fred heath

Best to replace all rubber items. A busted heater hose in an inaccessible area can leave you stranded roadside. Change the belts even if they look good. Save your old belt as a backup. I always carry a spare radiator cap, gas cap, and extra set of ignition wires. Here again, replace old with new and keep the old for spares.

Check the condition of the frame. Toyota's have thin gage frames and if the vehicle has been in a salt prone area there could be structural issues. Feel free to check in to this forum. All of us have encountered most any issues you find. Good luck and welcome. Fred

http://www.reachoo.com/ads/112215645

Guess it proves the old adage"if it's too good to be true.....".

Found this online. Looks good if you live close.http://arkansas.findanyrv.com/recreational-vehicles/1987-toyota-rv.html

Found this on eBay. Looks like it got really hot. Not sure if any coach parts are useable.http://item.mobileweb.ebay.com/viewitem?itemId=160832351272&index=9&nav=SEARCH&nid=94918198322

This is a joke....right?

I put 6 RA08's on in June 2012. Have put about 10k on them. Traction driving through a blizzard in PA was excellent. The only problem I had was the front end was lite. The icy patches were kind of tricky other than that I recommend them. I'm sure any tire where the majority of the weight is on the back would have the same issues.

I have the same two holes on my 20r block. Their also filled. Since I've removed all my pollution controls, their easy to see. They do appear to be some type of mounting surface, but for what I'm not sure. Maybe a requirement for an export country? None of my books show anything there.

Jd- thanks for the link. Turns out I have a side shift L43 trans. Toyota dealer is only supplier for my boot. Guess I'll have to go aftermarket also. Thanks for the help. Fred

I always try to hit major metro areas at night. The beltway around DC is a good example. Having made the mistake of navigating during the daytime hours (toys are not good on 4 lanes of bumper to bumper traffic), the night is definitely less stressful. On the interstates it's mostly truckers who for the most part view us as kindred spirits. I actually make better time at night.

My 1978 cab carries the RN28 ID number. Looked on eBay and seems they have RN 20,25 and 30 replacements but no 28. The boot currently on is aftermarket and in bad shape. Will any boot for my cab work? Do the factory boots screw on or do they friction fit around the hole in the tunnel? Any help would be appreciated. Fred

Have you changed your air filter? I had the same problem with mine. Even though by filter looked good, it was the original. I changed it and the problem went away.

Thanks John. Plan to start with cab and eventually do the whole rig. (hence the gallon). I plan to do all the prep myself then take it to a shop to have it sprayed. My goal is to have the cab match the rest of the rig. The remainder I'll do as time and budget permit. Most of the local shops are looking for $150-175 per gallon. This seems a little high to me. Then again, it's been awhile since I've done body work. Maybe this price is current.

Getting ready to repaint the cab of my 1979 toy. Toyota paint code 030. Any members know of a reasonable supplier. Will need a one gallon can. I'm not sure if this color requires a clear coat too. Thanks for the help. Fred

Found these led's online. Price seems tight. http://autolumination.com/fixtures.htm

Wish I had you guys in my FLP when I was overseas.

Looking again at the front wheels (didn't think to count lugs) I wonder if they could be the inside rims from an old fooly setup. Wish the picture was clearer to see if any old holes or filled holes.

For what it's worth, it sounds like a vacuum leak to me. As John said, check all your hoses carefully. I found on my 20R toy the hoses looked fine, but had gotten brittle from heat and age. There should be slight résistance when you pull them. Also check to ensure no hoses became detached. It only takes 1 to do it. Put a vacuum gage on any manifold line and see how your reading compares to factory specs. I ended up putting a "smoker" on the engine and found a slight leak on the intake gasket. A smoker is a neat tool that some garages have to detect vacuum leaks. I'm not sure if you can rent them or not. This is just my opinion...Not looking to start a major debate.

Looks like he has the 1 ton front wheels. Wondering why do the front and not the back.

Just a footnote for U.S. folks. Due to 9/11 you are now required to have a valid passport to enter Canada. Drivers license alone will no longer work.

Found a 1991 winne 21ft with 92k for $8500. Vehicle located in Fayetteville NC. Posted on the Fayetteville CL. Unable to copy link with my phone. Looks good in the pictures.

Auxiliary Accelerator Pump Diaphragm (AAP) The auxiliary accelerator pump diaphragm (AAP) is located at the front base of the driver's side of the carb. It has three screws and one vacuum line. To check if it is bad, simply pull off the vacuum line and look and smell for fuel. If there is gas in the line, the diaphragm is punctured or cracked and should be replaced. I have heard of people simply plugging the vacuum port and being fine, although your idle/take off may stumble a little when cold. All the AAP does is squirt a little extra fuel into the mixture when the engine is cold. It has no effect on the engine when warm - even when not working properly. The AAP is vacuum operated - when vacuum is applied the diaphragm opens which then adds a little extra fuel. The vacuum is applied by the BVSV which is screwed into a water jacket on the head. This senses the temperature of the coolant and applies or does not apply vacuum to the AAP. A new diaphragm comes with any rebuild kit or can be purchased from the dealer and maybe from some aftermarket parts stores

This pump is specific to the asian 2bbl. carb Steve has on his toy. Its purpose is as I stated. I'm sure it means other things for different applications. The easiest check is to pull the vacuum hose off the unit. If there's raw fuel inside, the guts have to be replaced. I owned 2 Chevettes (76&78) and 1 1981 truck. All used this carb and I never had any problem with performance or mpg. It's a personal choice for me.

JD.... The purpose of the AAP is to add extra fuel to the mix when the engine is cold. It's vacuum operated from the BVSV which senses the temp. of the coolant and applies vacuum if needed. It has NO EFFECT on a warm engine. Maineah hit the first obvious thing to check. These carbs are tricky to rebuild. But if one piece from a $25.00 kit fixes the problem,its better than buying a new carb. I chose the Rochester 1bbl. because it is very easy to work on. They used these carbs in Chevettes,Vega's and 6 cylinder trucks. Never heard of any problems with them. Eventually I'm adding a GM 1 wire alternator and a DUI distributor. My goal is to make my toy bulletproof. If I break down on the side of the road I know I should be able to fix it.