fred heath

Removal of anything attached to the roof could be a huge mistake. The potential for future leaks would be almost guaranteed. Not to mention how it could affect the resale value.

I originally looked at putting the axle below the spring but found the height too extreme. Shackles will lift but I've found 3" of shackle lift gives me about 1.5" of body lift. This is plenty for my rig as I was only looking to remove the sag. Based on my criteria your 6 inch "flip" should give about 3" of body lift in the rear. Not sure how it will affect balance. As far as the front end goes I don't know what to recommend.

What people seem to forget is the toyota drivetrain was engineered to be very economical. The manufactures added body weight to the chassis that it was never designed to carry. For these units to last as long as they have shows a pretty durable drivetrain. I'm not sure how many US manufactured small pickup cab and chassis would do as well.

Keep in mind all these motorhomes sag low in the rear. Increasing the front height will make the rear sag more pronounced. You could end up with better front height only to have the rear dragging.

Why do you want to raise the front?

I fabricated rear shackles for my 1979. Best bang for the buck. Rock auto has good deals for the bushings.

I agree with Montana.

Hi Chris, Thanks for the fb link. I joined but then removed my profile. The site is run by a guy in Idaho. There seems to be little or no organization with the members. What concerned me the most was a picture of him pointing an automatic handgun at the camera. I'm not comfortable with his profile. This is just my observation. The fact that he can enter my profile and see my personal information and friends list is also a concern. I'm sure he's fine. I learned to trust my instincts a long time ago, and something is telling me to stay away.

Check the clearance for your headlights and turn signal lights. If they're obstructed you will have problems. More important, if the radiator can't get enough air for cooling you could have serious overheating issues.

I think if you read the banner over the ad you'll see its left hand drive.

I agree. I stated the same opinion earlier in this thread. If he can get 13-14 he'll be doing very well.

Just to set the record straight my mileage claims are completely accurate. 1. I have no intention of ever selling my mh. 2. My vehicle is 16' in length, 6'10" in height (less wind drag), carbureted, desmogged, no cat, and weighs 4200 lbs. I kept a very accurate road log on my recent 1800 mile road trip. My rig averaged between 22-24 mpg for the entire trip. 16-18 mpg in town. I realize larger mh's will get less mileage,but I'm tired of hearing how 20mpg is dreaming. My vehicle is also a daily driver. I tweek the fuel/air for maximum mpg. One advantage to the older homes is you have no computer dictating your engine performance.

A little historical data. In 1973 the U.S. speed limit was set at 55mph. This lasted until 1987. Toyota, designed its engine and drivetrain to achieve maximum power and economy at this speed. Taking an older toy above this limit will have a negative impact on mileage. If you stay 55 and under, you will see the best bang for your buck!

You can do anything if your pockets are deep enough. The best way to spend your $800.00 is to get your rig in the best possible mechanical shape you can. Forget 20mpg. That is not going to happen. 12000 miles at 10mpg x$3.75 gl for gas will cost you $4500.00 12000 miles at 15mpg x $3.75 for gas will cost $3000.00. For a difference of $1500.00 I'd spend the money getting your existing rig to that 15mpg. number.

Looks like a great deal for $600.00

I'm 6' and my head clears the roof by about an inch. Not only does the floor drop but there's also a recessed area between the roof ribs to allow extra room. It appears to be a well thought out product.

Thought this would be a good link for those of us with older model toys. http://www.popsci.com/archive-viewer?id=fgEAAAAAMBAJ&pg=98&query=galavan

I hate reading ads with 20+ mpg claims. It gives people unrealistic expectations when they buy. I would like to see some REAL records that prove that they are getting that kind of mpg. I track every gallon of gas that I put in my MH so my numbers are accurate Many of the smaller lightweight motor homes get this type of mileage. My 1978 16' with 20R motor averaged between 22-24 documented mpg on a 3600 mile road trip. Around town 16-18 mpg. A good tune-up, proper inflation on tires, and my favorite "synthetic" lube in the drivetrain. There will be several naysayers respond to the synthetic comment, but this I'm convinced added to my mpg. I found 55mph is the best speed for good mileage.

Are you sure its not the control board? Gas valves don't usually go bad.

This is a good link to read. Should answer all your questions. http://www.oznium.com/forum/topic15761

Any commercial grade adhesive should work. Be sure to get one that's rated for indoor/outdoor carpet. It has better moisture resistance. All the big chain stores carry it.

http://www.powertrainproducts.net/ Found this company to be best deal on rebuilt engines. Nice thing is they waive the core charge if old engine is returned within 30 days.

I agree with John. It sounds like a ground issue. See if you have a coach body ground in the area by your water pump. I say this because perhaps the vibration of the pump running makes the bad contact function. This is just a "hip shot". Coach ground locations vary by mfg. They are usually near major electric appliances.

Check the condition of the wire jacket where it passes into the hood. Somewhere you got your 12v hot going to ground. As 12v is considered (low voltage) electricians tape should work fine to cover a bare area on the wire. The fact it was working fine before removal gives you a good starting point.

Derek's our "answer man".