MAXXFabrication

yes I have a cell, email me for it and I will get it to you or email me your # and I will call you ASAP- just seen you had replied, sorry for the delay. Floor mounted shifters have a small button (Toyota) that is a shift lock over ride where you can push the button in (not electric, mechanical) it will allow the shifter to go into the other gears out of park, I know yours is a column but it would be along the lines of the same thing and if you trace from the brake light wiring to the column you will find the solenoid that unlocks it in the column, it either requires 12 volts or to be grounded to work, more than likely it is bad and not the wires.

it does have the rear conversion, you can tell in the ginormous pic of it. (it blew up WAY big when I clicked on it) I mean the 18 footer V6 does, you can see 6 lugs on the rear wheel

you will get varying opinions on the engines from members here and yes you are correct the V6 is more problematic than the 4 cyl. especially if it hasnt had the headgasket silent recall done. and by now it is way too late to get toyota to foot the bill. before a big debate erupts here with people defendiing the V6, the 4cyl (22R not L) was produced since 81 until 95, with that said do a search on 3VZE and 22R problems, on the web- not here. some people will tell you it was the demographics of the "type" of people who bought them and that why the headgaskets went due to young people owning them and not taking good care of them (Toyota should hire these very same people to defend the headgasket recall which obviously was there fault or they would blame it on neglect and have never spent a cent fixing them) many 22Rs have gone well over 300000 and 400000 miles and not too many v6s have gotten close without major upkeep, expenses and maintenance. thats just my 2 cents, and from what I have read the general consensus across the board when you search the web on these 2 engines.

no problem, I found an 1809 locally, I will post up some pics putting this in a 4runner (same dash) to walk anyone through that does this swap

PM me if you want to sell it, I have a buyer

be safe over there. As linda said, dont use your overdrive with your existing gearing or you will be doing that 4 speed swap sooner than you think

thought I read you in Iraq currently. a manual swap is doable, have to fool the computer. when you get to doing this email me on how.

assuming you are serving in the military- and not sight seeing in that shithole, thanks for what you do.. I am on Ih8mud too!! I have 2 80 series and a pretty cool 83 trail truck if you are lucky you can find 4.30 gears which should be about right to upgrade for you. where you located?

regearing is easy, pulling the axles out is a PITA. you can source gears from a 4runner for 4.875 or 4.556, just read its tag to determine what ratio it has and when you pull it out count the teeth on the pinion and on the ring gear then fig out what the ratio is to verify before you leave the salvage yard.

your master cylinder was causing it to lock up? thats a first to me, usually they just stop making pressure and you lose braking ability.

I stand corrected!! I dont know how I missed what year and engine it was- thats usually left out of most peoples posts and I just assumed

thats really cool of you, really cool. cute dogs too!

could be 4.10, 4.110,4.30, 4.375, 4.556, 4.875. here is a way to break down and read your tag IF the axle came with your truck http://www.brian894x4.com/Gearratiosanddiffs.html not that every Toyotas code was correct with what was actually in it but it is a good reference. you can rotate your tire 1 full revolution and count how many times your driveshaft rotated- yes I know kind of hard so you tape a string to it at the bottom or top (to the driveshaft) and it will wind itself on it allowing you to count how many times it rotated

woo hoo, 20s on our RVs!!! lol maybe hydraulics next....

okay who is going to call monday and find out if they carry them anymore so there isnt a lot of speculation to who makes/still makes compatible wheels for us. I will!!! I already made my 16"s so I will do it for posterity for anyone else looking.

I love them, no problems with typical "dog" issues with shepherds. no running off for no reason, right by your side. He hasnt left my side since I picked him up, bonded like we have been buds for years. @ Derek, good for you- fostering keeps them alive until the right person is found for each dog- awsome of you to do it. @Maineah, thanks, I rescued and fostered a bull mastiff/chocolate lab mix... he was a handful and wouldnt stik around at all. luckily a friend adopted him and they have been happy ever since.

brake light switch, brake fluid level switch, speed sensor, vacuum line. 4 thins to check. posting up what year, model (engine) would be a little more helpful. as well as Totems post, factory or aftermarket cruise control?

LOL, Derek are the search kind!! I own the how to keep your Toyota alive book, too funny

true, I didnt read it that way- but yes could be either way.

it sounds like his brakes are locking up when he applies them, not staying locked up. no amount of wear/tear on a brake line would cause that, if anything it would leak or bulge when applying pressure diminishing the stopping power not making it lock up- dont buy new lines just yet, that like throwing money at it until it its fixed. locate what is bad then replace it. again I am staying with my first prognosis on this, rear brakes arent functioning at all it sounds like. proportioning valve, master cylinder, pads worn too far down.

something is not right somewhere (obviously!) if you bypass it it will remain "locked" power to it "unlocks"it. where are you located at? maybe figure this thing out over the phone worst case scenario. typing back and forth is so counterproductive when you are working on something chasing leads.

awsome guys!!

reread his post( I had to), he did buy 1. good to know you have 1, I would hold onto yours until someone else needs it if they are "hard to source" computers. your computer will also fit 4Runner/truck 2wd V6 1989 August production date to-1990.August production date.

I do quite a bit of wiring as some of you know (engine swaps into varies vehicles) and if you dont already own a wiring manual for your truck, you should. Not the cheap Haynes/Chilton manuals with the black and white stick figure wire drawings but a genuine Toyota Factory service manual. even if you dont work on your own car your mechanic will thank you for loaning it to him when trouble shooting etc. on your trucks, these are very comprehensive- color coded wiring with each system broken down into chapters (like headlights , gauges, engine run system, Etc.) with an introductory layout of each system (wire colors and where they go to) and then an explanation of what each wire should do then lastly the values (resistance or - + amount of voltage) each wire should read under different circumstances. if you are intimidated by wiring dont be, Toyotas wiring manuals will have you understanding all of it in a very short time. (no need to learn all systems, just what you would be repairing!! ) in less than a weekend you could wire an engine from a Toyota to run and function in a different vehicle. Our older manuals easily sourced on Ebay or just searching online, alot of dealers dump their older books and some resale shops pick them up, for about 15-20 dollars more than a corner auto store sells a Haynes/Chilton for you can have a much higher quality wiring breakdown (yes, you wouldnt get all the generic fixit tips for other parts- that why you get a factory manual for those as well!!) of your truck. they are nice to have with an older truck beginning to have wiring gremlins on occasion.

column shift or on the floor? either way I bet it is related to the shift lock solenoid(most likely) , I had the switch (brake pedal to unlock shifter) that activates that solenoid go out on me in a 93 Range Rover on a road trip to Vancouver Canada (from St.louis) in Lincoln Nebraska, test the brake light switch and check to see you have power to that and the the part that unlocks the shift mechanism, usually the system uses a constant 12 volts then grounds when brake light switch is applied. if you need the schematics I can get them for you and what wire colors to test.