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Check on line about retrieving engine codes the control unit will store codes they are not real smart like the OBD 2 but it may help you out. They work by flashing the engine light in sequence then you refer to a look up table. If it came on as many times as you said, my guess it’s probably was an O2 sensor code but that will not make the engine quit. Good luck seems like they tried the usual stuff. On general principles I would change the fuel filter I would bet $5 that it never has been changed because it is a real pain to get to. That will make it quit and restart after awhile.

All of the Toyota motor homes had adjustable valve clearance. The 4 has a simple adjuster screw the 6 requires special tools and is a job best left to some one who knows what they are doing. The 6 has shims that are different sizes, they have to be measured and the proper size installed to achieve the proper clearance. Generally the shims and the valves ware equally and do not need to be adjusted during the life of the valve so if it is noisy there is generally some thing wrong. The 4 cyl. can be noisy and be corrected with a valve adjustment. I guess you are thinking of hydrolic lifters and additives so no it will not help either engine to use additives.

Good diagram Greg. There is merit to both types of isolators as Greg said the solid state one does a better job of charging the batteries both types work. The relay type does give you the benefit of connecting all of the batteries together this maybe a good thing if you are in the middle of no where with a weak one. When you turn your key on it closes the isolator relay and connects every thing together (that way you do not end up with a dead truck battery). This is the ford starter looking thing it’s not a starter relay it is continues duty if you replace it with a starter relay it will cook in short order. It is directly connected to the truck battery on one side and the coach batteries on the other. When the key is turned on the relay closes and power flows between all the batteries it’s about a simple as it gets and probably what all the Toyota motor homes were fitted with new.

If you live in a large enough city there probably is a mattress maker in town. I had two custom made for my MH in Portland Maine. They came out to about the same price as the MW ones.

It’s my understanding that the frame mount tanks are exempt there is a bleeder valve on mine that has to be opened in order to fill it, it won’t fill if it is closed. When it gets to the point of being full it does spit liquid out of the bleeder and it never shows completely full. It has the old style valve handle but no one has ever questioned it. It also has a fill port and does not fill through the valve port.

Any fuel from the truck engine will be in the range of about 35psi. little too much for the gen set by about 30 psi. The truck engine has to be running to continue to pump fuel it will only pump for a few sec. if you just turn the key on. The return line is just a dump back into the tank most do not even touch the fuel level. Motoyhomme is right it is a fuel line all to it's self just for the gen set.

Your local parts store should have them nothing special.

You know it may have nothing to do with the od maybe it was a good place to pick up power to run some thing else fog lights or some thing?

I own a 22RE automatic and yes there is not too much out there you are going to win a drag race with (maybe a loaded semi) but so what. It climbs hills and runs 65 all day (I go to Canada at least 3 times a year no problem) It is a great camper for 2 people, 3 adults in one becomes a crowd real fast can be done but you all better be good friends. It has all the stuff a big one has, shower, heat, a/c, hot water, cook stove just on a smaller scale. Mine has room to sleep 5 people (it’s the good friends ideal again) but consider a rainy weekend that will grow old fast some one will have to sit down before the other can pass. So if it’s you and a friend maybe a kid or two they are great fun just take your time and enjoy!

May also be a switch to turn the od on and off. Perhaps the switch on the gear selector gave up. Try the od button and see if it works if it doesn't try your lighted switch.

You need some fancy equipment to actually flush the trans any good transmission shop can help you out. There are other methods but as you say you are a bit clueless about automatics so I would recommend a transmission shop. As long as it works well and has low mileage a flush should be fine. It would be a good time to install an extra cooler some came with extra coolers it will look like a little radiator with some rubber lines hooked to it. Mine has one but I am going to install a larger one I think it is factory and it’s small, bigger the better. The cooler you can keep it the better off you will be all things being equal it will run some where around engine temp so try to avoid any thing in the 225-250 range.

Does it change any when you apply the brake? Try just touching the brake (with the engine running) or push it hard and see if it changes (you do not have to be moving) I’m thinking you may have a brake booster vacuum leak, that will give you a wicked squeal.

I agree with WME with only 38K it would be a good ideal to have the transmission flushed. It would also be a good time to use synthetic fluid. If you don’t have a cooler add one the bigger the better. Continue with fluid changes (flush) every 30K. Like WRE said the filter is just a screen it keeps the big stuff out of the works and that’s all that’s needed if you have a lot of metal the damage is all ready done and is time for an overhaul any way. They are plastic and the drill is just wash them and put it back in. If you add a temp gauge watch it, down shift if it gets hot. Motor homes are hard to push thru the air so the converters slip that heats the fluid and gives it that lovely brown color using a lower gear reduces the slip and cools them down. Those transmissions were pretty good units but it is being asked to do more then it bargained for so you need to give it a helping hand and it will serve you well.

That’s a tough call it can get expensive throwing money at a problem until it's fixed it’s probably time to get some one local to have a look at it for you. I had the same problem with mine when I bought it, part of the problem was related to shoddy work by some one and part due to the igniter board. Some times it worked fine and usually when I needed it most it didn’t. A replacement board (dinosaur boards are good ones) usually try 3 times to fire the heater before giving up as opposed to once for the original that’s a plus. Gaskets, dirt, sail, switch, weak fan, gas valves so many things have an effect. The bottom line is that fail safe stuff is there to keep you from launching your motor home over into the neighbor’s yard and they all have to be just right.

I maybe all wrong on this but are you doing it right? My couch made into a larger bed by flipping the back rest over the bottom.

Good deal cheap fix. Yeah if they burnt it, it got water inside and the inner cable rusted. You should be OK if the dealer fixes it but it does have a great effect on the shift points so if you find it shifting too late or too early let me know and I'll talk you thru it.

First things first check the fluid level and have a look at the color and give it a sniff test. If it’s full look at the color if it’s brown and smells bad that’s not a good thing. The shift points are mostly controlled by the extra cable that is attached to the throttle assembly so make sure the cable is in place and not broken. It hooks around the linkage and it is not difficult to remove the little cable from the linkage if you have a close look you’ll see how it works. You should be able to pull the cable and feel some resistance it is spring loaded when you get towards the end it will pull a little harder. If it pulls easily it has come undone inside or it’s broken. Also if it is pulled out and will not go back in then the cable needs to be replaced. If all that seems all right then I am afraid you got internal problems. There were some issues with the governor sealing rings on those transmissions but not with mileage that low.

How big is your escape hatch? I'm pretty sure I had to pay about $60 for mine and looked all over for one now I feel mistreated. Good find on your parts all most back to normal drive fast and look for bridges to hide under next time!

Just be sure of your weight, the fake duels extend the leverage on the outside end of the axle and make a small problem worse. I can't tell you how much weight is on the back end of your camper or guess how much you are going to load in it but the rear is rated 1000# no matter what tires you put on it. I gather that the Chinooks are fairly light but the hight will raze the center of gravity it would be nice if they were real duel wheels on a 1 ton. I'm not preaching doom and gloom just safety if it's light enough go for it.

Standard pickup truck 1000# max, it's a pickup rear. It really is not a defect just over loaded, last bit of straw on a camel's back. Best bet 1 ton rear safer and more stable.

There must be 500 ideals on how much air pressure the tires should have. You should be able to get the info from the coach builders ID plate behind the drivers seat on the side wall of the cab. They seem to be all over the place so I guess there really is not a definitive answer. Mine requires 50 psi according to the coach builder both ends they built it so I am inclined to believe them. Weight also is a factor more weight you haul the higher the pressure should be be but not to exceed the tires rated pressure. Air bags should be the same both sides.

Wow what a mess! Hope you have insurance that plastic stuff is expensive. I replaced all of the plastic on mine when I got it a few years ago and I think the a/c cover was close to $200 and the big vent cover was like $65. The sun light and old age got mine. Can you find Intertherm on the web?

Sure hope some one answers wildwood, I have tried to find that stuff too with no luck. Really would like to do mine also.

Hey Texas Toy I've got to come down to Texas! Man I never seen them that cheap if the air lines could get me there (some doubt about that right now) I would bring one back! Wow no rust either some times living in New England sucks just today got mine out of the snow.

I’ve driven both, the 6 does have a bit more power but it comes with a bigger price tag neither one of them is going to win a race with any thing other then a fully loaded tractor trailer any way. The 4 cly. Is bullet proof except for timing chains when they have high mileage the 6 has been prone to head gaskets and oil slugging and is a real pain in the behind to work on. If you are looking at any thing older then 89 it will only have the 4 cyl any way. You can expect around 15 mpg with either engine. If you can afford the 6 go for it they are quieter with a noticeable increase in power and of course a newer motor home wrapped around it. I have seen new water heaters for around $230 (6 gal.) and new tanks for about $200 so it’s pretty simple witch one’s the better choice. Pretty much a snap to put in all though some times the water fittings are pretty well buried under a cabinet or some thing.