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fred heath

Toyota Advanced Member
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Everything posted by fred heath

  1. Love the "BMW" grill inserts. Definitely adds more value. :-)
  2. Water leaks are a tough call. I would start with a garden hose and the roof area around the sink. Watch the wet area you found and see if any fresh appear. Windows can also leak if the sealant is bad. Windows next, and keep going. I see what looks like a hose connection above the wheel well. Check that area as well. A leaking hose gasket would be enough to do it. Also, check the area inside the fender well. Any cracks or voids would allow water to splash up when driving (in rain). I found 1 leak this way on my rig.
  3. I'm sure, like most Toyota's, they use the same harness for all applications. Maybe for an export country that has some requirement calling for that plug. (Just a guess.)
  4. Jim, If my memory serves me correctly, your generator compartment is configured for the Microlite 2800. That may be the way to go.
  5. The early model toys with the 20R motor and 4 speed transmission are real durable. My 1979 on a 1978 chassis runs great. Keep in mind this vehicle is 37 years old. I would want to see what type of maintenance has been done before I made the purchase. I can almost guarantee you the crank oil seal will go, unless its been recently replaced. I would also plan on replacing the rear axle bearings and seals. A good mechanical check can end up saving you lots of money. Good Luck. Fred
  6. Hi Tom, I just did a full axle swap to a gm 1 ton. My foolie wheels are probably still at the garage in Hampton NH. I would get all four wheels if he still has them. That way they're sure to match. Franks Garage. (603) 926-4900. Ask for Frank
  7. I doubt it has anything to do with the PCV hose. It sounds like your crankshaft oil seal probably let go. This is common in the 20R and 22R engines. Its a pretty simple check, when they go bad they dump oil by the quarts. If you have an automatic transmission, it could be a transmission coolant hose. If the fluid is red in color, its transmission. If black its oil. With oil in the engine, run it and watch the area directly below the crank pulley. If its leaking there, its the seal. Also check the oil filter, be sure its on tight.
  8. First, determine how deep your wall cavity is. You want to find what's known as an "old work box". You need a one gang box. These boxes with with Flipper style compression. No need to anchor to a stud. Common box size is 14 ci. They are 2.75 inches deep. They also make a 1 gang 8 ci. Flanged shallow old work box which is 1.25" deep. The problem is that most GFCI recepticales are 2" deep and wire from the rear, which requires a minimum depth of 2.5 ". Leviton does make a "slim" GFCI that only 1.13" deep. If you don't have the cavity depth to do this, you may want to consider upgrading you circuit breaker to GFCI. This would protect all devices on the branch
  9. I'm thinking contaminated fuel. Did this problem start happening after a refueling stop? I've seen cases where contaminates lay in the fuel bowl only to suddenly float up and block the jet(s). Try running some "Lucas" gas treatment and see if this helps. Just pour into your gas tank. Change the fuel filter at the same time.
  10. Sorry JD, I was using ss for stainless steel. My hubcaps are 14" off a late 70's Mercedes . They look really "retro" on the older homes.
  11. Haha Tim. If I'm going to do a project, I'm going to do it right the first time. Hmmm where to find a piano. :-)
  12. Greetings fellow members. Finally got to post pictures of my axle upgrade. I started a new thread in the projects completed section. I'm really pleased with the results. Fred.
  13. Finally got the chance to update my axle swap. My 1979 Galavan on 1978 chassis came equipped with the 5 lug, semi-float foolie axle. My toy is only 16' long, with a deck extension bring my total weight to 4200# with me in it.The rear dual wheels were unsafe, not to mention the increase in tolls while traveling. Wanting to get away from the duals and being a GM truck guy, I decided to install a 14 bolt 10.5 ring gear 8 lug full floating 1 ton axle. The axle width o/s tire to o/s tire was 74" on the "foolie" dual , and 74" on the single wheel GM. A perfect swap. The GM also came standard with 4.10.1 gearing, same as the Toyota. I did have to upgrade to15" rear wheels as there are no 8 lug 14" GM rear wheels made. I installed 195/70R15 load range D tires which are close in diameter to my 195/75R14 Hankook tires currently installed. I will attempt to upload, in chronological order, the pictures from start to finish. Trying to organize in order. First to last.
  14. It sounds like a back pressure issue. Just for fun, check the cat and I'm guessing new muffler to be sure they were installed correctly. There's an "inlet" and "outlet" for both cat and muffler. You should see a small "arrow" embossed on the metal somewhere. The arrow should point to the rear of the vehicle.
  15. You probably don't want to hear this, but your compartment is set up for an Onan Microlite 2.8. The 2.8 is 24" long x 16.44" wide x 12.25" high. And 113#. Maybe a cost/benefit analysis should be done. Can a good used microlite be cheaper than trying to modify your existing compartment?
  16. Second thought. Not sure what your setup is, but can you extend the adjuster slot to compensate for the larger belt.?
  17. The thread pitch on my engine seems to be 1.25 for all the bolts I've had to replace. Mostly 10mm and 8mm. If its an arm type of hookup, maybe drill straight through and use a nut and lock washer.
  18. Could you drill and tap the receiving hole for 12 x 1.5 ? Then use a straight 12mm bolt.?
  19. Good old fashion mineral spirits does a great job when trying to remove silicone caulking. Put some in a spray bottle and apply liberally. Get some plastic scrapers, take your time it's a slow process. Clean everything up with a TSP/bleach solution. Your ready to go.
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