Maineah

Yep 5,000 miles and a great polish it also takes a lot of power to accelerate the moving parts. Frankly I think the alternator needs to have a larger pulley as it seems to be a common problem.

A long long time. It's a tiny flame.

I think the next time I replace my belt I am going to try an agricultural belt they are designed for large torque loads. They usually are green and often called fractional horse power belts but don’t let that fool you. Mine right now is bow string tight but still slipping at high RPM so it is getting replaced before I take off again. It is not a real good ideal to tighten a belt as tight as you can because it is hard on bearings and in the case of our Toyotas the water pump bearings.

Mark the alternator with a black marker when it's tight I think you will find its the belt and not the alternator moving. Mine does the same thing at high Rpm's. A larger alternator is more likely to slip the belt because it will use more power to charge the batteries and the field is much heaver. (the rotating part)

I put the weather vane things on both of my vents they work great even if you open the windows at speed no smell at all. No matter what the wind is doing they do not back draft. The first one I bought was $30+ and the second one was $18 buy the $18 one it works just as well frankly I think the extra money goes to slick advertising.

Does your transmission have ETC control? It should be able to do 55 with out the O/D on see if that makes a diffrence.

That really looks good I like the covers black too bad you have to climb the latter to have a look too nice to hide

I would like to thank buick and others that had enough fortitude to jump right in and rip and paint and overhaul their MH you guys have inspired me to redo mine. So here is my humble attempt to modernize mine. I have redone all of the counter tops removed the oven built doors painted and recarpeted. I had put wood floors in and did not like them so I went back to carpet. They say a picture is worth a thousand words so here is a few thousand.

Wow that thing is going to look like a trawler!

OK the switch makes sense it does appear to have an electric heater so your switch is not a transfer switch it's a water heater switch. Good plan with the battery now we can move on to what ever problem comes up after the battery replacement. I would price a kit before I replaced the pump either the plastic is cracked (froze maybe) or the diaphragm is bad. As far as the engine there are so many things that could give you problems I would not know where to start perhaps I would remove the air filter and make sure no one has taken up residence mice are very fast. Now have you tested the plug for power with the generator running? We would like to know how the power is transferred from shore power to generator power. Danny we are trying to help you so you have got to help us help you. Greg sent you a picture of a battery switch have you found some thing like that yet?

Well it poured we had some sever thunder storms 40 mph winds and a 1/2" of rain in 15 minutes. No leaks!!

Could you run them down the tank vent? Maybe a "T" in the pipe you could plug once the wires were in place? A water tight strain relief? They seal up really nice they make them for SJ cord should be able to find one that would except some thing as large as RG 8

A/C is all resealed. What a mess some one has had it off siliconed the entire thing down. They put it on every thing completely around the unit to the point the A/C unit could not drain there was what may have been the original gasket but it was only 5/16” thick so the A/C sat right down on the roof no clearance at all. Good thing I have a gadget that I use for wood work it has a scraper blade attachment that swings back and forth very fast I would have never gotten the thing off with out it because the silicone had it firmly attached. My local RV outfit had a gasket kit it comes with two pieces that fit under the rear of the A/C and a 14X14 gasket that is about one inch thick. Thanks for the insite guys now when it rains tonight I’ll find out if I fixed it!

Thanks Tony I sort of figured that I guess I'll try to locate one first then figure out how I'm going to get the cotton picking thing out of the way so I can replace it.

Snake oil fix the leak. Worst case a converter seal and the trans will have to come out. Generally the converters will not leak sitting but if it has thrown oil all over the inside of the bell housing it will drip on the ground. Rear seal, pan, detent cable does it work ok other wise? I can't say weather it is a good ideal to run it in the winter or not I don't because it's buried under several feet of snow by late December and I never seem to have any problems other then the occasional mouse or two.

Has any one had issues with the gasket/seal around the A/C leaking? I have resealed every thing on the roof but the A/C it's one piece fiberglass so I'm reasonable sure it's not leaking. I have no ideal what's under the A/C any one had one off? (it's a Coleman) It will only leak if it really rains (1"+) seems to come out at the same place each time.

A junk yard will probably give them to you but you'll need to find some thing solid to mount them to, plywood won't cut it. Mine came with seat belts that were fastened to a flat metal bar that probably would not restrain a cat. Some states require you to have belts for all on board.

OK, I think what I might do is us an aluminum plate on the rear luggage bar with a mount that can flip over if I run under some thing shorter then the antenna. Regular 6 wire flat phone cord works great for the Yeasu with RJ11 both ends. I have a FT 8900 (4 band FM) in the trunk and the head up front in my Jetta. The cable is straight thru not flipped so it's color for color with a cat 5 and as you say it will leave 2 for the speaker. I ran some #10 THHN to the rear to power it and the 220 (never seem to be able to use both at the same time all though I'm sure some have tried) I was skeptical about the flat phone wire but tried it any way no problem with RF and the audio so I 'm sure twisted pair will work fine. I saw a neat rig for HF antennas that fit around the duallies sort of "U" shaped with a post for a mast that worked pretty good very stable (I think he sort of ran over it) I helped a guy with his RV roof and there on the roof was a NMO antenna mount (with no antenna) through a Skill saw blade that was glued to the fiber glass quite the ground plane.

Good deal! I'm embarrassed to say this but I do not have a two way in my MH. Two in my car and one in my pickup and a twin band on my desk not being used how sad is that. I keep looking at it and saying that should be in the MH! What have you done for a ground plane mine is glass I might just put a half wave on it.

Danny you are going to drive us nuts work on one thing at a time a lot of this stuff is related do the big picture first then deal with the details. Messing around with 230 volts with posssible faults can be fatal. Buy or borrow a good battery.

It is possible you have a missfiring engine, apply the breaks put it in low and give it the gas if it vibrates then you maybe on the right track that will eliminate the drive line.

Yes all rear have some noise and one that is geared that low will have a little more. What mean is a howl or a noise like roller skates on the pavement.

Greg I think the converter is pooched from what I understand nothing is powered when it's plugged in. You know them better then I do maybe you could talk him through a diagnosis on the converter. I understand the workings but haven't a clue as to the wiring scheme. The charge seems to be doing all the work with the generator running. Maybe it is a 230v European charger/converter. Who knows maybe they have disconnected the shore power and just use the generator to power the whole works I still would like to know about the possibility of a back feed.

That is beyond cool! I have heard of that ideal but had never seen it. I do think white would be a good ideal maybe a little toasty in there