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They are out there I bought one from a local RV dealer it was not cheap like $60 but I know some guys on the site have done a lot better then that maybe one will chime in.

No vacuum lines on that trans. Could be as simple as wiring or as bad as trans over haul. $3500 is a very good deal iadoptedatoy is right look it over carefully. Pull the upper bed out and feel for wetness. Look over the overhead for stains make sure the fridge works (quite expencive to replace) heat and A/C (if installed) It probably is a V6 ask about head gaskets and figure on timing belt replacement soon. There are a few threads on this site about what to check on a used MH. I hope it's in really good shape and you get a nice deal they are a lot of fun.

Any one got any sure fire ideals about getting the little %#&*% to move out or methods to keep them out. When I park the MH for the winter I toss some moth balls under the cover that seems to work but when it is parked between trips they just move right in. I remove any food after parking it but they bring there own in. It really is a strange sound acorns rolling a cross the interior roof at night. I was thinking about the glue things on top of the tires, at some point they will need water (they all ready have enough to eat) any ideals? How high do you think a mouse can jump? The coach is fiberglass over aluminum so there are plenty of ways in and it would be imposable to seal. Some times they fall out on a good trip but not guaranteed.

Pretty much all the bigger stores carry Bosh they cost a little more but they are a good brand they have been making them for over 40 years.

OK your exhaust. At some point many states had a law that said your exhaust must exit the rear if people rode in the back it applied to pickups with caps, school buses and the likes. Most of that has changed but you might ask your inspection station if your state has inspections. Will it make a difference? Hard to say in theory it could but I doubt you would ever notice it (if nothing else it would be a lot cheaper to replace). Exhausts can make a difference, headers, no cats, flow thru mufflers personally I would not do it because I am not that much of a hurry and the mileage gains are minimal. I prefer the quieter side of the equation. Fuel economy begins with the right foot driving habits will increase your mileage more then any thing you could ever add to the MH.

If the sensor is bad yes it can affect mileage and a noticeable amount. Generally if they are bad they will throw a code and light the check engine light if you have a volt meter it is a simple check. D/C scale lowest setting check between the green sensor wire and ground once your engine is warmed up and idling . Your voltage should be very active ranging between 0 and 1 volt (generally around .2 to .8) if it hovers at one voltage and does not move much replace it.

Pretty simple job probably would be easer to just replace it your self and be done with it. I might get some arguments but there is no reason you can not use the semi universal one with the crimp on wire you should be able to buy one for around $20 to fit the Toyota and it will take about 20 minutes to replace it. I assume it is bad? They do get lazy with age.

Should fit any Toyota truck with a carb. 4 runners, pickups 2 and 4 wheel drive.

Yeah that is pretty much what the floors are hopefully your pump access won't be right under a cross member for the coach. I was thinking of a boat hatch because once closed they are pretty water proof and can be opened again if nessary. Some are twist lock (no hinge) so it would help with space restrictions. Well I hope you are lucky and have a straight shot to the pump. If the pump starts to run you may even get away with it like I said they are pretty tough pumps not like the ones on an older GM product.

Good deal sounds like you have done your home work. I often wonder why they do not take in account that some day it maybe necessary to deal with the fuel pumps of course the coach maker does not care about truck maintenance. Try hooking your jumper back up and giving the tank a tap with a rubber hammer if it starts running then you know it’s a pump issue. I wonder if you could find some thing like a hatch cover at a boat yard they do make some nice round ones out of plastic.

How sure are you that the pump is bad? They are pretty tough and seldom go bad, there is a lot of wiring and controls that are part of the plan. Have you checked to see if you have power at the pump? You will have to get a friend to help because just turning the key on will not start the pump it has to be cranked.

Good luck have fun and let us know how you made out with the wiring it is an interesting problem that does not make too much sense.

Have you tried the generator to see if the breaker trips on the generator?

What’s the chance that the converter wires are backwards (white/black) or does this thing just plug in? If it trips the breaker with every thing off it still can be the converter wiring because if I’m not mistaken it’s wired to the input side of the main camper breaker. Does this thing have a socket for the shore power that you plug into the camper for the generator or a transfer system? If it’s a transfer system (relay) I wonder if it is back feeding the generator?

Saw a port some where when he first started. He is using a Lexus V8 and Lexus automatic. Bet that was not cheap but I'll bet it will be worth it.

Should not have any effect. Does the extension cord have factory ends on it? Can you plug in you 30 amp cord and adapter to the house? Is the breaker a GFI breaker? All this worked fine at the camp ground so I can't see a problem with the transfer system. Try turning off your MH breakers and see what happens if it works turn them back on one at a time and see if one trips the breaker that will narrow it down.

This is where the Toyota extra seal comes in, There is no real pressure the rear is vented some of the larger stuff has rubber backed gaskets but they never have been a problem area as far as leaks. Most of the paper type gaskets are oil resistant. I knew when I started this there would be controversy I for one am not going to take the axle out to pack the bearings until it is time for brakes and I expect to get 60K or more out of them. I have had just too many floating rears apart to worry about bearing failure the bearings that are inside of the rear never get packed, gear oil is a great bearing lube.

The inner seal keeps the gear oil from getting past the hub and running all over your breaks. The paper gasket keeps it from running all over your wheels. Yes it does require packing when they are new or been cleaned and are dry. I guess my point is for you don't disturb them they will roll for a very long time. If you are concerned about your break lining there is a small plug in the backing plate at the outter edge of the drum that will allow you to see the lining.

That is correct Toyota is the only one I have ever seen with the extra seal. If they are not lubed by the rear how did the oil get in there? Why would Toyota build a rear that had to be serviced when every one else does not? The grease most likely kept the oil from saturating the bearing the one that had the oil in it was doing it's job. The paper gasket is to keep the oil from getting past the axle and running all over your wheels thats where Toyota puts the extra seal. The only way gear oil could be kept out of the bearings would be to have a seal on the axle where it meets the axle tube. There is a huge amount of stress on rear truck bearings grease has no real viscosity where the 90 weight does it can keep the bearings lubed for hundreds of thousands of miles. Ford,Chevy, Mopar and every big truck lubes their bearings with gear oil.

On going about the rears. Yes 30,000 miles on the fronts or brake job what ever comes first.

This could spark a good debate if that is the case it is the only full floating rear made that is. Toyota uses an extra seal that others do not it is not to keep the oil from lubing the bearings it's to keep the oil from coming past the axle. New or clean bearings need to be packed to keep them alive until the oil can reach them.

I guess you mean packed? When I do the front breaks I repack the bearings also, so I guess it's safe to say 30K would be a good figure. It involves removing the caliper and brake rotor so if you are not comfortable with that maybe a shop is in order. If you don't know when or if ever do it. The rears are oiled by the gear oil in the rear (6 lug) and don't need to be packed.

It’s a bit on the expensive but if you never again want to deal with clearance lights switch to led’s. The wiring is daisy chained (only one power feed and ground wire) so if one works they all should. Your wiring maybe a bit different but that generally is the way they are wired. Bad grounds are usual a good place to start, the holder for the bulb leaves a lot to be desired very weak point clean inside of where the bulb fits and the little contact at the back of the bulb. For years I have fought with clearance lights and decided that the led’s were looking real good I bought 10 from the local NAPA parts dealer for around a $100.

Hey Mike great engine for the Toyota. The complete engine weights about 300# (I had a TR8) only draw back is the bell housing it is weird so just about any thing would involve an adapter plate nothing GM made except the Buick 3.5 would fit. Years back we put them in the MGC because the 6 was problematic but it involved some adapter engineering to mate up to the trans. Rover fixed the problems GM had with that engine and they make great swaps.