get the right curvature in the steel or aluminum. I like the glue-lam idea. I'll try and find the West Systems booklet, I have a lot to learn about fiberglass as I've never done it.

That's an interesting idea, then there would also be something to easily screw cabinets, lights, etc. into. Are you picturing the laminate glassed into the roof or just epoxied right to the fiberglass? Have you seen those used as roof supports?